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Barrel adjuster on STI (with pic!)(12 posts)

Barrel adjuster on STI (with pic!)Woof the dog
Jan 17, 2004 11:23 PM
what is the best way to build in a barrel adjuster for a cable on my STI shifter. I am trying to figure out how to have it (the shimano type like on rear derailler or the square shimano one) right where the cable housing goes into the shifter. I assume I'd have to ream the shifter's part out to put some kind of nut in so the barrel adjuster screws in/out. Any ideas?

see the attached pic, green is where I want it and have seen it on someone's bike. Red is where I don't want to have it.

thanx a GREAT DEAL

woof
KleinSpoke Wrench
Jan 18, 2004 6:39 AM
My Klein has the barrel adjusters you are looking for. I've never taken the time to figure out what, if any, modifications are necessary to convert an ordinary Ultegra lever.
KleinWoof the dog
Jan 18, 2004 9:31 AM
I am talking about the plastic part of the shifter where the cable housing's ferrule (or whatever its called) sits in. I want to have a cable adjuster right there. As you know, its just an opening of the right diameter for that ferrule. A barrel adjuster needs to be able to turn in/out to increase/decrease tension. So obviously something needs to be inside the sti part i just described to allow it to do that... thats if I understand correctly how barrel adjuster works, and I think i do.

thanx
woof.
KleinSpoke Wrench
Jan 18, 2004 10:25 AM
Yup. I think that I know exactly what you aret alking about. If I had taken the time when my son-in-law was over last night to learn how to use my new digital camera, I'd show you a picture. Anyway, a shifter like the ones on a Klein is what you need.
KleinWoof the dog
Jan 18, 2004 4:36 PM
you mean it is something that Klein makes?
I will check it out.
thanx

woofdog.
I had them also, on a Trek Y-Foil -> Ultegra 9spd shiftersPeterRider
Jan 19, 2004 9:21 PM
Was very convenient to have extra barrel adjusters. But they are more fragile when they are there than on the side of the frame. They were round barrel adjusters as there is on the frame, for the front derailleur, on Treks. But I cannot sell those shifters to you, I put them on ebay last year.

The campy system is bad anyways, it's always bad for the shifting to add breaks housing/adjuster/housing_again. This is why I never put the "gear indicator" available for shimano.

Pierre
Won't workMR_GRUMPY
Jan 18, 2004 3:23 PM
I'm assuming that you have to use an in-line adjustor because that's the way your frame was designed. Your only options are to (1)put the in-line adjustor next to the STI lever (like the photo), or (2) to reverse it and have the adjustor next to the head tube, or wherever the cable stops are. That way, they are a little less noticeable.
If you are carefull with the cable attachment, you can do without the in-line adjustor on the left side. It might take you 10 minutes of clamping and unclamping to get the front derrailler cable tension correct.
Won't workWoof the dog
Jan 18, 2004 4:33 PM
Cannondale provides really sh!tty barrel adjusters that fit into frame bosses. They turn... i know they do, whenever I turn the bars to the top tube (yes, not often), its impossible to get a grip on them cause they are completely round.

And it is possible to make it right at the STI shifter, I've seen it with my own eyes, I wish i had a digital camera to post a pic.

thanx anyway

woof.
Anyone have links to an inline Shimano adjuster?komatiite
Jan 18, 2004 5:10 PM
I'd like to wrap my cables uner the bar tape (personal aestetics) on my Giant OCR1.

Thanks.
Some work is required....divve
Jan 18, 2004 11:33 PM
For my CAAD7 I had to make a custom internally threaded cylinder in order to accept the Campagnolo adjusters. To avoid rotation the bottom part of the cylinder is machined in such a way that it keys into the lower slot opening of the head tube bosses. I also applied a small drop of thread locker on the adjustment knob threads to prevent unwanted adjustment. You might want to explore a similar solution.

(this was a while back when I switched drive trains)
Some work is required....Woof the dog
Jan 19, 2004 8:19 AM
I guess that would work too, and I wouldn't have to mess with the shifter's plastic fantastic parts. What did you use for the threaded cylinder?

Thanx

woof.
Some work is required....divve
Jan 19, 2004 9:20 AM
They're modified T-shafts from a Cannondale Scalpel rear suspension linkage that I had laying around. Not sure it's worth the cost of buying them separately for a barrel adjuster mod. You'll also need a power tool such as a Dremel and carbide bits to work on them as the shafts are extremely hard.