|Chains; 10 sp. Wipperman vs. Campy? Links? Lube?||hdnoise|
Dec 28, 2003 11:53 AM
|Reviews are few but lean towards Wipperman to avoid the Campy tool $$ and remove & replace costs each time, with shifting quality being equal. So - how about adding and/or removing links for either due to cassette changes? Has anyone used an old style chain pin tool on a wippperman? Or does one buy more of the easy links, assuming they are available? Any sources for low price Wippermans and extra links? Any comments regarding the two chains and their management are welcome. I've heard a Mavic 10sp is out there too but can find neither info. nor a source. Also, I use Pedro's Ice Wax on my old friction bikes with good results. How about lube on the thinner, more precise 10sp?
Thanks for the insights...
|discussed over and over....||C-40|
Dec 28, 2003 12:55 PM
|I was quite disappointed with the noise from the wipperman stainless steel 10 speed chain. Took it off after 400 miles and put on a quiet campy chain.
You should never have to adjust the length of a chain to change cassettes. The length should be adjusted to prevent the chain from hanging loose in the little ring and smallest cog. After that, it will accomodate any cassette within the range of the derailleur. None of the 10 speed chain can safely have links added to increase the length.
Joining a Campy chain in the normal manner without a special connecting link or the Campy HD-L pin is a very bad idea. The sideplates of a 10-speed chain are thinner than other chains and the pins have additional peening to hold them in place. If a pin is pushed out to remove excess links, the peening is destroyed. When the pin is pushed back in, there's little to hold it in place.
The only two safe methods to join a Campy chain are to use the HD-L pin, per Campy's instructions or use a Wipperman "connex" link. The HD-L pin can be installed without Campy's special tool.
Be sure to follow Campy's instructions, installing the HD-L pin in the one and ONLY sideplate with undisturbed holes, from the LEFT side. A regular high quality chain tool, like those made by Park tool can be used to install the HD-L pin, but you should drape the chain over the bottom bracket shell rather than the little chainring, to eliminate any tension on the chain while installing the pin. The supplied guide pin should provide adequate guidance for the HD-L pin. The only other trick is to stop pushing the pin in as soon as the enlarged head contacts the left sideplate. Be sure that the pin also protrudes from the right sideplate, per Campy's instructions.
The other way to join an Campy chain is with a Wipperman "connex" link. These cost about $5 each and allow the chain to be joined or removed without tools.
|aside from noise ...||hdnoise|
Dec 28, 2003 1:49 PM
|Did lube quiet it at all? How was the wipper's shifting? I am hard of hearing so if noise is the only issue then ... I am converting to a mid cage (13/29) and am assuming a longer chain will be required. Sounds like a new one is in order, unless the length might be made up with the connex links, which sounds risky... Your info is always good by the way, thanks again.|
Dec 28, 2003 3:24 PM
|I've used the same homemade lube for the last 5 years. A 4/1 mix of mineral spirits and synthetic motor oil. Lubes well and it's keeps the chain quiet.
The shifting with the wipperman was fine, just noisy and it also felt rough at more extreme chain angles. The wipperman does not have the same side plate shape and chamfering as a campy chain, which is probably why it's not as quiet.
The connex link won't add to the length of your chain, it merely replaces an existing pair of sideplates.
Here's how to set your chain length:
Two simple tests will determine if the chain is the correct length. First, it must not hang loose in the little ring, little cog combination. Wrap the chain around the small chainring and through the derailleur in the normal manner. When the ends of the chain are brought together, some movement of the lower derailleur pulley should occur, indicating tension is being applied. Two more links (another inch) may need to be removed, beyond the point of absolute minimum tension, to keep the chain from rubbing on itself as it passes under the upper derailleur pulley. Once this is done, the chain is set to the maximum useable length. Removing additional links will do nothing but reduce the derailleur's capacity. It won't help keep the chain from skipping or jumping.
Second, the chain must be long enough to avoid overextending the rear derailleur when shifted to the big ring and biggest cog combination. If the chain is set to the maximum length as described, it should always pass this test, unless your setup exceeds the derailleur's stated capacity.
If you want to see how much lower pulley movement will occur, without removing the extra two links, shift up four teeth (11 to 15 or 12 to 16). This has the same effect as removing two links.