|Chorus BB click||flying|
Dec 20, 2003 9:39 AM
|This is driving me nuts |
It has happened in the past & I would snug it more & it would go away. This time it won't
I have taken it apart & it looks ok but I cannot get rid of the click. In fact while trying to tighten the drive side/ right side which is usually the fixed side I blew the splines now Im not sure how I will get that cup out in the future.
But still the click on the downstroke of the chainwheel side is there. Any ideas?
|If it were mine.||the bull|
Dec 20, 2003 9:58 AM
|I would take the bottom bracket off however I could.
If the splines were damaged I would first try to get the tool to seat. Campy sucks here(as in other places as well). The spline tool is small and it is hard to get a good grip on the cup. Have a third hand push on the tool as you are tring to get a good "break" on the cup. I have used a air hammer to slowly work stuff out but this is tricky and will take skill. I would be carful this is aluminum and it is easily damaged (as you have allready learned).
Once you get it off toss it.I would not reuse a old buggered up bb.
The important lesson learned here is not to remove a creak by over tighting a bb. It is better if a grease or tefelon tape is used on the treads.
|re: Chorus BB click ...dissasemble and clean completely?||flakey|
Dec 20, 2003 10:07 AM
|Did you take it completely apart? Hold the drive side cup in your hand and then take a plastic mallet and tap or pound on the spindle, this will seperate the fixed cup from the spindle bearing assembly. After you do that, there is an aluminum ring and seal that can be removed from the fixed cup. Seperate all the parts and then clean it like its getting ready for surgery, and then put a light coating of grease on it and then reassemble. Make sure you put the seal back in the correct orientation. While the BB is out clean out the shell the same way.
The Record and Chorus BB's have a lot of crevices that dirt or tiny sand bits can get into causing these types of noises.
If you need to get the BB out with the cup having a broken flange, first start by taking the non drive cup out and then take the plastic mallet and tap or pound on the spindle which will push the complete assembly out, then you can use your PARK bb/lockring tool to remove the cup.
I would also back out or remove the bolt for the BB shell cable guide.
After everything is cleaned and you have a new cup, install it using a torque wrench to the correct spec, so your new fixed cup will last a long time.
|may not be the BB....||C-40|
Dec 20, 2003 10:55 AM
|There are many sources of annoying clicks besides the BB. It could easily be the pedals, cleats, the crank to BB spindle junction, even a rear wheel skewer insufficiently tightened.
I don't agree with Bull about the BB splines. Although you do have to be careful to align the tool properly, a good torque wrench will easily tighten the cup to the recommended torque without stripping the splines. Overtightening will not cure the problem. I've installed a number of these BBs and never had a problem. If the problem really is the BB, then you should try having the right side of the BB shell faced by a good shop. The right hand cup may be working loose due to poor contact with the face of the shell.
|Thanks for the replies||flying|
Dec 20, 2003 11:24 AM
|The splines that are wasted is on the cup itself & yes Im sure it was my fault ;( Will be tough to get anything to seat though. |
No I didn't clean all the parts I just pulled them out & reinstalled. I will try that as soon as I get a new cup.
I am 99.9% sure it is the BB clicking as it has happened in the past. This is a Look KG381i btw
The BB was faced when I bought the frame ( with the BB installed )
Dec 20, 2003 11:26 AM
|PS: it probably is not a good idea to ride with it clicking loud is it? Most of my ride is climbs so I need to stand & then it really clicks. I am afraid to damage the BB shell itself. Is that possible or am I worrying needlessly? |
|better fix it...||C-40|
Dec 20, 2003 11:58 AM
|Well, you better get a new BB and hope you can get the old one out.
If The BB shell was faced, then my only suggestion is to clean up the threads on the BB shell first, apply some grease to the threads and try again. Be sure to use a torque wrench and tighten to spec.
Same thing goes for the crank arms. Campy advises to clean the mating surfaces and install the arms WITHOUT grease. Cranks arms don't take a lot of torque. Many cranks have been ruined by over-torqueing.
If the clicking doesn't disappear, then you can keep searching.
Dec 20, 2003 1:08 PM
|You have to admit that the splines on a Shimano bracket are desigined better than the Campy ones. There is more surface area and the tool grips better.
When I was talking about the "third hand" I am giving advise on how to take it off not put it on. He is going to have to make sure the tool does not pop out and mess things up even more.
Dec 20, 2003 2:36 PM
|too late ;( |
The poping out tool is what wasted that cup ;)
Man-O-Man I am wondering now how I am going to remove it.
Not like there is much of anything else to grab there.
I may have to use a punch? Try & spin it out....arrrrgggg
This is looking like a slight problem ;0
Dec 20, 2003 3:29 PM
|you could get a channellocks and put it on the outside of the cup, remember its reverse thread so it will loosen towards the front of the bike. If you try this I would wrap your BB shell in some kind of tape (electrical?) so you dont scuff up your frame. Another option would be to build up the tool or cup with aluminum foil tape. If you took my previous advice and removed the spindle assembly, you could try tapping, while unthreading at the same time, it out with a punch and hammer.
Dec 20, 2003 4:50 PM
|Yes I think the tapping is going to be the only way. exposed area on the fixed cup of this 10sp BB is like less than 1/8" |
Not much to grab with a channel lock.
Although when the new bb comes & I take this apart again I may be able to pound the campy tool into the damaged cup enough to get a bite & remove.
In any case thanks for all the tips
|Here's how to remove it, and how to get rid of the click||Kerry Irons|
Dec 20, 2003 6:05 PM
|Assuming that the BB is actually OK, the click is from dirt/drying out of the BB threads (as already noted by many) OR from the BB axle tapers getting a little bit of corrosion on them. While many argue against greasing the axle tapers, I've done this for 35 years with no problem. If you handle the axle tapers with greasy fingers, that will be enough to prevent the corrosion and associated clicks. For removing the right BB cup, follow the advice on tapping out the axle/bearings, and then use that same mallet to tap your BB tool into the splines. Unless you've totally ground out the inside of the cup, you'll more than likely get the tool in there firm enough to remove the cup easily. You don't really need to tap the axle/bearings out to make this work, but it will make the job a bit easier, and you likely want to separate the parts anyway. When you reassemble everything, start with clean parts, and grease all metal to metal contact surfaces. Torque the cups to spec (50 nm) and you should be click free. Also, if the clicking is from the BB cups or the BB axle/crank interface, you are not doing damage by riding. If the click is from the bearings themselves, then you are doing damage, but it's too late anyway, since the unit is damaged already. Riding with a failing BB will not cause damage to any other part of the bike unless the thing gets so wobbly that your cranks are noticeably moving.|
|Here's how to remove it, and how to get rid of the click||flying|
Dec 21, 2003 10:27 AM
|Thanks Kerry I will try those things when the new BB gets here. Interesting about the drying out of the BB threads. |
Never considered that to be a possible problem.
|Here's how to remove it, and how to get rid of the click||StmbtDave|
Dec 23, 2003 2:59 PM
|Once the BB unit is out, you should be able to run a bolt through the BB tool with a nut and washer on the inside of the cup. This will help hold the tool in the cup while you apply gentle torque to remove it.
|How to make it go away-||Leroy|
Dec 23, 2003 4:40 PM
|click on www.branfordbike.com and ask Tim to send you a Phil Wood bottom bracket.|
|Leroy's got the right idea.....||BIGBOB|
Dec 24, 2003 5:24 AM
|The best route for a sure cure. I have a Daytona groupo and had trouble with clicking in my ACH bottom bracket after about 1500 miles. The question was replace the ACH BB yearly or buy the only other alternative, a Phil Wood BB. A little pricey but worth every penny. Purchased mine from Licktons and saved a couple of bucks over Branford. After taking out my old bottom bracket I found the fit on the LH cup to be a little generous and I believe the clicking I heard was from the bearing hitting the BB cup every time I pushed on the LH pedal.