|Rebuilding - what's the secret to lace Revolution spokes ?||PeterRider|
Nov 21, 2003 7:08 PM
|yep, after killing a rim-set (see post below), I want to try building with revolutions. What's the secret to eliminate the twist ? with 14-15 it was easy, with 15-16 slightly more annoying but I got a good result, so I expect the revolutions to twist even more. Usually, if I tighten one turn, I go back 1/4 turn, and that's pretty much it.
|re: Rebuilding - what's the secret to lace Revolution spokes ?||Juanmoretime|
Nov 22, 2003 3:36 AM
|Pierre, I've built several wheels succussfully using Revolution spokes. I never would back off to eliminate twist. I would stress releave the spokes every tiime around the wheel and would only tension the wheel a 1/2 turn at a time and a 1/4 turn as I was coming to almost full tension. My hands would actually be sore from sqeazing the spokes together after I compleingted building the wheel although the results were a wheel that ran true without having to brush upthe trueness of the wheel for many thousands of miles.|
|re: Stress Relief - lots||Mike Prince|
Nov 22, 2003 6:42 AM
|When I build w/ revo's, I usually stress releive about 2x as much as with 14/15 spokes. I use the handle end of a big adjustable wrench, inserting it where the spokes cross and taking out the twist. Saves your hands and does a much better job too. Don't worry about harming the spokes - it won't happen.
Have done 2 wheels this way this year and have not had to re-true yet.
|Thx - I think I've seen my LBS do it like that||PeterRider|
Nov 22, 2003 2:09 PM
|I've had a look at the wheel he was building a bit later on, that was really nice work, it was dead true&round :-)
|What are you actually doing with this method?...||TFerguson|
Nov 22, 2003 2:56 PM
|On the "pull two pair of spokes" method, which I use, you are doing nothing but relieving the high stress points within the structure of the metal (Jobst Brandt). The twist has to be taken out each time you turn a spoke by making sure there is equal torque in both directions.
With the "push the rim sideways" method you are loosening the spokes on one side to allow them to untwist (the pinging noises) and at the same time tightening the spokes on the other side to relieve the structural stresses.
What is the procedure with the wrench handle and how does it take out the twist? Sheldon Brown also does this with a crank arm, but I don't get what you are actually doing.
|Don't use alloy nipples||bimini|
Nov 24, 2003 5:47 AM
|But if you must, make certain to use antiseize compound on the thread. (even with brass nipples the anti seize isn't a bad idea)
I'm not a fan of alloy nipples. I've always had problems with twist. Alluminum oxidizes and the oxidation "glues" the nipple to the spoke thread. The antiseize compond eliminates this unless it gets washed off.
Personnally, I would rather have the 40 gram weight penalty of chromed brass nipples. But, if you are going with revolutions weight must be the primary concern.
I read that you can clip a clothes pin to the spoke and watch for wind-up when you make adjustments, I just go by feel. If it starts to wind up, stop, and put a pliers on the spoke to keep it from rotating. You may wish to wrap it with a shop rag or something to keep from maring the spoke.
Nov 24, 2003 9:23 AM
|have to check for the lengths (didn't do my math homework yet), but if it fits, I'll order the spokes from Performance. And they send them with alloy nipples I think.
Usually I always put a drop of thick oil at each nipple. I do it to help with any creaking noise, but also I guess it helps to protect against oxidation. Anyway, in SoCal I don't ride in the rain so often...
|hemostats might work to show twist, too nm||DougSloan|
Nov 25, 2003 8:33 AM
|Radio Shack sells bags of bitsy alligator clips nm||curlybike|
Nov 25, 2003 9:51 AM
Nov 24, 2003 6:28 AM
|I build almost exclusively with Sapim Laser spokes, which are 14/17 like the DT Revolutions. What I do is once the wheel is laced, but before you start tensioning, put a dot on every spoke with Sharpie (permanent marker) on one side. (if you use black spokes you could try white-out instead)
As you tension up the wheel, watch the dot. If it rotates, the spoke is twisting, so you back off the get the dot back on the side. Using this technique, I can be fully confident that there is no twist in the spoke. I also stress-relieve, but I wouldn't rely on that to remove all of the twist.
One other hint is to go to each spoke right near the hub and press it with your thumb so that it lies flat against the flange. Hope this helps. -Dave