|SRAM chains good for Ultegra drivetrain?||dgangi|
Oct 26, 2003 6:08 PM
|My Fuji road bike has the Ultegra drive train and a Shimano chain. For me Shimano chains have been absolute crap -- they stretch very easily -- so all of the miles I am putting on my road bike will certainly mean a chain replacement in the near future.
SRAM (Sachs before they were purchased) chains are highly regarded in the MTB world as the best chains on the market. They are lighter, stronger, and easier to service than the Shimano counterparts. I am currently running a PC89 on my mountain bike (8 speed) - my friends who have 9 speed bikes run the PC99.
Do these chains work well on the Ultegra 9 speed drivetrain? Any shifting problems? If the SRAM chains shift smoothly on the Ultegra 9 speed drivetrain, then a chain upgrade is definitely in the foreseeable future.
|re: SRAM chains good for Ultegra drivetrain?||glia|
Oct 26, 2003 6:19 PM
|I am using a PC89 hollow-pin on my Dura-Ace drivetrain. 2000 miles no problem. I assume that you'll be fine. Very light as well and it comes with the link so you can more easily clean your chain.|
|re: SRAM chains good for Ultegra drivetrain?||rfrancisco|
Oct 26, 2003 7:22 PM
|Haven't use a Shimano chain for 6 years. SRAM chains are the way to go, easy to clean and service. I use the PC89 on my road bike (9speed Campy) and my mt bike (8speed XT).|
|re: SRAM chains good for Ultegra drivetrain?||soulsurfer104|
Oct 26, 2003 8:56 PM
|ive got an ultegra drivetrain goin with a sram chain. im using whichever sram chain it is that has the hollow links.....not drilled-out plates, but the one where the links are hollow. seems to work for me.|
|re: SRAM chains good for Ultegra drivetrain?||divve|
Oct 27, 2003 12:02 AM
|The better chain in my opinion is the Shimano CN-7701. It's the XTR/DA chain introduced about 2 years ago with center punched pins. Shifts better than SRAM+Shimano for sure. I haven't found any durability problems with this level of Shimano chain. As for servicing, I fail to see why it's necessary to remove a chains unless you're replacing it.|
|remove chain for cleaning||glia|
Oct 27, 2003 5:56 AM
|there certainly is an advantage to cleaning your chain when removed. Just throw it in a little platsic bottle with chain cleaner and soak it for an hour, wash off put back on and lubricate.|
|still don't see the advantage...||divve|
Oct 27, 2003 11:46 AM
|My chain cleans during lubrication. In case of mud on my MTB I hose it down with water first then lube it. Altogether takes less than 10 minutes.
...it's funny how second tear manufacturers always seem to find solutions to problems that don't exist.
|How can you not see the advantage??||dgangi|
Oct 27, 2003 4:18 PM
|Removing the chain from the bike is not only sensible for easy cleaning -- it's MUCH easier to soak the chain than to spray degreaser on it which can have nasty side effects when the overspray gets on parts you don't want to degrease -- it's also essential for doing work on the front or rear derailleur.
To replace any parts on a derailleur (whether to clean or replace), you have to remove the chain. With a Shimano chain that means pulling the pins with a chain tool. With the SRAM, you undo a quick link (5 seconds). And ressembly with the SRAM is another 5 seconds. The Shimano needs reassembly with the chain tool as well.
Whenever you take a chain apart by pulling the pins, you run the risk of having a weaker link upon reassembly...as well as dealing with a frozen link once the pin is reinserted. You can usually free up a frozen link with a small screwdriver, but who needs that nonesense?
The SRAM linkage is not a solution to a problem that didn't exist. If you do any regular maintenance on your bike you will come to appreciate the removeable power link on the SRAM.
|still can't see it...||divve|
Oct 27, 2003 11:45 PM
|First of all I hardly ever have to degrease a chain. The lubes I use clean and lube simultaneously. After I'm done the chain is like new. If I ever have to degrease (for instance to remove the Shimano factory gunk) I use a Park Tool chain cleaner with some Bio Degrease. Again, just a 5-10 minute job instead of soaking for an hour or longer. No mess either.
Regarding work on a derailleur, the only real work I have to do is to clean and grease the jockey wheel bearings sometimes. I can do that by removing one side of the pulley cage while the chain remains installed. I only remove the complete dérailleurs when they're destroyed or when I get bored with them and need a shiny new one....still can do that with the chain installed if necessary.
When I join a chain I almost never experience a tight link. To fix a tight link is quite easy however. All you have to do is very slightly twist your chain tool with the chain inserted in the link holder bit. Does the job every time. Sounds like you make a lot of work for yourself. Maybe you should try a Shimano chain, eh? :)
|I love them....||xcmntgeek|
Oct 27, 2003 7:52 AM
|SRAM chains are the way to go. I've been running a PC-99 on my DA srive train for about a year. I went back to a DA chain for 2 weeks, it promply broke (same thing happened w. my mtb) and I went back to SRAM. I've never broken a SRAM chain and they shift great. I've also run a PC-89 with an Ultegra drive train with great results.|
|I love them....||dgangi|
Oct 27, 2003 10:00 AM
|Good to hear that SRAM chains work well on an Ultegra drivetrain. I've sworn by SRAM chains on my MTB for years (even when they were Sachs). That power-link feature is the shiznit - makes maintaining the chain sooooo easy!
Shimano, in my opinion, makes the crappiest chains on the market. Believe it or not, I used to get more mileage out of KMC chains on my MTB than the Shimano 8-speed IG chains. I'm a fairly light rider, but for some reason my Shimano chains would stretch out after 1 season!
|A related question.||Spoke Wrench|
Oct 27, 2003 8:27 AM
|My Klein suffers from the chain rubbing the big chainring if I'm in the small chainring and any of the smallest three cogs. It has been suggested to me that the slightly wider Sram chain may be responsible. I confess that I haven't tried using a Shimano chain. Does anybody have pertinent personal experience?|
|No, but I've thought along the same lines.||OldEdScott|
Oct 27, 2003 9:03 AM
|I have a little tickle of chainring rub already, and have been afraid to switch to Sram for fear it would get worse.|
|Sounds like another problem...||dgangi|
Oct 27, 2003 9:54 AM
|What crankset does your Klein have? Was it set up factory or aftermarket?
Your problem sounds like more of a design issue with your crankset/BB than the chain itself. Maybe your bottom bracket is too narrow for the crankset? That would cause a more severe angle between the smaller ring up front and the smaller cogs in back, thus making the chain rub...
Nobody in the two teams I ride with have them problem you describe.
|I had the exact same problem with my Trek2300||innergel|
Oct 27, 2003 2:18 PM
|Switched back to an Ultegra chain, and all is well. Agreed that the slighty wider SRAM chain was the culprit. But when I was riding the SRAM chain, I had no problems other than the annoying rubbing in the three smallest cogs.
BTW, bike is full Ultegra.