|Where can I buy D-Ace or better grade bearings ?||PeterRider|
Oct 20, 2003 5:10 PM
|I was told that Osh, Home Depot and places like that don't have as high grade bearings as that... where can I buy ? How much do they cost ?
PS: don't really want to hear "your LBS can order them for you"
Oct 20, 2003 5:28 PM
|most towns have 'em. check your phone book. bring your old ones in and see if they can match in a U.S. or German made bearing. I do it all the time for old cars and motorcycles.|
|What grade is that?||Kerry Irons|
Oct 20, 2003 5:34 PM
|I've never seen published numbers on DA bearing quality. The best place to go would be a bearing supply shop - check your yellow pages. The challenge might be in getting a small quantity, but you can always ask. I used to buy grade 10 bearings in quantity, which are the best available in general commerce.|
|re: Where can I buy D-Ace or better grade bearings ?||lithiapark|
Oct 20, 2003 7:43 PM
|Loose Screws Small Bicycle Parts, has grade 25 ball bearings. Several sizes, I don't know which size DA takes. Web site order only I think, but they are in my home town, Ashland, Oregon, but I don't know if they have a store or not.|
|BikeToolsEtc.com has Grade 25 in stainless steel. (nm)||TFerguson|
Oct 21, 2003 2:52 AM
|$2.90/100 at www.loosescrews.com; just bought some.||Silverback|
Oct 21, 2003 8:51 AM
|That's Grade 25, right? Nashbar used to carry them, but quit a couple of years ago. I just bought four or five sizes from Loose Screws a couple of weeks ago.|
Oct 21, 2003 9:01 AM
|I believe I read somewhere that an important difference between Dura-Ace and Ultegra is that Shimano measures each bearing and bins out the ones within a tighter tolerence than their bearing manufacturer can provide. These go in Dura Ace
|Bradford bike sells grade 25||bimini|
Oct 21, 2003 11:57 AM
|Which is the same grade used in all of Campys hubs.
I use to work for a bearing manufacturer.
Make certain all the balls come from the same lot of bearings. Most bearing houses know this so they do not mix lots. I assume the bike shops know this also.
Grade 25 means that each ball is perfectly sperical within 25 millionths of an inch. The average diameter of all the balls within a lot must not varry by more than 25 millionths ball to ball.
However, the average diameter must only be within 100 millionths of the nominal size listed. This is why you should get all the balls from the same lot.
When changing bearings, change all the balls in the race with fresh bearings from the same lot.
Don't use stainless balls if the old ones were carbon or tool steel. Stainless is softer than hardend carbon or tool steel.
Best to buy the bearings from Campy, Shimano, or a bike place. That way you know it's the right material and grade for the application. Cost slightly more but you don't have to worry as much about trashing the races in those expensive hubs.
|Isn't softer better?...||TFerguson|
Oct 21, 2003 1:26 PM
|I would rather wear out bearings than cups/cones.
|Isn't softer better?...||bimini|
Oct 22, 2003 11:38 AM
|Once the balls start to fail they gaul which causes all sorts of peaks, valleys and roughness on the balls. The high spots cause stress concentrations (all the force one small spot verse being evenly spread across an oval shapped area on the race) This results in failure in the races which again start to gaul. In bearings the harness of all the surfaces need to be equal for best results.
Bearings need to have an extremely hard surface since all the force is concentrated in a small area. The best material for bearings that see impact are case hardened carbon steel bearings. The case hardened surface is extreamly hard for extended bearing life and the inner core is relative soft and will absorb impacts without cracking the ball in half. Not sure what Campy and Dura Ace uses but the company I use to work for supplied the bearings to Schwinn. They used the case hardened bearings but a cheaper grade 100 bearing which would run a little rougher than the 25 but still wear well.