|Campy 10 speed help||10speedfiend|
Oct 19, 2003 2:23 PM
|Ok, I have over 500 miles on my Centaur 10 speed drivetrain, and I am having an issue. The rear derailuer functions perfectly when I am in the big ring. Very crisp and percise. When I am in the small ring the shifting is sloppy. I do get into the gear I want, it's just not what I expect from Campy. My first thought is to shorten the chain. My thinking here is if the shifting is great in the big ring, it must mean the derailuer works better when it's cage is pulled forward. My other thought is I need a wider BB because it is a crankset spacing problem. Anybody have any helpfull input?
|Sounds like things might be loose, or the B screw needs a tweak||Kerry Irons|
Oct 19, 2003 5:27 PM
|Check the derailleur to be sure that there is not play between the pully cage and the body, or between the body and the frame. Both are tightened with a 5 mm allen wrench, though you have to remove the inner cage and upper pulley to get at the cage/body bolt. Otherwise, consider adjusting the B screw, which changes the angle of the body relative to the frame. Assuming that chain is clean and lubed, no tight links, and that you have properly adjusted the cables as they have settled in. To check the latter, the pulleys should line up dead centered with the plane of each cog. From this point, try tweaking the cable adjusters one way or the other and see if that helps.|
|Thanks Mr Irons, I'll give that a try -nm-||10speedfiend|
Oct 20, 2003 12:59 AM
|don't shorten the chain...||C-40|
Oct 20, 2003 6:02 AM
|Chain length should never affect shifting precision, if it's set properly. Shift into the little chainring and smallest cog. If the chain has enough tension to move the lower pulley on the rear derailleur down slightly, preventing the chain from rubbing on itself as it passes under the upper pulley, then it's not too long. Usually there will be a 1/2" to 3/4" gap between the upper and lower sections of chain in this position. Shortening the chain will not improve shifting.
You don't mention a difference between upshifts and downshifts. If the shifts to smaller cogs are not precise, then the problem is usually excessive cable friction, indicating a lubrication and/or cable routing problem.
|re: Campy 10 speed help||divve|
Oct 20, 2003 6:44 AM
|I agree with C-40 here. It's probably cable friction however unlikely it seems. It may also affect shifting to a larger cog as well, because the derailleur can't snap back sufficiently to an index point after a shift is made. Also, check the upper derailleur pulley lateral movement smoothness. I had similar problems and it turned out it was a combination of both excessive BB shell and upper pulley lateral friction. Campy appears to be quite sensitive to this issue in comparison to Shimano.
Don't worry about a slight amount of play in the body and pulley cage assembly. It's by design and apparent in even a brand new derailleur. Just make sure the bolts are tight as mentioned (should be obvious).
|re: Campy 10 speed help||10speedfiend|
Oct 20, 2003 9:21 AM
|Where should I look for friction points, beside the obvious nylon doohicky under the BB? My sloppiness comes as I try to shift up the cassette towards the 23T. I am also getting quite a bit of rattle when I am down towards 8-9-10. Should'nt I be able to use all 10 spds in the small ring up front? I now not to use big ring 1-2-3-4ish, but shouldI hear rattle in the small ring? (no its not the front d-railuer. Check ou the pic.
|re: Campy 10 speed help||divve|
Oct 20, 2003 10:11 AM
|By the looks of it you have used the full length of the rear derailleur cable housing? This is a good thing. It makes adjustment less touchy.
Your symptoms sound exactly as mine did. If I had to make an educated guess I'd suspect the nylon cable guide under the BB shell. Regular grease on the cable there might help but by no means is optimal. The only grease that really smoothed the sliding action in my case was thick axle bearing grease. It's almost solid and very tacky, which makes it stay on the cable where friction is the heaviest. Alternatively you can use the metal Campy cable guide, but your BB shell will require to have a hole in the center bottom for the mounting bolt.
No, you can't always use all 10 gears in the little ring. On many bikes the chain will "tick" occasionally against the larger ring when in the bottom last two or three smallest cogs. You don't want to be using those combos anyway in my opinion. On the other hand you should be able to use all 10 gears in the rear when in the large ring. It won't rattle or anything in the big-big combo but you can hear that it's sort of straining the chain due to the extreme angle.