|When it is time to change tires?||al0|
Oct 16, 2003 10:40 AM
|How to determinethat tires are weared enough to be changed ?Really I ask not aabout last point when there is no other way as to change tires, but concerning fearlist point when change of tires are reasonable?|
|Realistically? Up to you and your wallet.||jw25|
Oct 11, 2003 4:21 AM
|I can't give mileage figures, as they vary depending on your weight, riding style, road condition, inflation pressure, etc. Personally, I go by looks - when the rear tire starts to look very worn, usually flat in the center, or the casing on either tire gets scuffed or frayed, I'll replace the tire.
Then again, I have a lot of tires, and several bikes, so there's a good chance I'm tossing out good rubber. I'd rather have the confidence of fresh rubber than be that frugal. After all, tires are the only part of your bike that touch the road. To me, that's reason enough to spend a little extra on good rubber, and take care of them.
In truth, though, you could run the rear until casing started showing through the tread, though. The front typically goes for age-related reasons long before it wears significantly, which is a fine excuse to buy tires in 3's.
|re: When it is time to change tires?||filtersweep|
Oct 16, 2003 2:20 PM
|I use Pro Races, and they never flat until they need to be changed|
|re: When it is time to change tires?||12x23|
Oct 16, 2003 3:29 PM
|I ride Mich Pro Races until I see the casing .. it begins to show in a few spots around the tire. That tells me I've drained it.|
|Depends a bit on your application||Kerry Irons|
Oct 16, 2003 4:41 PM
|If you're racing and/or pushing things to the limit on every ride, then you want to be conservative. Otherwise, you can ride them until the casing just starts to show through on the rear. Tires wear out through power transfer, so unless you're doing a lot of heavy braking, the front tire won't "wear" at all - it will just get old. When you get a new tire, put it on the front, move the front to the rear (best rubber on the front at all times). After "aging" on the front, tires will get about 60% of the mileage they would have gotten if they had been put on the rear new. In my experience, Michelins get about 2K miles under my 180 lb/82 kg weight, as do Conti GP 3000 and Vredestein. Conti GP (not available much any more but still made) get about 2.5X that. This is because the Conti GP puts more rubber in the tread at the same weight tire as a Michelin or Vred. The GP 3000 is a lighter tire, and that means less rubber in the tread than a GP.|
|Depends a bit on your application||al0|
Oct 17, 2003 6:18 AM
|It clear that I
to replace tire if if casing starts to show through but are there some reason to replace tire before this, e.g. if thread pattern (on patterned tire) is completely weared out?
I have some feelings that under wet condition bike becomes less predictable with tires with this stage o wearing. Or is this just my imagination? It is not cost-related problem as I mostly use Conti Sport 1000 (9 EUR per tire) and Conti GP (13EUR per tire).
Thanks for responces
|Ignore siping||Kerry Irons|
Oct 17, 2003 6:00 PM
|The "tread" in a modern road tire is mostly (entirely?) for looks. The wearing off of the pattern will mean nothing as far as traction, wet or dry. Some would claim that a "squared off" tire affects handling, but on the rear this is hard to see since the tire is flexing all the time anyway and the rubber compound is not that hard compared to the pressure in the tire. And WHERE do you get Conti GP tires for 13 euro? That is REALLY cheap! The best price I've seen for a GP 3000 is about double that.|
Oct 18, 2003 12:22 AM
|I have read that thread on bike tires is "for look" many times, but when I ride tires with weared thread in really wet conditions I have feelings that bike is much more slippery then with new tires of the same type. I amn't sure is it for real or just my fevered imagination. So I asked.
Regarding cheap GP - this is plain GP, not GP 3000. Later really cost double. I'm not sure if source would be valuable for you as it is in Germany and delivery would it up all price difference, but anyway - http://www.profirad.de (Bereifung/Rennrad/Continental).
The exact price is not 13 EUR, but 13.50, but, I guess, it doesn't make big difference.
|Check the outer casing ...||edmundtan|
Oct 16, 2003 8:44 PM
|... and if you see any signs of separation along the seam, it's also time to replace.|
|Tires die more than one way.||dzrider|
Oct 17, 2003 6:08 AM
|Sometimes it's tread wear and others have covered that subject very well.
More often there's a cut deep enough to weaken the tire causing a small bump. Sometimes bumps just grow, like a saddle sore, for no apparent reason. I don't continue riding tires with bumps on them.
Some tires start getting flats. Time for a new tire.
The heavier tires I use for commuting sometimes last long enough to show signs of dry-rot. I change the tire as soon as I see it.
|Just like getting directions from a Redneck...||Matno|
Oct 17, 2003 7:21 AM
|Just change them one ride before you get a flat or lose control in a corner...
(You know, "hang a left when ya get to where the old oak tree used to be, then turn right two stops before ya get to Mabel's house...")
Personally, I usually change tires when I "feel" like they need to be changed. Kind of like the surgeon's adage: "When in doubt, cut it out!" Or in this case, "When in doubt, throw them out!"
|Don't get hurt for the sake of being "cheap"||AJS|
Oct 19, 2003 7:59 AM
|This question never made a lot of sense to me: ie, why try to save a relatively small amount of $ trying to get a couple hundred extra miles out of a nearly spent tire?? Taking a chance on a blow-out, easy flat, or loss of traction - especially at the high speeds approched in road biking - is worse than just being "cheap & greedy". It's completely stupid. |
I install new rubber when a tire shows obvious signs of age (dry-rot, cracking, bulging) or wear (flattened tread, sidewall damage). I try to strike a happy medium where I've gotten the most mileage from the tire before it becomes dangerous. But also I don't wait until the casing starts showing through the tread - that's just idiotic.
Hey - it's YOUR neck. Don't wait until you have a serious problem before you buy new tires.
|What exactly is the risk?||Kerry Irons|
Oct 19, 2003 4:53 PM
|I've been riding tires till the casing just starts to show for roughly 40 years, though it was harder to do with tubulars since they usually failed by some other means first. Not once have I had a sketchy situation due to worn tires. Rough calculation would suggest that I've saved well over $500 in current $$ by pushing the tires an "extra" 15% on mileage (250K miles total, so 40K miles extra = 20 tires). I guess I'm an idiot.|
|Ahh, someone as CHEAP as I am||bimini|
Oct 20, 2003 6:13 AM
|I ride until it wears through and blows. Fortunately, it is always the rear one that wears out first and blows. Could be dangerous if it were the otherway around.
I do rotate the front & rear halfway through the life of the set when the rear starts to develop a flat spot. Then when I totally wear out the rotated rear tire and blow the tire due to no more rubber on the tire I put a new (or slightly used) set on the front and back.
I do keep freash rubber on my race set and pull them off when they start to get flat section (and then use them on my training wheels until nothing is left)
Yes, I am CHEAP but I should be able to retire in a couple of years at the age of 50 (if I live that long).
|I guess we're||12x23|
Oct 20, 2003 9:30 AM
|Three Stooges .. I mean Idiots. I see I'm not alone here. ;-)
It's not like I ride the tire until the tube is exposed, or I'm riding silk or cotton tubbies. I give my bike a wipedown after every ride which also includes inspecting the tires for punctures, etc. When I see the casing exposed anywhere along the circumference of the rear tire I toss it. I've been doing this since 1988 without incident.
|I like to see casing...||satanas|
Oct 21, 2003 5:23 AM
|As an experiment I once used a Specialized Turbo (can't remember which one) until there was casing showing all the way around. This was fine for a couple of months, and I was going to leave it on until there was a problem, partly out of curiosity to see how it would fail.
Unfortunately I was working in a bike shop at the time and got sick of being hassled about it (by customers) so never got to use it all up...
If the casing is puncture resistant, there's no real need to replace the tire just because there's no tread!