Jul 18, 2003 8:04 AM
|They say on one of their little tips that you should replace your cassette every time you replace the chain. I could see every other or even every third time, but not everytime. Does anyone replace theirs every time?|
|re: Bicycling.com says...||caniaitalia|
Jul 18, 2003 8:52 AM
|um yeah dude where have you been? we all have that much money just floating around! j/k...i've found some of that mag's advice a bit pretentious, and not to mention wasteful. good site though. cheers|
|Wait till next month, they'll say the opposite. (nm)||TFerguson|
Jul 18, 2003 10:14 AM
|An Alien ate my bicycle..................||MR_GRUMPY|
Jul 18, 2003 10:34 AM
|will be the next headline at Bicycling.com.|
|I wish an Alien would eat "Fitness Chick and Style Guy" nm||Dave Hickey|
Jul 18, 2003 10:51 AM
|It depends on chain wear. According to Sheldon Brown...||Uprwstsdr|
Jul 18, 2003 10:51 AM
|Measuring Chain Wear
The standard way to measure chain wear is with a ruler or steel tape measure. This can be done without removing the chain from the bicycle. The normal technique is to measure a one-foot length, placing an inch mark of the ruler exactly in the middle of one rivet, then looking at the corresponding rivet 12 complete links away. On a new, unworn chain, this rivet will also line up exactly with an inch mark. With a worn chain, the rivet will be past the inch mark.
This gives a direct measurement of the wear to the chain, and an indirect measurement of the wear to the sprockets:
If the rivet is less than 1/16" past the mark, all is well.
If the rivet is 1/16" past the mark, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.
If the rivet is 1/8" past the mark, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at the 1/8" point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.
If the rivet is past the 1/8" mark, a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones.
|Sometimes they're right||Kerry Irons|
Jul 18, 2003 4:24 PM
|Lots of people change their chain 3X for every cassette change. My math says it's cheaper to run them both to exhaustion. I use Record 9 chains and Chorus steel cassettes, and I get around 10K miles from the pair. At that point, the cassette is definitely ready to change. It costs my around $70 to replace both, and those who go through 3 chains and a cassette spend more for the same number of miles.|
|Does shifting degrade noticeably?||koala|
Jul 19, 2003 9:06 AM
|My LBS says to change campy 10 chains every 2500 to 3000 with consistent lubrication. For me this is once per year(need more time to ride). I have followed their advice.Does this mean I am throwing money away?|
Jul 19, 2003 11:30 AM
|did they just want to sell you more cassettes? I hope you don't use Record! since Campy cassettes are so damn expensive, usual practice is to change the chain often, and only change the cassette when the chain starts skipping.|
|Shifting remains fine as long as the chain is OK||Kerry Irons|
Jul 19, 2003 4:33 PM
|I go by the standard 1/16" per foot discard rule. As long as you're within that limit, shifting is essentially unchanged. The chain does seem to need more frequent lubes in the last 1-2K miles, but since I typically lube every 300-350 miles, it's not really an issue.|
|re: Bicycling.com says...||norcalscot|
Jul 23, 2003 2:03 PM
|I replace my chains roughly every 2500 miles. I find that I have to replace my cassette and chainrings every 4 chains or so.
The mild weather in California might mean that I'm getting better than average use out of my drivetrain, so YMMV.