RoadBikeReview.com's Forum Archives - Components
Couldn't resist, one more shot (nm)(7 posts)
|Couldn't resist, one more shot (nm)||Cat 3 boy|
Jun 23, 2003 7:04 AM
|pay attention cables don't rub the frame, it would be a shame nm||morency|
Jun 24, 2003 3:49 AM
|pay attention cables don't rub the frame, it would be a shame nm||Cat 3 boy|
Jun 24, 2003 7:58 AM
|If u look real close there are tiny rubber donuts at all contact points, esp on the headtube.
Thanx for your concern :)
|helps, but won't stop the rub...||C-40|
Jun 24, 2003 10:50 AM
|The rubber may help, but you may still suffere eventual damage due to dirt between the rubber and the frame.
Routing the cables to the opposite cable stops prevents all contact with the head tube.
|re: helps, but won't stop the rub...||Cat 3 boy|
Jun 24, 2003 11:16 PM
|Hey C-40, so you're suggesting the rear der cable goes into the L side cable stop & crosses the front der cable under the downtube?
Does this cause any noticeable degradation in shifting precision? I think I can remember seeing a pic of a pro bike set up like that......just seems a rather extreme measure to avoid a bit of cable rub, then again 6 months from now if my red paint is wearing through I bet I'll regret it, might give it a try, anyone else done this?
Jun 25, 2003 4:37 AM
|The crossed routing does not degrade shifting. I've been using this setup for the last 4 seasons with no problem. With this routing, the cables are held far away from the head tube, so there is no chance of marring.
Lots of folks do this, but it's more successful with frame designs that have the cable stops located as low as possible to prevent cable rub on the downtube. On some frames, it does not work well.
On my C-40, I use a short length of bike-saver tape on the down tube to keep the cables from marring the paint where the cables cross. Looks better than having bike-saver tape on the head tube.
On my new Fondriest, I had to get more creative. The cables would contact the downtube over a fairly long area. I fabricated a small "bumper", about 3/4 inch wide by 1 inch long from stainless steel sheetmetal. Carefully bent a curve that was smaller in radius than the downtube, so the bumper protudes about 1/8 inch. Attached the bumper to the downtube with silicon caulk, which won't damage the paint, and can be removed if needed. The bumper is located low on the downtube, just above the point where the cable cross. The bumper works great. Keeps the cables from touching the downtube. Cables touching the downtube will create an annoying buzz on gravel sealed asphalt and mar the paint.
|re v common||Cat 3 boy|
Jun 25, 2003 6:41 AM
|Think I'll give it a try next time I recable or at first sign of any paint degradation.
BTW I've been following your Fondriest correspondence, I nearly went Fondriest myself, love the paintjobs on their website & pricing seems really good, just couldn't find an example in a dealer to actually hold before shelling out the cash, enjoy your ride.