|Another Campy 10-speed chain question||tmguy|
Jun 19, 2003 11:24 AM
|Will my Park tool be sufficient to adjust the length? After everyone's imput I will go with the Connex connector, but want to make sure I will not botch things when I adjust the length.
Any further feedback on the Connex v. pin for this chain would be appreciated.
Jun 19, 2003 11:53 AM
|It is when your pushing the pin back in where things can get funky with the park tool.|
|re: Another Campy 10-speed chain question||russw19|
Jun 19, 2003 11:55 AM
|Yes, you can cut it to length with the Park tool. I did. And the Connex link works fine... I have 2,200 miles on mine so far and no problems.
|setting chain length...||C-40|
Jun 19, 2003 1:02 PM
|Be sure that you don't remove too many links when the length is adjusted. You can't put a link back on once it's removed. I just installed the new HD-L pin with a Park tool and it worked fine. The trick is to eliminate any chain tension when installing the pin (from the left side, as directed) by draping the chain over the BB, not the little chainring. The connex link also works great if you need to remove the chain.
In case you're not familiar with adjusting chain length, there's more than one method, but this method insures that the chain is the set to the maximum useable length, to provide the greatest capacity.
Two simple tests will determine if the chain is the correct length. First, it must not hang loose in the little ring, little cog combination. If there is no tension on the chain in the little ring, little cog combination, remove two links (one inch) at a time, until there is. When the ends of the chain are brought together, some movement of the lower pulley should occur, indicating tension is being applied. Two more links (another inch) may need to be removed, beyond the point of absolute minimum tension, to keep the chain from rubbing on itself as it passes under the upper derailleur pulley. Once this is done, the chain is set to the maximum useable length. Removing additional links will do nothing but reduce the derailleur's capacity. It won't help keep the chain from skipping or jumping.
Second, the chain must be long enough to avoid overextending the rear derailleur when shifted to the big ring and biggest cog combination. If the chain is set to the maximum length as described, it should always pass this test, unless your setup exceeds the derailleur's stated capacity.
If you want to see how much lower pulley movement will occur, without removing the extra two links, shift up four teeth (11 to 15 or 12 to 16). This has the same effect as removing two links.
|setting chain length...||tmguy|
Jun 19, 2003 3:19 PM
|Thank you everyone for the responses and C-40 for the detailed explanation and assurances that I can use the pin.
I generally use the very unscientific method of laying the old chain out,laying the new chain next to it and then removing the links so that they are the same length. Since I am just replacing an old C-10 chain, this should work. (I am not an mechanical engineer! Although I work with several!)
|setting chain length...||ukiahb|
Jun 19, 2003 8:37 PM
|I just changed mine for the first time a few days ago and closed the Campy link very carefully with a CoolTool, no problems so far (though I'm carrying a Superlink and a chaintool for awhile just in case). I determined the chain length using Campy's method of having a 10-15 mm gap with the chain on the small ring and small cog and that worked OK....it turned out the old chain was the correct length, but this was an easy way to verify that.|| |