|Need saddle advice!||newridr|
Jun 13, 2003 9:51 AM
|I just bought a C'dale R2000. I've been a long time MTB rider, but my dirty bike has an old Vetta saddle on it that's much more cushy than the Fizik Poggio on my new C'dale.
The problem is this. I don't have any real pain in my sit bones, but I've been getting some serious numbness in the spot no guy wants to ever experience numbness. I tried moving the saddle angle down, but it was putting too much weight on my hands (could possibly have been that I moved it too much, but I did an angle that would have seemed to be right to eliminate the numbness).
So do I try the angling the saddle at smaller degrees until I find the right angle or does it sound from your experience that I just need a saddle with a channel? I like the Poggio, but maybe the nose padding is just too hard??
Any ideas/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
|Saddles are the most personal component||tmguy|
Jun 13, 2003 10:02 AM
|Obviously the Poggio is not working for you. Everybody's anatomy is different Try to find something with the same shape as the Vetta. It may take a number of tries to get it right. My wife went through 4 saddles before she found the one that was right for her. Once you find one you stay with it. For me it is the Flite (original), or the Concor light, or the older Selle turbo or equivalent.
If you can buy from a place with a no questions return policy, like REI so you can try them and then return.
|Saddles are the most personal component||Beaver|
Jun 13, 2003 10:57 AM
|That's what I did this winter. Of course I asked my LBS about saddles before hand and they said to go the mail order route as they weren't sure if they could re sell them.
I bought 3 from Colorado Cyclist and 2 from Performance. I put my trainer in the living room, had all the saddles, an allen wrench and a level. My wife looked at me, rolled her eyes and went upstairs.
I finally ended up with a San Marco Aspide for my road bike and a Flite for my mountain bike.
Colorado Cyclist's saddle return policy is pretty strict so I was careful mounting the saddle and did not remove any tags hanging from the rails. Performance's return policy is a little more lax. Performance used to have an outlet store in my town and you should have seen some of the stuff that people returned. I couldn't believe that they would try to sell it again, of course I've seen the same thing at REI.
|You live in NC ? nm||the bull|
Jun 15, 2003 3:34 PM
|Yep, Raleigh nm||Beaver|
Jun 16, 2003 5:51 AM
|Are you sitting right?||Kerry|
Jun 14, 2003 1:11 PM
|I used to think it was all about saddle angle and saddle matching your rear, but there is a third key factor - sitting properly on the saddle. I notice many people sitting rather forward on the saddle, so that their sit bones are not really supporting their weight. You might try consciously "sitting on your sit bones" so that they are on the highest rear part of the saddle. YMMV|
|Are you sitting right?||newridr|
Jun 14, 2003 2:57 PM
|Thanks for the input. I've just readjusted my saddle a little. I tilted it down a very little as well as sliding it forward. While riding, I try to make a conscious effort to sit correctly in the saddle so I'll see what happens with these new adjustments. I'd hate to replace the Fizik because it really is a nice saddle. Oh well.|
Jun 14, 2003 7:48 PM
|Having a two bolt seat post, such as a Thomson, adds the feature of dialing in a perfect tilt. I start by leveling my saddle out so it is perfectly level (note-make sure you bike is on a level surface). Some of the new saddles, such as the Sella Italia Flite series, are made to be level so you can scoot around and take advantage of the entire saddle. Other are cupped, such as the Selle Italia Prolink, and feel better with a slight backward tilt. Try putting your saddle in the middle of it's rails. Then ride and see where you spend most of your time. If you are constantly scooting back, move your saddle aft a couple of mm's. If you are pulling yourself forward, push your saddle forward a couple of mm's. But you will also have to adjust for it's height as moving back raises the saddle, pushing forward lowers it. If you feel like you have too much weight on your hands, tilt your saddle back a tad by very small increments, that will push your weight back on the rear wheel and take the weight off of you upper body.
Of course you have to have the right saddle for you to start. I could not use a Fizik saddle as it was too narrow.
Most can't go wrong with one of the Selle Italia Flite saddles (gel or non-gel). If you go that route get the new non-embroidered model as the embroidered models eat up your shorts. A good place to check is ebay for slightly used saddles, some are almost brand new and you can get them for almost 1/2 price.
I've never found a saddle I could not use by messing around with it's postion. Some are just sweeter than others, and when you find that one, that's the one for you.
|Saddle and Chamois (shorts)||teamsloppy|
Jun 15, 2003 5:16 PM
|I have some high-end shorts (Pearl Izumi Microsensors @ $120) and cheaper shorts (Hind Drylete @ $34). The Hind are great for distances less than 20 miles on all saddles. The expensive PI's are worth the extravagant price on 50 / 100 milers.
I like Avocet Air O2 saddles, maybe its my ass, but the Sella Italia and Bontrager that came with my bikes hurt more sooner.
And the prostrate channel is a noticeable difference (91 Avocet Air O2 vs. 2002 Avocet Air O2).
If it's a real leather saddle (like the Avocet), a break-in period is noticeable in comfort. Avocet and most major saddle companies have a 30-day refund policy (although it took me 90-days to break in my 2002 Avocet to a softness like the 1991 saddle).