Jun 12, 2003 7:24 AM
|How do you measure seatback on a seatpost? Is there a website or online store that gives standardized setbacks for various posts? I'm trying to locate a seatpost that might allow me to use a Brooks leather saddle on my bike without spending a small fortune. The seatposts I'm currently using (Campy, Mavic) have a fair amount of setback but nearly enough for a Brooks saddle.|
Jun 12, 2003 8:03 AM
|its measured from the center of the post to the center of the clamp (I think). Unfortunatly, this doesn't take into account clamp length. (I think a better measure is center of post to front of clamp.
I don't know of a table that measures this.
I talked to Bill at Wallbike.com and he had a good idea of which posts work with Brooks and which don't. Slacker seat tubes help also.
|Len is absolutely right (of course!)||Dale Brigham|
Jun 12, 2003 12:09 PM
I have been going through exactly the same routine as you in working a Brooks Swift saddle into my bike fit. Your "bad" news about the Brroks Pro's having even worse saddle rail adjustment range convinces me that I have to make the Swift work, if I want to live the "leatha' life."
In that regard, I just recently installed a Salsa Shaft seatpost on my Steelman EC525 rando/cross bike in hopes of getting a few millimeters farther back from the bottom bracket center-line. I measured the original post, a Ritchey Pro, and compared it to my Campy Chorus and other posts. All were setback-style posts, and the center-of-clamp to center-of-post measurements were pretty close (within a few mm).
Where I did find significant differences, though, were in clamp lengths, as Len describes above. The Salsa had about the same measurement c-to-c, but since it has a clamp that is about 5-10 mm shorter than that of the Ritchey, I "gained" a few mm from that aspect, as well as a few from a slightly larger c-to-c measurement. I got a total of about 5 mm farther back (and a darn nice looking post with a cool tilt adjustment feature), which ain't much, but I'll take it.
It's a weird deal when you have to build your bike around a saddle. I am truly deranged.
|more bad news||bianchi boy|
Jun 12, 2003 7:49 PM
|I had just about convinced myself to order a new Lepper titanium-rail leather saddle from Harris Cyclery. I gave them a call to talk about it, though, because I had a used Lepper steel-rail saddle that broke. It was the most comfortable saddle I have used, and had very long rails, so it would be ideal. The bad news is that Harris recommended against buying the Lepper. They said they have had a bunch of returns of these saddles, with the same breakage problem mine had.
I'll check out the Salsa Shaft -- I like the angle adjustability feature. BTW, the main problem with the Team Pro saddle is the sides extend much further down than the Swift, interfering with the clamp. If you slide it back as far as it will go on the rails, it makes the leather bulge out on the sides.
Jun 13, 2003 3:45 AM
|I've got a CLB from Wallingford with my Brooks B17 on my Heron and it adds about 10mm of additional SPO, as compared to my Thompson or Ritchey.
You have to do some careful measurments though as the "aero" shape needs to have X amount of post showing above the collar/top of ST.
Other then the Eastons. the CLB "appears" to have the most SPO (seat post off-set) of any post out there.
Jun 12, 2003 4:39 PM
|Some manufacturers may quote a figure that is distance from the center of the post to the center of the clamp, this does not tell you how much setback the post has, since the front of the clamp is the limiting factor.
Pictures tell about as much as anything. Traditional posts have the front of the clamp approximately in line with the center of the post. Not many offer much more setback than this. If you want lots of setback, check out the new Easton EC-70 post, the Selcof bio-position post or LOOK carbon post.
|no standard...||bianchi boy|
Jun 12, 2003 7:55 PM
|Is the Easton a carbon shaft post? I'm not real comfortable using a carbon post. It may be irrational, but it gives me visions of being reamed by jagged carbon fibers and I'm also afraid I would crush it by overtightening the binder bolt. I actually have a Selcof bio-position post and can't figure out how to adjust it for the life of me. No matter how I adjust the screws, the saddle ends up with the nose about 1" higher than the rear. As for the Look, I just can't bring myself to spend $170 on a seatpost.|
|can figure it out???||C-40|
Jun 13, 2003 6:48 AM
|The bio-position post has the same clamp design as the ITM Millennium, Colnago carbon post and other Selcof posts. I've been using this design for years with no problems.
The front bolt it used to adjust the saddle angle and the rear bolt clamps the rails. The front bolt requires an 8mm hex wrench to adjust the angle. If the nose is too high, loosen the back bolt 2-3 turns first, then place the 8mm wrench on the front bolt and turn the bolt CCW (push the wrench away from you, from the right side of the bike). This screws the bolt into the nut on the top of the clamp, lowering the nose of the saddle. If the front bolt becomes too tight before the nose is low enough, loosen the back bolt some more. Finish up by tightening the back bolt. The nose may raise a little when the back bolt is tightened. If so, you might need to lower the nose a bit more than desired, so it ends up at the desired angle when the back bolt is tight.
I suppose it's possible to have a saddle with rails at an angle that are beyond the adjustment range of the post. If the front bolt is screwed into the top nut as far as possible and the nose is still too high, then it's a saddle problem, IMO. I've never found a saddle that couldn't be adjusted level with any of the three posts of this design that I've owned.