Jun 1, 2003 7:31 PM
|My rear wheel has 6 spokes that just won't stay tight. Is lock-tite an option, or is this typically a spoke replacement issue?|
|re: Loosening Spokes||curlybike|
Jun 1, 2003 8:19 PM
|This is an indication of a poorly built wheel with uneven tension and spokes too loose on the drive side. Go back to the builder before they start breaking.|
|re: Loosening Spokes||SingleThreaded|
Jun 2, 2003 4:39 AM
|I was thinking this was the case originally. The spokes came loose 12 miles after having them trued at the shop. I can't say for certain whether they were loose only on the drive side, but now that you say that the knobbies were hitting the stays on the non-drive side.
Fortunately, I was carrying a spoke wrench and retightened them on the road. Back home, I went through the wheel myself and another 12-15 miles later another 6 spokes were loose. I can't really blame the shop for something that doesn't rare its head for 12 miles. And as this is my alternative cycling transportation its probably been a month since I last had this bike at the shop.
I'm thinking it's a mismatched spoke/nipple threading problem.
|IMHO, the original answer is still correct...||TFerguson|
Jun 2, 2003 5:56 AM
|Comments on your reply:
Truing alone does not equalize the tension on the spokes. It usually makes it worse.
They were never tight if your tire is hitting after 12 miles. Even a cheap, well-built wheel should last for 1200 miles without the tire hitting the frame.
You certainly can blame the bike shop for a wheel that hits the frame after 12 (or 120) miles unless you would not let them fix it correctly.
The chance of mismatched spokes/nipples is small. From the sound of your message, I would guess that it has "large" 14 gauge straight spokes. The most likely mismatch would be 14 G nipple on 15 G spokes. This will thread on but will pull loose. On re-reading your reply, this is worth checking though since they come loose so quickly.
If these are good wheels, have it completely re-tensioned. If not, it may be worth your while to pick up a better set of new or used wheels.
|IMHO, the original answer is still correct...||SingleThreaded|
Jun 2, 2003 6:56 AM
|You spun me around like a loose spoke with your reply. Why wouldn't should truing seek to equalize the tension on all spokes? I know in my truing of the wheel after the fact that all spokes were sufficiently tight. Not having a tensionometer I can't say for certain how even the tension was distributed, but all spokes were tight and when strummed sounded similarly.
Your right about the wheel having the large 14 gauge straight spokes. The wheels are nothing fancy, standard stock Specialized Stump Jumper wheels, 1.5" width, no other label on them. This was a replacement wheel for the rear wheel I trashed a couple years back; probably only got about 700 miles on it. What's a good MTB wheel these days?
|Sounds like the store's fault.||Eug|
Jun 2, 2003 7:25 AM
|I think the other guys are correct. I had the same problem with a front wheel I built myself. I just built it just to learn how, and I'm convinced I didn't tension them correctly and equally despite my best efforts. (It was my first wheel build after all - Sun Sub IV on an LX hub.)
Within 50 miles it was out of true, and retruing just meant that it'd last another 50 miles before requiring a retrue. I'm gonna pay to have it rebuilt.
The same thing happens with my machine-built wheels. If they're stock wheels, it's quite possible you have machine-built ones.
OTOH, my hand-built wheels from the store stay perfectly true for quite some time.
BTW, for nice strong relatively light and inexpensive wheels I like Bontrager Mustangs (with the asym rear) on XT hubs, built up with 14/15 spokes x 32 with brass nipples.
|Sounds like the store's fault.||SingleThreaded|
Jun 2, 2003 7:56 AM
|I'll have to either rebuild or replace, either way. I may look into the Bontrager wheels. Not really looking for anything particularly light, just reliable. I, incidently, switched to this shop because they were able to get my Bontrager Race Lites to last longer than 500 miles without having to be retrued. As you may be able to discern by now, at 240lb I'm a little rough on all my wheels even though I try to be delicate on my roadie. Off-road there's not much choice. I'll probably go for a 36 or 40 spoke wheel, if available.|
|Hard core 240 pounder MTBiker on Bontrager Race Lites???||Eug|
Jun 2, 2003 8:19 AM
|I've never used them, but I'd be hesitant to use Race Lites regularly on some of the terrain I ride on, and I'm only 155 lbs.
If you want bombproof wheels, you may want to consider the Sun Rhyno Lites. They are HEAVY, but they'll last. (Mustangs are not super lights like the Race Lites, but they're lighter than average and pretty strong. They're not bombproof obviously though.)
BTW, you'd be better off going to www.mtbr.com for MTB advice.
|Hard core 240 pounder MTBiker on Bontrager Race Lites???||SingleThreaded|
Jun 2, 2003 8:45 AM
|My Race Lites are on my Zurich(road); they never see anything but the nicest of roads. I don't even try track standing on the Race Lites. One, because I don't really have a reason to, but secondly, because torqueing low spoke wheels is not a good thing with heavy weight.|
|Good mtb wheel these days||the bull|
Jun 2, 2003 3:37 PM
|Mine! Its lasted a long time.
Get someone good to build u one!
Hugi rear hub/Dt spokes/brass nipples/517 Mavic rim.