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Ksyrium SSC SL Wheel building procedure(3 posts)

Ksyrium SSC SL Wheel building procedureZeH
May 22, 2003 3:41 AM
I broke a rear ksyrium ssc sl wheel, I'll build it by my own. However, the technical manual for this type of rim is not available on the net.
I would like to know the following:
1- I know the first spoke on right of the valve hole is a radial spoke. This hole has the S/N stick in one of its faces. what's correct side for the serial number sticker? - free wheel side or the opposite side?
2- Can you send me a copy of the tech manual for this specific wheel?

re: Ksyrium SSC SL Wheel building procedureBruno S
May 22, 2003 2:40 PM
Can you let me know the price and the weight of the rim? I may need to replace my front wheel at some point in the future.
I just built one last week...Twilight
May 26, 2003 5:26 AM
My SLs came from a wrecked wheelset a guy was throwing away. The bike had fallen off the back of his car on the road and was destroyed. The front wheel was severely out of true with a couple gouges in the sidewall and rear wheel totally destroyed, all I was able to salvage there was the hub and a couple sopkes that weren't bent into pretzels. I trued up the front wheel, buffed the gouges smooth and have put 1200 miles on it without having to re-true. The rear took a bit longer to work on, I had to wait until Mavic made the rims available.

Here are a couple pics of my completed wheel:

The S/N sticker is driveside on my wheel. Whether or not this is correct, I don't rightly know. I did try to lace it the other way, but the spoke holes are offset just slightly and they prevented me from lacing in that pattern. I suspect my rim is backwards, but that doesn't affect function and I can live with a backwards rim. The "Ksyrium" stickers read L->R on both sides, so Its not easy to tell the mistake unless you know about it. I lined up the 'Mavic' label with the valve hole. There are some wheelbuilding habits that are hard to break.

These wheels are extremely sensitive to spoke tension, high is important but not at the cost of consistent. Take your time truing the bugger, you can make huge differences in true with just minute turns of the wrench. My wheel is <1mm out of lateral and radial true, I can't get any better than that. Plucking spokes is your best method of telling tension, it helps to have another wheel to compare against.

Forgive the crappy tire, my good tires are on B.O. and I had to make do with a trainer tire to get out on the road yesterday.