|Conversion from 1" threaded to 1-1/8" threadless||road rookie|
Apr 30, 2003 4:05 PM
|I have a 2000 Giant OCR. I want to upgrade to 1-1/8" carbon fork. The headset on the bike is for 1" threaded fork. Is it possible to upgrade the headset to accept a 1-1/8" threadless fork? Looks like the 1-1/8" is going to be the standard so I don't want to spend money on a 1" fork.|
Apr 30, 2003 4:27 PM
|You cannot really make a headtube larger so it would seem inpossible to go from 1" to a 1-1/8".
I would not knock the 1" threadless since many companies still use it on thier road bikes. Most italian steel imports, Fuji steel, and others.
The best part is since there is a "perceived" notion that 1" will not be availible much longer you can get some great deals on some great parts. Look at Nashbar since they have many really nice threadless 1" forks and headsets for real cheap.
|not really...||Steve Bailey|
Apr 30, 2003 6:30 PM
|Good advice here...
If you do decide to go 1" threadless, buy a few as future spares. It's my bet that 1" threadless will eventually become difficult to find.
Why ?, there aren't that many bike using it and you either see the old standard 1" threaded, or more and more , 1-1/8" threadless or integrated.
It's not a big deal going 1" threadless though, as with 2 spares, you'll probably be replacing the frame long before you run out of headsets.
My big question is why ?. There are no advantages to threadless, other then somewhat simpler initial installation. Ditto integrated.
The 1" threaded design has been around for decades and there are still scores of designs that are as good as any headset out there - Shimano Ultegra comes to mind as an inexpensive, but long lasting design. Ditto threaded stems. Tons of those around also.
|not really...||road rookie|
May 1, 2003 2:27 PM
|besides simpler install/adjustments, isn't threadless design lighter and provide better connection between fork and stem?|
Apr 30, 2003 6:21 PM
|The only thing that you can do to save weight is 1) change to a 1" threadless fork with an Aluminum stearer. Save 100 grams. 2) change to a 1" threadless fork with a carbon stearer. Save another 100 grams.|
|re: Conversion from 1" threaded to 1-1/8" threadless||specializedfan|
Apr 30, 2003 6:55 PM
|I have a buddy that has a steel bike with an 1" head tube.
He bought a Cane Creek S-pro 1" headset. Very easy to install, and the only better one you can get is a Chris King. And there are plenty of manufactures that make 1" steer tube forks.
Alpha Q, Reynolds,and easton. Just to name a few very well respected makers of carbon forks.
The switch is very easy to do.
|re: Conversion from 1" threaded to 1-1/8" threadless||russw19|
May 1, 2003 12:53 AM
|Can't be done. You are limited by your headtube diameter. If you had a larger headtube, you can always go to a smaller size via a King devolution headset and a stem shim, but not the other way around.
Now, that said, a few points....
Get yourself a King Headset. They are the best on the market. I had someone ask me the other day what makes them so good... everyone it seems has a simaler design... what makes them so good is that they had that design for the past 15 years and the rest of the industry is just now catching up. If you buy a King, you will never buy another headset again. They are sweet, bombproof, beautiful, and light. They are the headset everyone else tries to measure up to... why not just get the top instead of someone trying to knock it off the top.
Next, stems.... because you have a 1 inch, you have MORE options. Most good 1 1/8th stems include a shim to use on a 1 inch steerer. My Deda Newton stem for example, and most of the new 1 1/8th Carbon stems too. So you are set there.
Forks.... if you want light weight, the 1 inch is actually lighter. A Stella Azzurra Belagio fork with a 1 inch steerer is only 325 grams (the 1 1/8th is 395) but if you want durability, get a carbon blade with either an aluminium or steel steerer. You would be surprised by the number of professional riders that actually prefer the added strength and stiffness of a steel steerer fork.
As for the design of the future aspect of the oversized headset.... on a mountain bike, it is needed due to the excess shock and vibration the fork has to take. Also, it became more needed with suspension forks. The reason has to do with the deflection a suspension fork will undergo. Even some of the stiffer forks will move as much as 2 inchs for and aft under braking loads. That kills headsets. Road bike forks just don't flex that much. So the need for oversized headsets with a larger diameter ball is not needed. Most companies would tell you that oversized headsets are fashion before function... not the other way around. Companies first went oversized on the headsets so they could make an oversized headtube and shave away materials. It was so someone could win the race of having the first sub 1 kilogram road frame. It's marketing hype and form from fashion, not better by design. Sure you can argue that the oversized design is stronger, but how often did you see heatubes of frames fail? A 1.5 inch headset with a triple clamp fork is stronger still, but you don't see that arguement being made by road riders. And one last piece of evidence that shows you manufacturers don't put 1 1/8th headsets in because of their strength is the integrated design. The integrated design is lighter, but not stronger. If the companies cared about strength they would use a traditional 1 inch headset. Some companies still do this, like Colnago, Moots, and a few more well respected companies.
Bottom line is you don't need to make this change, but instead you can get the 1 inch design and it will outlast your lifespan on that frame.
|re: Conversion from 1" threaded to 1-1/8" threadless||theweasonator|
May 1, 2003 6:12 AM
|I have a '95 C'dale R600 which came stock with a 1 inch Tange Seiki Headset and an Al Fork. I upgraded it in 2001 to a King 1 inch threadless and an Easton EC70 with carbon tube (which I got for $169 at Supergo) and I have been very pleased with this setup. I figured out I dropped nearly a pound after the upgrade. The carbon fork smoothed out ride my significantly. My rake also changed as well to more of a standard 4.3 cm from a 4.6. I would highly suggest making this upgrade. This reduced alot of the chatter up front. This year I upgraded to the EC90 bars and the combination of the carbon bars and carbon fork which means there is virtually no chatter up front now. VERY SMOOTH RIDE!!! I have had a time finding stem that will accomodate the carbon bars and steerer though. see my post about the EC90 up top.|| |