|Bicycling mags hub tuning What am I missing?||TFerguson|
Apr 18, 2003 5:30 AM
|Has anybody read the maintenance section (May pg 89) on "Fine-Tune Hub Bearings"? They say to (and show) tighten or loosen the cone by turning the cone and lock nut on the same side. To me, this will tighten or loosen the lock nut relative to the cone. Whether it does anything to the bearing tightness depends on which one turns on the axle.
To adjust the bearings I:
Loosen the lock nut, adjust the cone, tighten the lock nut, check adjustment, and repeat as necessary. Or
(Preferred) Make sure both lock nuts are tight, loosen both cones until there is a very small amount of play in the hub, install hub in frame (or truing stand) with skewer, tighten both lock nuts slowly until that small amount of play is gone. With the rear you have to get the small amount of play in before tightening the lock nuts since you cannot get at the drive side cone once assembled.
Am I missing something in the Bicycling article or is this just their usual. I'm looking forward to the issue that actually does not have one bike in it. Should be soon at the rate they're going.
|re: Bicycling mags hub tuning What am I missing?||curlybike|
Apr 19, 2003 8:34 AM
|This is much better done in person than by article as some of the nuances are difficult to explain. If you only lightly snug the locknut to the cone, you can turn the cone and locknut at the same time by turning the locknut on that same side and holding the locknut on the other side of the hub. You want to have the q/r loose and move the cones closer while still keeping some shake in the bearings. Then tighten the q/r and see if there is still shake. Ideally you want the shake to disappear as you just completely close the q/r. Then you have to final tighten the locknut that was snug against the cone to keep everything tight. This may cause a little change, repeat as required so that the shake just goes away with the q/r. I leave a very slight shake in my own hubs but some people do not like that. If you remove all shake before the q/r is tight, it will cause the cones to be too tight when the q/r is tight. This can cause very early cone failure and excess drag. The wheel should oscillate around the heavy spot in the stand with the q/r tight. If the wheel is tight in the dropouts and you place the valve at any place other than pointing straight down, the wheel should start to turn by itself and continue to rock back and forth.|
|I agree - mostly. But that's not what the article says...||TFerguson|
Apr 19, 2003 2:18 PM
|Your method is similar to the preferred method in my posting.
The article tightens and loosens the cones with both wrenches on the same side.