|So many questions!||analog1|
Apr 15, 2003 10:04 AM
|I just got my new old frame '88 colnago super and now I have to build it up. I have so many questions.
1. Record vs. Chorus? Besides sex appeal is record far superior to chorus?
2. How do I measure things like seat tube diameter and rear stay spacing? From the outside or the inside?
3. To build with record 10 I know the rear stays will have to be stretched by a couple mm. Is this dangerous to the frame? (It's columbus sl).
Any info would help!
|That's not very many...||TJeanloz|
Apr 15, 2003 10:52 AM
|1. Sex appeal and weight [and price] aside, Chorus and Record are functionally identical.
2. Seat tube diameter is inside diameter -- but you're better off bringing to an LBS and just trying a bunch of posts.
3. Spreading the stays should not be a problem.
|I'm just getting started with the questions... here's another||analog1|
Apr 15, 2003 11:02 AM
|What's the difference between Mavic Open Pro and Open Pro CD? What is the benefit/advantage of CD?|
|I'm just getting started with the questions... here's another||TJeanloz|
Apr 15, 2003 11:07 AM
|Open Pro CD is an Open Pro rim with a hard-anodized finish to make it stronger. Mavic makes some outlandish claim about the strength, but the CD has some drawbacks (the brake surface is sub-par) and it isn't necessary for 90% of applications.|
|re: open pro/cd||analog1|
Apr 15, 2003 11:46 AM
|So It's better to go with the Open Pro? I'm a heavier girl 150ish. I do hard climbing and riding. I'd like to use a 28 hole hub. Will the Open Pro be strong enough?|
|Regular Open Pro will be plenty strong (nm)||TJeanloz|
Apr 15, 2003 12:05 PM
|CD has benefits||cyclequip|
Apr 15, 2003 11:57 PM
|I'm not in complete agreement with the view that the CD has a sub-par braking surface. The difference is that the CD has a deeper anodising treatment, making the surface hardness greater. Depends on how much wet-weather riding you do. If lots, then CD is better cos the braking surface holds up much better - the reason most Euro riders prefer CD. Also, from a structural point of viw, both rims will work equally well depending on how you spoke/lace.|
|Hard anodized = more failures||Kerry|
Apr 16, 2003 3:35 PM
|The anodized aluminum is more brittle than plain alloy or a thin layer. While stronger than the 6XXX alloy of the rim, if the anodized layer cracks (at spoke holes is common) then it forms a stress riser that causes rim failure much more quickly. The anodization wears off the braking surface fairly quickly, so if there is any initial advantage, it disappears in short order. Euro pros ride what the sponsor provides, and when you get new wheels every so often (possibly several times per year) then the downside factors are not an issue. For the rest of us, hard anodized rims are more costly and not as reliable. Full stop.|| |