|Question for Russw19||Leak|
Mar 11, 2003 12:05 PM
|I've read some of your posts about the Cane Creek Aerohead/Volos wheels and had a question for you. I believe you've said that you really like the Team Ti version of these wheels and was wondering why you'd recommend those over the SS versions, especially given the $300 difference in price?
Both the Aerohead SS and Ti versions are on sale at various locations, but I'm also considering the new SS Volos since they've got the asym rear rim and have redesigned the hubs (at least the rear hub) to provide quicker engagement.
|re: Question for Russw19||russw19|
Mar 11, 2003 2:58 PM
|I have riden the SS version, but I owned the Ti version (Aeroheads, not the Volos BTW) and the Ti spokes make a nicer ride. The Ti spokes are more compliant, but you can also run them at a much higher tension which helps to eliminate "wind up" in the wheels. They also tend to feel stiff when you get out of the saddle and hammer for a sprint or a climb, but never feel harsh. I had bought a set last year to use as race wheels, but liked them so much, they were all I rode. I put about 12,000 miles on them before I hurt my knee playing hockey. The only reason I got rid of them is that I work in a shop and so I tend to keep stuff for one season only, then move on to newer stuff. That's the only way for shop employees to stay up on all the new stuff if you ask me, so that's why I do it.
I just bought a pair of American Classic 420's and I want to give them a few months of exclusive riding before I buy my new Cane Creeks. I will get a pair of Volos, but not until the summer, like late June or July. I also have the advantage of paying less for stuff, and I live in Florida so my season is really a full 12 months.
As for the SS to Ti spoke options... well the simple things first.
Ti spokes are lighter. Less rotating mass means much faster wheels. I already talked about the ride qualities and the lower wind up, which means acceleration is the best on these wheels than anything else I have riden. And they stayed true. I never touched my Cane Creeks. But as you mentioned, they are $300 more expensive. Although you can find the Aerohead Team Ti's on the net for about $400 right now if you can find close-out stock. The only real difference between them and the Volos is the offset rear rim. Which should help to balance the spoke tension even more, and lead to a stronger wheel that should stay in true even better (if that is possible)
The stainless spoked model is very very nice. But it is heavier and feels a little softer as you ride it. It just doesn't have the "spring" to it that the Ti wheels have. However, they are way cheaper. Almost half the price. These wheels however don't have a huge aerodynamic advantage. They are fast due to the low weight, and more importantly the low weight at the rim. If the stainless are in your budget, they are some really fine wheels... but if you can find the Ti ones from 2002 on sale, or can afford the extra for the Ti Volos, you won't be disappointed by them. The ride is as nice as I have ever riden on any wheels, and I will buy them again.
Hope that answers your questions... if not, let me know what I missed...
|correction on mileage.....||russw19|
Mar 11, 2003 3:37 PM
|Whoops.. little misinformation in that post.. I put 5,000 miles on the Cane Creeks... the 12K was what I rode the entire season pre injury, but on all my wheels. But I never had to true those wheels.
|re: Question for Russw19||Leak|
Mar 11, 2003 3:43 PM
Thanks, yes that does answer most of my questions. I can basically get the 2002 Aerohead Ti and the 2003 SS Volos for about the same price. I like the idea of the asym rear rim and the fact that Cane Creek saw fit to update the hubs, but the lighter weight and "value" of the 2002 Aerohead Ti's is enticing too.
I weigh 150lbs. Can I ask how much you weigh? In the RBR reviews it seems some heavier riders were breaking the Ti spokes.
I have a pair of AC 420s also, but have had some problems with them. I'm basically looking for another set of wheels so that I can still ride when I send my rear wheel back to have them take a look at it.
Thanks for the info and feedback!
|re: Question for Russw19||russw19|
Mar 11, 2003 6:11 PM
|If you are 150, you probably won't have a problem. It also seems that those breaking Ti spokes were breaking earlier models of the wheels. Either way, I am about 210 now.. I was about 220 then, so I am bigger than most cyclists, yet I never had a problem.
As for the AM Classics, they will fix them if you send them back. What problems are you having with them? And have you contacted AmC yet, if so, who did you speak to? I would recommend if you haven't contacted them yet, speak to Jayson when you do.
But my recommendation is if you can get the Ti spokes for the same as the 2003 SS Volos, get the Ti. They ride nicer. I think even with the offset rim and the new hub, for the same price, the older Ti spoked wheels are better than the newer SS ones.
|Narrow brake tracks?||5ive|
Mar 11, 2003 7:33 PM
I've heard that the AC420 rims have very narrow brake tracks which requires careful adjustment of brakepads. Can you comment on this issue? How severe is this problem in your opinion? Thanks in advance.
|Narrow brake tracks?||Leak|
Mar 11, 2003 9:51 PM
|Not Russ, but I have the 420s too and it's not that big a deal. It definitely takes more preciseness, but it's pretty straightforward.
The bigger "issue" in my opinion is that the brake track can get pretty slippery due to the paint/anodization on the brake track. Until that wears away, you have to keep your pads and rims very clean. I got caught in a little rain and the first time I hit the brakes, nothing happened! Plus, when the color does come off, it creates a real mess on your tires.
|paint/anodization on the brake track?||5ive|
Mar 12, 2003 10:36 AM
|Did I hear this right? Do you mean to say that the brake track have paint or anodization on them just like the rest of the rim? So does this mean that the brake track is not machined? Thanx.|
|paint/anodization on the brake track?||Leak|
Mar 12, 2003 8:38 PM
|Yes, on the 420s. The 350s are machined though. But how is this any different from say a OP CD rim? At anyrate, one rain ride and the stuff comes off anyway.|
|re: Question for Russw19||Leak|
Mar 11, 2003 9:46 PM
I did talk with Jayson and he told me that the noise was "normal". What kind of disturbed me the most was that he said "some pairs are noisy and some aren't" which tells me that they don't know why one pair is and one isn't?
The first problem is that the front wheel went out of true before I got out of my driveway, and after my first ride on flat, nice roads, both the front and rear were way out of true.
I also noticed that the (my) rear hub is very loud when freewheeling...as loud as a Chris King in my opinion, and there's a lot of drag while coasting. I tried backing off the bearing pre-load a little, but that didn't make much difference. After 500 miles, it's still the same. Even spinning the wheel by hand, it barely makes it around once before it stops. My 5 year old Mavic Crossland MTB wheels will spin three or four revolutions before stopping.
At any rate, I'm going to send the rear wheel back and have them check it out.
I've also decided to go with the Volos SS and if I like them, maybe I'll pick up a pair of 2003 Team Ti's on sale next year at this time?
Thanks again for the input and feedback! I appreciate it.