|The wheel deal - Open Pro vs. Open Pro CD||El Kabong|
Feb 11, 2003 6:30 AM
|'Kay, I'm getting ready to build up a wheelset and am thinking about Open Pro rims. The reviews for the regular OP here are terrible -- many posters complaining about loose pins causing clicking noises. The reviews for the CD version are excellent - no mention of any clicking problems. Does Mavic pick the rims that don't click and send them off to be anodized into CD versions?
Also, I'd be happy to have your other rim suggestions -- looking for a durable everyday, but still fairly light rim that won't break the bank. I can get the OP CDs for $55 a whack, for example. Thanks!
|I have heard...||PsyDoc|
Feb 11, 2003 7:15 AM
|...that the "clicking" of the eyelets of Open Pro rims derives from the spoke tension being too low. I have some personal experiences that support that notion. For example, a LBS, that I no longer go to, trued up a set that did not click. When I got it, some of the spokes were loose and the dreaded "clicking" began. The LBS does not use any method of measuring the tension in the spokes, but you could feel that some were much looser than others.|
|I don't think the CDs are any better...||Quack|
Feb 11, 2003 7:16 AM
|Keep in mind that people are much less likely to submit a positive review than they are a negative one. I own two of the CD versions of the rim and have experienced the click problem in one of them. I have looked into the cause and though I haven't yet cut the rim in half to verify, I am 99% convinced that the mechanical plug that holds the rim joint in alignment(probably for the weld process) lets go. The plug then has just enough clearance in the rim that when the rim distorts under load, it shifts and causes a click. My rim only clicks when the rim joint is in conctact with the ground and weighted. I've had some success by increasing the tension in the wheel but then snapped aluminum nipples in half while riding. I suppose brass would be OK but I didn't really feel like running that high of spoke tension anyway.
I've heard of bike shop guys drilling holes on each side of the joint and shooting shoe-goo into the cavity to hold things in place but haven't tried myself. Personally, I went with the SunME14a rim which is basically an Open Pro copy that's 5 grams lighter and had good luck. The eyelets aren't finished quite as nice as the OPs but that's about it. Plus, Cambria is selling the rims for $29 now. Another bad deal with the CD rims is that if you ever ride rain, snow, dirt, the brake pads mixed with sand will grind the CD coating right off the sidewall of the rim inside of 20 miles. Mine got destroyed in only one rain ride. Plus, the CD coating didn't seem to brake as well as bare aluminum.
|I don't think the CDs are any better...||Rob Sal|
Feb 11, 2003 11:33 AM
|Anodising will wear off in time regardless of make. And the wear seems to be most noticeable in line with the spokes. So you end up with (in my case) 36 silver patches on your black side walls!
Silver rims can look bad in there own way, thanks to the brake pad deposits. So you end up with black sidewalls!! Mavic sell a 'soft stone' that can be used to remove these deposits, though they say that they would fade the anodising if used on CD rims.
Feb 11, 2003 7:26 AM
|...the rims Ritchey markets are made by Ambrosio and are pretty nice. They are also lighter than the Open Pros by 10-20 grams.|| |