|That Dreaded BB Creak||B2|
Jan 28, 2003 6:12 AM
|I've got a pretty wicked BB creak going that I can't seem to resolve. It's an Ultegra BB in a steel frame. Last week I removed the BB, cleaned everything up real good, applied grease and teflon tape and torqued to spec. It solved the problem for a 30 miles... It's back, loud as ever.
|re: lube your q-r's||philippec|
Jan 28, 2003 7:57 AM
|I went throught this last year and tore apart my bike -- it wasn't until I lubricated the quick releases that the sound went away -- i was <> the sound was coming from the BB and I have many years of wrenching on my bikes behind me. So, if you are as sure as I was that it is the BB, try my suggestion!
|re: Pedals? Loose chain ring bolt? nm||dzrider|
Jan 28, 2003 11:10 AM
|99% Sure it's the BB||B2|
Jan 28, 2003 11:28 AM
|Nothing else was changed on the bike other than removal and reinstallation of the BB and the creak went away... for 30 miles.
I still need to make sure it's not the rivets that hold the larger cassette cogs together. Had that happen on another bike once. It's unlikely, but maybe I wasn't using the larger cogs for the first 30 miles.
Thanks for the input,
|I would tighten it a touch more...||Quack|
Jan 28, 2003 12:06 PM
|Since you have lubed and taped without results, I would tighten the BB a little more than you are used to and see what happens. With the chain off the chainrings, if pushing on the crankarm with your hand is very easy and the crank continues to rotate after you stop, it's too loose. I used to obsess about resistance in rotating assemblies, but then realized that my legs cared very little about the amount of resistance a snug bottom bracket caused. I would rather be creak free any day. Good luck!|
|Better quality BB tool available?||B2|
Jan 28, 2003 1:14 PM
|Yes I was going to try this also. In the past I've torqued it up to the minimum of the specified range since it's so damn hard to remove otherwise. I guess it's time to crank it up a notch.
Does anybody make a BB tool with tighter tolerances? I have the Park version and it seems wiggle around quite a bit. With a tool that fits tighter, it might be easier to remove the BB.
I had my LBS remove it for me once when I didn't feel comfortable reefing on it that much with my tool. I think they used a tool made for the ISIS BB that fit better??? Does this make sense?
|Tool fit limitations||Calvin|
Jan 28, 2003 2:27 PM
|There is a limit to the fit of any tool in this situtation. For the loads required for a bb cup, a deeper spline in the cup would be nice. Consider holding any tool in place using the skewer. This is commonly done for freewheel tools, and works well here as well. |
For square type spindles use a long 8mm x 1mm bolt.
|Thanks Calvin - That looks like a great idea (nm)||B2|
Jan 28, 2003 5:04 PM
|I'm a bit confused...||Quack|
Jan 29, 2003 9:50 AM
|When I recommended tightening the BB a little more, I meant tightening the load of the bearings on the spindle, which I thought was the source of the creaks. Because I have used DA bottom brackets for the last couple years, I can't recall if you can adjust the load on the bearings of Ultegra but I don't recall not being able to. I would be hesitant to crank the BB shell into the frame really tight for fear of thread damage in the frame, but as long as your torque isn't too far over the max rating, it should be fine.
I would recommend antiseize lubricant instead of grease or teflon for anything steel on steel. I personally don't think that lubing a bottom bracket shell with grease will prevent squeaks and more than not lubing it. If the interface is out of spec and there is enough movement to cause a squeak, do you really want to try and mask the problem by lubing it??
|Ultegra BB isn't like DA||B2|
Jan 29, 2003 4:05 PM
|The Ultegra BB does not adjust like the DA BB. There really isn't any adjustment option or torque the increases the resistance in the bearings. Unlike a headset or the DA BB, when you thread the unit into the frame it doesn't apply any more or less pressure against the bearings.
The specified torque for the Ultegra BB is 50Nm to 70Nm. I've been torquing to about 55Nm so I guess I'll try more like 65Nm to 70Nm.
|You sure are||Kerry|
Jan 29, 2003 4:56 PM
|How do you reach the conclusion that "antiseize lubricant" as you describe it, is somehow different from grease in function for this application. Antiseize is essentially grease with additives to prevent galling and galvanic corrosion (finely divided elemental metal). Grease has all the same properties EXCEPT the finely divided metal. Just because you "don't think" grease works, doesn't mean that it doesn't work. It does work, and it has worked for years. Metal on metal (no lube) is much more likely to make noises than lubricated surfaces. If grease "masks" the problem, why doesn't anti seize "mask" the problem?|
|You sure are||Quack|
Jan 29, 2003 7:06 PM
|Though I can't speak intelligently on the chemical makeup of grease versus anti-seize, I do know that anti-seize more evenly distributes itself in threads and is nearly impossible to get out without solvent. Grease on the otherhand, tends to wash out easily and doesn't seem to do much to protect against corrosion once water is introduced.
Futhermore, it wasn't my intention to imply that anti-seize "masked" better than grease. It's only purpose is to prevent the BB shell from becoming one with the threads of the frame. If your BB shell is moving around in the frame enough to make noise, I would say it is either too loose and needs to be tightened or something is out of spec.
Thanks for the education on anti-seize, I wondered what the silvery stuff was that didn't come off my hands, finely divided metal.
|re: That Dreaded BB Creak||tmac13|
Jan 29, 2003 11:34 AM
|QR's!! I went throug hthis exact same problem and lubing the back QR solved it. I did not believe this would work, as I was sure the noise was coming from the BB, but it did.|| |