|Fork and headset?||chunkymonkey|
Dec 27, 2002 6:45 PM
|If a new fork is threaded and you want to go with a threadless headset can you just cut the steer? I will have to cut it anyway and get it re-threaded if don't go threadless.Thanks in advance.|
|re: not to my knowledge...||Akirasho|
Dec 27, 2002 7:39 PM
|... a threaded steerer is steel, whereas a threadless could either by alloy or carbon fiber, and as such is designed to work in concert with a threadless headset's bearing, a star fangle nut/compression plug, top cap and stem to make the system work. a steel steerer probably wouldn't deform enuff under tension to do said.
Remain In Light.
Be the bike.
|re: Don't know why not.....||Rusty Coggs|
Dec 28, 2002 5:49 AM
|I'm drawing a blank on why the steerere needs to deform.There are chromo threadless steerers.|
Dec 28, 2002 7:18 AM
|I just built a bike with a steel threadless fork. The steerer sure looked (and cut) like steel. I'd have to say I don't believe there's any way this star fangled nut is going to budge (without significant effort). All the system components seem to be quite compatible and functional well together.
I would think that if you were able to cut he steerer below the threads that you would OK to use it for a threadless setup.
|re: Fork and headset?||MR_GRUMPY|
Dec 28, 2002 4:39 PM
|If you just want that "threadless" look, why not get a Quill adapter. It's a straight Al quill that lets you use a threadless stem on a threaded fork.|
|re: Fork and headset?||motta|
Dec 29, 2002 5:43 AM
|Check with manufacturer. Alot of times the steer tube below the threads is thinner diameter than the threaded portion, so new threads should not be cut below a certian point. This thinner diameter may not be strong enough to handle the loads of threadless system.|
Dec 29, 2002 5:44 AM
|You've got lots of poor answers provided to your question. Your posting is also not too clear. Do you already have the threaded fork? If so, what's the total length of the unthreaded steerer?
A threaded steerer would typically be purchased in the correct length, so only a small amount would be cut off. Unless you intentionally purchase a threaded steerer that is much longer than necessary, it should never have to be cut off and rethreaded for use with a threaded headset.
If you purchase a threaded fork and want to use it with a threadless headset, it would have to be much longer than necessary to cut off the (typical) 50mm of threading and still leave about 40mm above the headset to clamp the stem.
You should not try to clamp a threadless stem onto the threaded portion of a steering tube.
|So how much longer than your headtube is the fork?||Spoke Wrench|
Dec 29, 2002 7:12 PM
|For a threaded system, the steer tube has to be around 35 or 40mm longer than your head tube. If you want to, you can use a spacer and add another 5 or 10mm steer tube length.
For a threadless system, you need all of that plus a minimum of typically 40mm for the stem. Most guys put an additional 25mm or so of spacers under the stem to get the handlebar to the desired height. In other words, a threadless steer tube has to be at least a couple of inches longer than a threaded one to get the same fit.
In addition to all this, most people say that it's dangerous to clamp your threadless stem onto the threaded part of the steer tube, so unless you have a really good dental plan, you really should cut that part off.
This is kind of a long way to say that it probably isn't going to work as a threadless fork.
If you have ideas of shortening it to use as a threaded fork, be sure to think before you cut. I'd recommend adding the extra threads before cutting the fork.
Cutting extra threads into a steel steerer with a hand die is hard work. Adding a 1/4 inch or so of threads is one thing, cutting much more than that is another story. I don't even want to think about starting new threads from scratch using a hand die. If you hire somebody to do this work for you, I'd want to make sure that he's already successfully done a couple of others.