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Campy 10 derailleur, cable adjustment problem?(7 posts)
|Campy 10 derailleur, cable adjustment problem?||bianchi boy|
Dec 14, 2002 6:05 AM
|My Chorus group is shifting funky, with only about 1500 miles on a new chain and cassette. I hope it is not the chain wearing out -- as I have had poor wear from C-10 chains and cassette in the past -- but others report much better wear than I've been getting. So, I'm wondering if my shifting problems might be due to improper cable tension or derailleur adjustment. I'm currently using a C-10 chain with Wipperman connecting link and 13-29 Chorus cassette. I clean and lube the chain regularly with Prolink. Here are the symptoms:
-- Derailleur won't shift into the highest gear (13) reliably while riding, but seems to shift fine when it's on a work stand.
-- Chain skips over some of the middle gears in the cassette while shifting, unless you are very careful. For example, when riding and upshifting in 21 cog, it skips the 19 cog and jumps all the way to 17.
Any suggestions for adjusting my derailleur and/or cable tension (barrel adjusters) to correct this problem? Thanks in advance.
Dec 14, 2002 7:22 AM
|I have Chorus 10 with about 4,300 thousand miles on the driveline and replaced the chain at 3,000 miles and it works flawlessly. The only problem I ever had was when I installed new bar tape and wrapped it too tight on the bars around the rear der cable and it would not shift to a higher gear. It took around 2K until the cables were stretched and it seems like I have to make minor little adjustments with the downtube barrel adjusters now and then when I ride, but other than that it works perfect. I'm thinking it must be the Campy chain/Wipperman connecting link as I use the Campy 10 chain with whatever they call that Campy link that replaced the Perma Link. Perhaps just try replacing the Wipperman link with a Campy instead of a brand new chain for starters. As you know, you turn the downtube barrel adjusters to the left to tighten the slack on the cables. Also check the chain length. Other than that you got me...
Maybe one of those tech guys will pipe in with more details on what the problem could be...
Dec 14, 2002 9:33 AM
|The problems that you describe all involve shifting from a larger cog to a smaller cog. This is almost always a cable friction problem. Prolink makes a great cable lube, as does it's home-made equivalent a 4/1 mix of mineral spirits and oil. Every thousand miles or so I hang the bike from the rear wheel with the front wheel pointing down and dribble lube into the cable housings, so it will run down toward the ergo levers. Also lube the cable housing near the rear derailleur. If this doesn't fix it, you may need to replace the cables and housing.
If if you want to save a few bucks, you can purchase two campy shift cables separately and 5' of shimano or other generic brand lined shift cable housing for less than $20, compared to the $35 cost of a complete campy brake and shift cable set.
If the derailleur won't shift to the smallest cog, this could be both a cable tension issue and/or a stop screw adjustment problem. Be sure that the stop screw is not screwed in too far.
The problem could also be a derailleur spring that no longer produces sufficient force.
|Lube levers and cables, check chain||Kerry|
Dec 14, 2002 1:47 PM
|The three most obvious things to try, in order:
- sluice lube into the levers while shifting up and down through the range (WD40 followed by lube works too).
- lube cables with oil
- check chain for elongation. More than 1/16" in 24 links (12") means time for a chain change, and possibly new cogs to go with it.
The other poster's suggestion to check for cable bends is a good one, though since this problem has crept up on you, that seems less likely. Derailleur pivot lube seems in order too - can't hurt.
|re: One More||Mike Prince|
Dec 14, 2002 2:12 PM
|Check the under-BB cable guide, if this gets gunked up (as it can sometimes) it can cause the problems you describe. had the same symptoms this summer, a few sprays of Simple Green and a few drops of ProLink later things were as good as new.|
|thank for the suggestions||bianchi boy|
Dec 14, 2002 8:17 PM
|I'll give them a try. I fiddled with it on the stand before reading these replies, and it seemed like the cable tension was too slack. After lubing and rubbing down the chain real good, I tighted the barrel adjuster some and that seemed to help. But I haven't ridden it yet, so won't know for sure until I do. It could very well be that some dirt got on the cables under the BB as it's been muddy and wet in some of my recent rides due to the ice storm we had in NC a couples weeks ago. It also could be due for some cable lub, as it's been 3500 miles since I installed new cables. I sure hope it's not the chain because I am going broke replacing chains and cassettes on this bike.|
|For what it's worth...||DINOSAUR|
Dec 15, 2002 1:21 PM
|I always do my derailleur adjustments while I am riding, stopping to make little changes here and there. My bike will work fine in the garage but riding under load it acts differently. I remember when my Chorus group hit about 2K I had to do some messing with the cable slack, I turned the downtube barrel adjuster about 1/8 of a turn at a time until it fuctioned the way I wanted it to......|| |