|saddle height query||Noam|
Dec 12, 2002 12:40 AM
Is there any rule-of-thumb for quick saddle height positioning that does not require the measurments of leg length plus shoe sole thickness plus cleat thickness?.
|30 degrees knee bend at BDC, neutral ankle. Work from there. nm||Spunout|
Dec 12, 2002 4:40 AM
|Acronym BDC unknown here -- please explain! (nm)||mja|
Dec 12, 2002 5:28 AM
|Bottom Dead Centre - 6 o'clock. n,||Eager Beagle|
Dec 12, 2002 6:09 AM
|30 degrees knee bend at BDC, neutral ankle. Work from there. nm||Noam|
Dec 12, 2002 6:38 AM
|How do meassure this angle without the use of special tool?|
Dec 12, 2002 5:29 AM
|There is no height or leg angle that works best for everyone. Some folks can pedal effectively with the saddle quite high, forcing the toes to point down at the bottom of the stroke, with little bend in the leg. For others the optimum height is much lower.
At the minimum, I make sure that I can drop my heel about 2cm below horizontal with my leg locked out at the bottom of the stroke. This insures that my leg is not over- extended. From there, the height might need to be adjusted up or down up to 1cm. When you do arrive at the proper height and KOP, it will be evident by the smooth stroke and high cadence. If you're pedaling slow and choppy, keep adjusting.
|Good Starting Points||StewK|
Dec 12, 2002 7:25 AM
|With the pedal at about five o'clock (representing the longest straight line from saddle to pedal) set the saddle height so that your leg is straight and locked when you have you heel on the pedal. This allows a little bend in your knee when you're actually clipped in.
Another option is to take 110% of your inseam and make that the length from saddle to pedal when the pedal is at 5 o'clock.
|Do you mean 7 o'clock||Eager Beagle|
Dec 12, 2002 7:39 AM
|or are you looking from the other side? :-)|
|in CO, 5:00. East coast it would be 7:00...............;-) nm||Spunout|
Dec 12, 2002 8:46 AM
|Use heel touch at bottom of pedal stroke.||MXL02|
Dec 12, 2002 12:27 PM
|It has already been stated that the saddle height can be variable and needs to be determined for each individual. Heel touch at the bottom of the pedal stroke is a fairly routine starting point. You then want to raise the saddle as high as possible while maintaining a slight bend at the knee at the bottom of the stroke. The reason this is important is because studies have shown that saddle height is directly proportional to power output. Problems arise when it is too high causing toe pointing and/or pelvic rocking, which can rob you of power and cause knee and back strain.
Trial and error will get the right height for you...just experiment a little bit. Good luck.
|Trial and error worked for me...||DINOSAUR|
Dec 13, 2002 9:36 AM
|I had my wife help me set my saddle position way-back-when, 4 years ago, when I came back to cycling. Over the past 4 years I've messed with my saddle height mucho times and I kept rasing it as my condition improved and when it got too high I started having problems with my lower back. Too low and it doens't seem like I am pushing down far enough on the bottom of my stroke when I am climbing. When I finally found that magic spot I measured it so I know where to set the saddle if I ever purchase another bike. For the heck of it I used a couple of formulas for detemining saddle height and they were both way too low for my preferences (one was about 2 inches). But you have to take into consideration the type of pedals/shoes you are using, and I use arch supports which lowers my saddle a tad. And the brand of saddle makes a diff also a couple mm's one way or the other.
Finding the right saddle height is sort of a feeling you arrive at and done by experimenting. And it will change as your condition improves..that's what I've found anyway...
An old road dog once told me to go by what your body tells you for settings. I've arrived at my position while making small changes on my rides when my body tells me so. Just don't make too drastic of a change at once, it can lead to injury (done that, been there)...