|threading threadless fork steerer||eflayer|
Dec 9, 2002 5:04 PM
|If I wanted to go from threadless to threaded on my Profile BRC fork with chrom moly steerer, can it just be cut to length and threaded? I know I would need a different headset and stem, but I'd be able to raise my bars better by using a quilled stem.|
|re: threading threadless fork steerer||micha|
Dec 9, 2002 6:03 PM
|Cutting and subsequently chasing a thread onto a pipe means removing material. Your threadless Profile BRC fork steerer may not have the wall thickness to allow for that. Don't do it.|
|Eddie: query Sheldon Brown, he should know. nm||gogene|
Dec 9, 2002 8:14 PM
|Threading threadless fork steerer||Calvin|
Dec 10, 2002 6:45 AM
|Cutting threads certainly is possible. However, the steering tubes on some threadless columns are thin. The outside diameter is known (either 1-inch or 1-1/8 inch). Measure the ID. For the 1-inch fork, the ID needs to be 22.25 to 22.3mm. For the 1-1/8" the ID needs to be 25.45 to 25.5mm. |
It is generally best to allow a good shop to do the cutting.
|I was reading a post last week at rec.bicycles.tech||Dave Hickey|
Dec 10, 2002 8:44 AM
|There was a question asked about threading a threadless fork. The LBS threaded the fork and never looked at the ID of the steerer tube. After all that work, the quill stem was too big to fit inside the tube. Threaded forks are really pretty cheap. Nashbar had a straight blade carbon for about $80. I'd look around for a threaded fork instead.|
|I might be wrong, but I doubt it.||Spoke Wrench|
Dec 10, 2002 9:18 AM
|I've added a couple of extra threads to a threaded forks a couple of times and the experience taught me never to try to start the threads and do the whole thing. It's just too much HARD work with my hand die.
A couple of other issues:
Somebody already mentioned the wall thickness issue. When you cut threads with a die, you remove metal. That's going to make the fork weaker. Since bicyclists are so weight conscious and manufacturer's are so cost conscious, I'd suspect that any decent threadless fork is going to have a steer tube that has too little wall thickness to thread safely.
Headset adjustment on a threaded fork is sensitive to the accuracy of the threading job. Adding threads is one thing, starting threads is something else entirely. If you don't get the threads started perfectly square to the fork, youur headset will never adjust well.
All of this is kind of a long way to say that I doubt you'll find anyone who has done that kind of work before to thread a threadless fork for you.