|campy Veloce rear hub||wheel|
Dec 8, 2002 5:37 AM
|To service, clean & lube the rear hub bearings. Are the bearings removable without removing the freewheel. Question is, can I just remove the axle and will all come apart and go back together without special tools?? How might I find information?|
Dec 8, 2002 6:16 AM
|The campy website has instructions in pdf form that can be printed for your use.
I would recommend purchasing a chain whip and a splined cassette removal tool. These are basic tools than will pay for themselves quickly. You might as well remove the cassette and give everything a good cleaning. To reisntall the cassette, you should have a torque wrench.
|re: campy Veloce rear hub||curlybike|
Dec 8, 2002 8:01 AM
|You will need 1/4 and 7/32 new balls to do the job properly. Old balls should not be reused. You will have to remove the cassette and casette carrier to service the hub easily. I us an old dental pick to remove the inner seal on the drive side, you will need to remove it to properly clean and examine the outer race. Use dental floss to contain the pawls ans springs after you clean and lube them. Then you can slide everything together and then unwind the floss while the pawls are down in the ratchet teeth. Do not pinch the o-ring between the carrier and hub body, it might get cut. These are things that are not obvious when looking at the pdf.|
|Your old balls||Kerry|
Dec 8, 2002 4:38 PM
|You do not need new bearings to overhaul a Campy hub unless there is damage. This can be seen by cleaning up the balls - if they are still shiny, you don't need new ones. I've used the same set of Campy hub, pedal, and BB bearings for 20+ rebuilds, 90K miles, over 16 seasons. The bike rolled just as fast when I sold it as when I bought it. If you do buy new bearings, unless you get them from Campy, you'll take a big hit in bearing quality compared to those in the hub now.|
|Your old balls||curlybike|
Dec 8, 2002 9:08 PM
|According to the supplier, UBP, the bearings I use match campy specs. Of course, that is what they are selling, eh? I am glad to learn that someone has had good results cleaning and reusing. It is just easier to pitch and replace. Thanks for the input.|
|Your old balls||Spunout|
Dec 9, 2002 9:06 AM
|Probably safe to say that old Campy bearings that are still shiny are that way because they 'fit' the cones and cups better, and have polished themselves into fitting even better than factory spec.
This is the beauty of Campagnolo, don't change them!
|Question your supplier||Kerry|
Dec 9, 2002 4:52 PM
|I don't know the situation today, though I have no reason to believe it has changed. About the best grade of bearings available is grade 10, which means that the bearings are all within 10 microns of their nominal size. Most suppliers consider grade 25 to be very good bearings, and IIRC Nashbar was proudly selling grade 100 bearings. Campy would get the QC reports from their bearing suppliers, and pick lots of bearings that were within 1 micron of their spec., effectively giving them grade 1 bearings, which cannot be purchased. Ask your bearing supplier what grade bearings they have - if they are not grade 1, then they likely do not meet Campy spec. BTW, the reason for having such a tight spec is that the bearings will not only roll better, but they will not wear nearly as fast because the clearances are precise.|
|Question your supplier||curlybike|
Dec 9, 2002 5:43 PM
|Thanks for the well written reply, I just checked the specs and as you suggested they were grade 25. Thanks for the info.|
|The new balls should have the "Diamond C" stamped on them||SnowBlind|
Dec 9, 2002 11:30 AM
|to ensure they are really Campy parts. :-)|| |