|Right axle pulling out of dropout on initial crank torque?||MXL02|
Dec 1, 2002 4:56 AM
|I have recently started having a problem with my right axle unseating when I first start pedaling. Note: this is often after I have changed wheels and my chain is on the 12 or 11. This pulls the tire against the left chain stay. I has happened with synchos, salsa, and Mavic skewers. I can hog-tighten them down to help, but could this be an alignment problem with the dropouts? It just started happening. The bike and dropouts are steel, and my LBS said its because the skewers can't get a good purchase on steel...if the dropouts were aluminum, it wouldn't be a problem. I know the obvious answer is to put the chain on a larger cog before starting, but it seems like racing bikes are supposed allow for hard torqueing on the cranks. Any help would be appreciated.|
Dec 1, 2002 5:43 AM
|The vertical or near vertical dropouts used on many new frames have eliminated this problem.
If you have horizontal steel dropouts with an aluminum faced skewer and an aluminum axle on the the hub (now quite common), your LBS is probably right. The soft aluminum can't a grip on the steel dropout.
As you've noted, the obvious answer is not to start out in a small cog. Most cyclists quickly learn to shift to a larger cog just before a stop. Otherwise it's painfully slow to get started again.
|Force comes from the right||Calvin Jones-Park Tool|
Dec 1, 2002 6:00 AM
|The wheel is pulled from the right, so the right side tends to be the one to move.
If the wheel is pulling out, it simply is not in securely. There have been steel frames for many years, and this should not be considered an oddity. However, if the skewer lacks the force necessary, consider replacing the skewer. The skewer uses a cam design, and manufacturers vary in the design. Some of the so called "open cam" designs do not hold as secure as the closed type. Also, some skewers have knurling to held is getting a purchase on the dropout.
Make sure there is some lubricant in the lever pivots. Generally, resistance at the lever should begin about 1/2 way through the swing from open to closed.
The skewer in the image below is an open cam type.
|Try Shimano/Campy QR with the lever on the side...||TFerguson|
Dec 1, 2002 7:41 AM
|I had the same problem on my steel Bianchi with horizontal dropouts. I used two sets of wheels. The Shimano QRs never pulled out. The newer type Rolfs would come out at least once a ride. I switched the Rolfs QRs to Ultegra no more problems.
|re: Right axle pulling out of dropout on initial crank torque?||curlybike|
Dec 1, 2002 8:12 AM
|Make sure that the axle stub that fits into the dropout is not longer than the dropout is thick. I suggest this because the axle may have been reassembled improperly after cleaning and packing. Make sure to get the shop to make sure the dropout faces are parallel, if they have gotten tweaked, the clamping force of the QR will be diminished by the amount of force it takes to bend the dropout back square.|
|re: Right axle pulling out of dropout on initial crank torque?||Lactate Junkie|
Dec 2, 2002 4:31 PM
|Another problem is that once the wheel has slipped once, the little teeth on the lock nut on the hub are probably worn off. You will need to replace the lock nut on the hub so that the teeth are sharp and dig into the dropout a bit when you tighten the skewer.|
Dec 4, 2002 1:46 PM
|Of course in my case it was just my massive torque overloading the entire frame/wheel system :)
Be sure the QR has oil or greese at its pivot. The difference in clamp force/hand force is huge when the QR is lubed. My Ti skewers were slipping on my stainless steel dropouts. I found that oiling the QR and clamping it tight solved the problem. Don't settle for a wheel that slips in any gear, it will slip when you jump to sprint in a race.
D/A or Ultegra QRs seem to be less prone to this issue compared to open cam designs, though I don't know why.