|mavic open pro CD||Gall|
Nov 27, 2002 9:49 PM
whats the difference between the open pro CD and the regular open pro?
|Stick with the regular OP unless||Kerry|
Nov 28, 2002 4:25 PM
|The CD means much more money for a ceramic impregnated sidewall. Great stopping power in the wet because you essentially have fine grit sand imbedded in the braking surface. Eats brake pads. If you plan to do a lot of descending on twisty roads in the rain, this is the rim for you. Otherwise, you might keep that cash in your pocket.|
|Stick with the regular OP unless||mcteague|
Nov 29, 2002 1:29 PM
|Actually, CD and ceramic are not the same. According to Mavic:
This type of adonization process reinforces the oxide layer that forms on the aluminum profile surface.
On the surface of the rim, a greater micro-hardness is obtained.
Mavic has optimized the Ceramic procedure to offer more efficient braking and greater resistance to shocks and chipping.
A plasma beam torch spreads titanium and aluminum oxide powders on the sidewalls of the rim.
This coating creates a thermal insulator and gives exceptional hardness to the sidewalls of the rim (30 times greater than aluminum)."
Of course much of this may be hogwash but better wet braking seems to be a real feature, as does rapid brake block wear. The CD only seems to be more fashion than anything else. No real data seems to exist to back up their claims. I remember the Open 4CD that did not stop well at all untill the black sidewall became all scratched up. Looked like crap at that point but at least they worked better. Get silver Open Pros or black anodized if you value form over function.
Nov 30, 2002 6:22 PM
|Sorry, I messed up on the designation of the rim. Yes, the CD is hard anodized, which means the anodization layer is thicker than on a regular OP. This is not a good thing, as the anodized layer is more brittle, and any stress cracks (at the spoke holes, primarily) give rise to more rapid cracking of the rim. Hard anodization was all the rage in the early 80s, and proved to be a generally bad idea. It's kind of surprising the MAVIC still offers this option.|
|CD or CD Ceramic?||Niemand|
Nov 29, 2002 3:35 AM
|CD coating is anodising of the rim that is meant to increase wear resistance. You get all black rims, but it does wear off pretty quick, especially in the wet. I have CD rims, and I probably wouldn't spec them again, its not really worth the extra cost.
CD Ceramic is as described. Meant to be better in the wet; but again for double the price I am dubious.
|CD or CD Ceramic?||JFST|
Nov 29, 2002 3:04 PM
|I used to own a set of CD openpro's. I had them not necessarily because I wanted the feature, I just got a good deal on them. It turned out to be kind of nice because it reduces corrosion. I live next to the beach and ride mostly in roads that run parallel to the ocean so the bike is constantly getting hit by salty air and winds. The CD rims didn't develop that white/greenish corrosion aluminim gets after a while. One thing I didn't like was that the anodization along the braking surface as well seemed to reduce braking power considerably in wet conditions. Basically if you ride in an area that subjects the bike to corrosion this might be a good choice.|
|re: mavic open pro CD||Jofa|
Nov 29, 2002 3:11 PM
|The hard anodizing of the CD version is cosmetic. Unfortunately it is also relatively inflexible, and is microscopically crazed by the time the rim has been rolled into a hoop (think, paint on an elastic band). These cracks concentrate stresses and are liable to induce rim failure, usually around the spoke sockets.
Equally unfortunately, the silver and black versions are anodized also, and consequently suffer the same problem, presumably to a lesser degree. The problem is not so great that it should prevent your use of the rim design, but it is a shame. Mavic don't make the rim they should, an Open Pro 'nothing' with a lacquer coat. They used to, and called it the MA2. SOme shops might still have some lying around.