|Seeking opinions on stiffest cranks||McAndrus|
Nov 9, 2002 7:33 PM
|I have two bikes and am considering upgrading the crankset on one of them next spring. I'm wondering if I can get opinions on which of these three cranksets is the most stiff:
One of my bikes already has a Record crankset and I'm very happy with it but if Dura Ace or FSA is considered more stiff then I'll consider them as well.
Direct or hearsay evidence is welcome. Thanks.
|what good are opinions??||C-40|
Nov 10, 2002 5:21 AM
|I don't understand requests for opinions that are worthless for the most part. Objective test results would be of value.
You don't mention your weight. At 135-140, any crank will be stiff enough for me.
You don't mention whether the driverain is 9 or 10 speed. I'd be more concerned with shifting performance. Campy made improvments to the chainrings for 2003, to improve shifting, although it's already excellent. Other brands are not likely to shift as well.
Bottom brackets should also be considered. The DuraAce BB still uses a lockring that requires another special tool. Campy's BB uses the same splined tool to install the BB and the cassette lockring.
There have been numerous complaints about the longevity of the DA BB on this site. Many folks suggest using the cheaper and heavier Ultegra BB as a improvement.
|splined generally stiffer than taper||weiwentg|
Nov 10, 2002 5:30 AM
|a German magazine reviewed MTB cranks and proved it. search MTBR for 'crank stiffness'.
I personally think that DA is the most cost-effective stiff crank. I weigh even less than C-40 does, so stiffness is mostly academic to me. but it's light, you can get DA for a heck of a lot less than FSA, and its stiff. if you don't ride in the rain, go with the DA BB. if you do, either get ready to baby your DA unit, or go Ultegra.
|splined generally stiffer than taper||scorpionking|
Nov 10, 2002 9:50 PM
|You'll get flex from your chain long before you get affected by crank junction flex. This type of flex tends to be wildly over exagerated by riders who claim they flex cranks and so on. It may occur in rare instances to an extremely small degree, but for the most part its guys flexing something else, either their chain, their pedal spindle or frame and not knowing what they are flexing.|
|splined generally stiffer than taper||weiwentg|
Nov 11, 2002 9:09 PM
|this is why I said stiffness is mainly academic. I'll be the first to admit that I have not personally flexed any crank. I did manage to flex my Allez A1 at the bottom bracket (105 triple, splined). the deflections that magazine measured are not very large; heavier mountain bikers might notice some flex, but lighter road riders probably won't.|
Nov 11, 2002 8:58 AM
|The DA BB isn't really a big deal - I've been running one for three years, in the rain and everything else I can throw at it. The key difference is that you have to pay attention to your bike and do the routine maintenance. If you want a BB that you can install once and never touch again then the Ultegra is your best choice. However, care and feeding of the DA BB is no more a chore than taking care of the rest of the bike when I have it up on the stand. |
In the end you really can't beat the DA splined crank with hollow crank arms for price/performance/weight and one should really pay attention to the quality of the chainrings - that's the itme that's going to wear out and where costs get cut.
|Doesn't matter||Eager Beagle|
Nov 11, 2002 1:48 AM
|This, IMHO, is a classic "RBR Urban myth".
Any reasonable make of Crank won't flex. Put them in a vice and hang on them to try it. Properly mounted unworn cranks don't flex on unworn BBs - ditto. BBs don't flex - ditto.
I am 210 lbs, and have never had anything other than the frame/forks/wheels flex on a bike. Including, D-A, 105, Record, Daytona, Centuar, STX, Altus, etc etc.
Get whichever of those you fancy, fit them properly (meaning use the right torque settings, and check them a few times after first fitting) and none will flex. Period.
So, down to price/cosmetics.
Nov 11, 2002 6:22 PM
|Totally concur. A myth created in a marketing attempt to sell aftermarket cranks and BB's which are supposedly stiffer. Remember also, a crankarm is not statically attached like it would be in a vice. As you pedal it actually rotates away from your pedal stroke and dissapates lots of your input power into the drivetrain. It is virtually humanly impossible for someone to pedal hard enough to be flexing the crank arm or crank/BB junction. Lots of hype on this topic, lots and lot of nonsensical bullsheot and no fact. I get a total kick out of reading idiot posts from the genius who rides 50-100 miles a week, isn't even CAT 5 licensed, but brags on and on how he just bought a new carbon fiber crank and it flexes so much less than his old alloy crank, what a load of sheot. Sad thing is, uninformed newbies read this garbage and then actually believe the crap thrown on the wall as fact.|| |