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Crank puller problems(14 posts)

Crank puller problemsrohickman
Nov 8, 2002 2:48 PM
Hi there! I am trying to remove my crank arms using Park's crank arm puller and am not succeeding. Exactly how hard do you have to turn? I have turned it as hard as I can by hand and it hasn't budged. My next resort would be to get the rubber mallet and start pounding. But I certainly don't want to strip the soft alloy threads on the arm. Never having done this before, I am uncertain. Any advice on this would be gratefully appreciated.
re: Crank puller problemsCalvin
Nov 8, 2002 2:58 PM
Make sure there is no washer inside. Use an adjustable wrench and tighten down the nut fully inside the arm.

Are you using the correct puller? Does the arm have a square or round spindle end? It can take quite a bit of force to remove some arms. If the puller does not do it, tapping with a rubber mallet is very unlikely to work. Also see http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQrCarm.shtml
re: Crank puller problemsrohickman
Nov 8, 2002 9:16 PM
Calvin - Thank you very much for the Park Tool link. It was very helpful. Yes! I have a square-spindle and am using what looks to be the perfect tool (Park CWP-5). Sooooo, should I just muscle it as hard as I can???????????? What might Plan B be?
if it's an older puller........Rusty McNasty
Nov 8, 2002 3:32 PM
....and a newer splined crank, you need an adaptor. If you didn't use the adapter, you just messed up your crank big-time!!
You did remove the crank bolt, right? (nm)Kerry
Nov 9, 2002 7:03 AM
You did remove the crank bolt, right? (nm)rohickman
Nov 9, 2002 9:07 AM
I'm assuming you mean the hex head that threads on a dust cap? Yes! I would need to remove that in order to thread in the crank puller tool. Is there something else I'm missing?
Perhaps:Alexx
Nov 9, 2002 11:22 AM
If this is an "old-style" crank, where the cover is threaded into the crank arm, there will be a 13(14?)mm bolt underneath, and it has to come out first. That's what holds the crank in. If you don't remove this bolt, you will only fvck up the crank threads.
If it's a "new-style" crank, where the allen bolt on the outside is actually screwed into the spindle, you don't need to remove anything. HOWEVER, this type crank requires a slightly smaller contact, and if your puller is more than a couple of years old, you will need to buy the needed adapter, or else you will destroy the crank seat face trying to pull it out.
Perhaps:rohickman
Nov 9, 2002 11:52 AM
No, there's no bolt and the cover threads on to the spindle - so I guess I have the "new style". It looks just like the picture in the Park Tools link that the first responder attached. The crank puller is less than 2 years ago. I can place the "contact point" of the tool right on the face of the spindle without any interference. I've sprayed WD-40 but what about hand position? I'm working on the left crank arm and am pushing down with the crescent wrench on the tool and pulling up on the crank arm. Doesn't the vertical force from my right hand on the crank arm provide resistance to horizontal movement?
Hey! Thanks! But I'm Still Having Problems!!!! :-(rohickman
Nov 9, 2002 6:26 PM
Hey! You guys have been helpful but unfortunately, I'm still in the same boat I was before I started this discussion.
Last resort: heat.micha
Nov 10, 2002 3:15 AM
Assuming you've done everything correctly, your last resort is heat. Warm the crank until a drop of water splashed on it will sizzle. Tap the crank gently with a rubber mallet to break it loose.
Last resort: heat.rohickman
Nov 10, 2002 9:07 AM
OK! If I use a blow torch, is there a chance I could melt the aluminum or anything else close by that will wick up the heat????
Heat yes, blowtorch NO!!!!!Kerry
Nov 10, 2002 11:10 AM
Use hot water on a rag (handle with gloves) to heat the crank. Do not, repeat DO NOT use any open flame on the crank. If some hot/cold repeats don't work, then take it to a bike shop. Getting out the blow torch = throwing away the crank set.
OK! Thanks! That sounds like a Safe Plan B!rohickman
Nov 11, 2002 12:26 PM
Negative!grzy
Nov 12, 2002 8:45 AM
You should be looking at using a special puller called a "bearing splitter". I've used one and they work great. It's basically a variation on a wheel puller with a special grip to go around the crank arm.