|Campy Ergo Shifter Problem - HELP!||Me Dot Org|
Oct 17, 2002 9:58 AM
|I've been having a problem for nearly 2 months that is driving me NUTS. I have been to several different bike shops, and none can fix it.
My bike has a Campy Racing Triple (3x9) drivetrain, about a year old, with about 7,000 miles on it. Recently (the past 2 months) I have encountered 3 problems:
1. The shifting is sloppy (the chain will 'hunt' back and forth between 2 cogs on some shifts)
2. When on the big cog in the back and the middle cog in the front, while going up a hill under a good load, the chain will jump off the middle ring to the little ring in front.
3. While on the big cog in the back and the little cog in the front, while going up a hill under a good load, the chain will jump off the little ring onto the frame.
I've had the following work performed:
Rebuilt the right side ergo shifter (controlling the rear cassette)
Replaced the rear cassette
Replaced the chain
Replaced the middle front chainring
Replaced the shifter cables with Airborne pre-stretched Teflon cables.
There is no play in the crank, and I can't see any frame cracks. The bottom bracket appears solid.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
|re: Campy Ergo Shifter Problem - HELP!||weiwentg|
Oct 17, 2002 10:32 AM
|I hope this isn't a stupid question, but is the derailleur limit set properly? have the shops ever set up anything with Campy? my LBS didn't get any bikes with Campy until this year. also, perhaps your chain is worn?|
|Check the chain line as per Campy specs. (nm)||Spunout|
Oct 17, 2002 10:47 AM
|re: Campy Ergo Shifter Problem - HELP!||Sawyer|
Oct 17, 2002 12:18 PM
|Try to check the deral. hanger if its true. I did a few of these in my previous LBS and it solved the problem. Not sure if you want to invest in that tool but it sure helps when you dropped a frame or the bike fell on the drive side.|
|re: Campy Ergo Shifter Problem - HELP!||JohnG|
Oct 17, 2002 12:47 PM
|front ring jumps are probably caused by you setting the der incorrectly.
rear cog jumps could be caused by a variety of issues:
incorrect little cog stop and or incorrect trim
bad cable assembly (I don't recommend the change you made)..... IMHO, go back to Campy cables!!!!!
gunk/goo/sticky-water-bottle stuff all over the BB cable guide.
It's unlikely (but possible) it's the ergo shifter. Although, a LBS doing a "rebuild" on an ergo shifter assembly is a pretty scary thought. Most of these guys are boderline retards and or ham-fisted JA's.
How do the teeth on the rear cog look?? What chain did you use???? If it's ANYTHING other than a Campy C10 chain replace it!!
|Yeah, what JohnG said. (nm)||Spunout|
Oct 17, 2002 4:51 PM
|re: C10 on a racing triple?||ThirtyFive|
Oct 17, 2002 5:03 PM
|Did you mean C-9? Just want to be clear guy is probably going nuts and willing to try anything at this point..|
|doah, I was thinking Rec triple not "racing" triple...... C9 nm||JohnG|
Oct 17, 2002 6:49 PM
|re: Campy Ergo Shifter Problem - HELP!||BenR|
Oct 17, 2002 9:36 PM
|For the front:
1. check chain-line or have a shop you trust do it. make sure they know campy parts well. I'm no mechanic by any means but can quite often do better than most shops that generally deal with Shimano parts.
2. Are your chain rings secure? check the bolts - I had the same problem on my Shimano crank and was stumped until I checked the bolts, found a couple that were a tad loose and qucikly solved the problem.
For the rear:
messed up chainline might affect rear shifting if it is way off. This may be the case if your shifting is inconsistently sloppy, like only at the ends of the cassette, or sloppy only while you are in the big or little ring in the front.
Other people mentioned hanger alignment. Also check to make sure your derailleur is dialed in - I believe Campy tells you to shift to the 4th smallest cog and use the barrel adjuster, then make sure the other cogs work well too.
Is your chain the correct length? Overly streched derailleurs don't function well, as there is a lot of stress on them and the pulleys are pulled farther away from the cogs. This isn't likely though if this problem developed slowly.
I've had a lot of grief with my cables, particularly on an internal routing frame. I thought I had a bent hanger, worn cogs, etc. Turns out it was bad quality cables that I had bought from my LBS to build up my bike with. My experience with my 10 speed set up is that it is best to just spend the money and buy the campy ergolever cable & housing set. A good set is worthless though, unless you are patient and competent enough to make clean cuts and measure housing to the correct length. Unless you know what you are doing, it's worth it to take it to a good shop and have them do it.
You could have a compound problem so I would try to solve the front problem first and see if that fixes the rear as well. Then check hanger alignment and try replacing cables after that. good luck, I've been down this road and understand the frustration. Campy either works wonderfully or not at all. Shimano always kind of works.
|re: Campy Ergo Shifter Problem - HELP!||mackgoo|
Oct 18, 2002 10:21 AM
|This seems odd that this would happen after 7K. Did you have this work performed and then all of this started to happen? The chain ring problems definately seem odd, it would appear to be chain line more than anything. I know you said that the crank is tight. If you put the chain on the middle chain ring and one of the middle cogs how does the line look?
Again for this to happen after 7K seems odd. What did you do prior?
The rear shifting does sound like cables, but I guess if your chain line is off then that could cause it also.
You can reposistion your bottom bracket by loosening one cup and tightening the other side.
|Not many Campy BB are laterally adj. anymore.N/M||curlybike|
Oct 18, 2002 3:14 PM
|Not many Campy BB are laterally adj. anymore.N/M||mackgoo|
Oct 18, 2002 6:52 PM
|The one I had with my racing tripple was, that was on an 8sp though, the 9sp may be different.
It's just after setting the stops on a front derailuer especially, then all of a sudden they don't limit any more something has physically changed. Maybe they didn' torque the crank arm back on all the way and they adjusted the outer limit. That could cause this.