|Follow-up question on Cassette removal tools||MXL02|
Sep 27, 2002 3:08 AM
|Branford bike site states that the Park Sr1 chain whip will not work with Campy 10 sp cassettes...have to use the SR2 with a special adaptor, or a campy chain whip for $70! Is this accurate?|
|re: Follow-up question on Cassette removal tools||Calvin|
Sep 27, 2002 3:13 AM
|We have tested both the SR-1 and SR-2 chains with the Campagnolo 10 speed cassettes, and find they both work well without any issues. |
|Thanks Calvin/Park Tools: Great post! What about Chain tools?||Spunout|
Sep 27, 2002 3:30 AM
|FR-5 Tools and 10-Speed chain tools||Calvin|
Oct 1, 2002 5:09 AM
|Regarding the idea of a 3/8" drive for the FR-5: |
I am always in favor of using a torque wrench when possible. The FR-5, however, is a simple and affordable tool. The design of the lockring teeth of the lockring is such that you must use the quick release to hold the tool in place. Another option is the FRG-1, see
A tool using a 3/8" drive must have a holding system build in place. This is of course possible but this would raise the price of the tool. We have found that bicycle tools are very price sensitive. In any case an alternative is to use a 3/8" drive is a deep well 1" socket.
Regarding a chain tool for the Campagnolo 10 Speed Chain:
All Park Tool chain tools will shorten the 10 speed chains. However, Campagnolo recommends only their tool for installation of the HD-link.
|Hey, why does'nt park make a cassette/bb tool with a standard||SnowBlind|
Sep 27, 2002 8:55 AM
|3/8 drive so I can actally use a torque wrench on it without buying a socket sized for the tool?
That way I could torque my BB and casettes properly.
|I second the need for the 3/8" drive !! (nm)||TFerguson|
Sep 27, 2002 12:31 PM
Sep 28, 2002 10:34 AM
|Get a "crow's foot" for your torque wrench and then do the adjustment calculation due to the increased lever arm. Instructions should come with the torque wrench. In any event I don't know a single mechanic that uses a torque wrench for securing the cassette lock ring. Yes, I know the spec is printed right on the ring, but it's right up there with the "lather, rinse, repeat" instructions on a shampoo bottle. When does one actually stop repeating? ;-) Just give it a SWAG and go. Unless you're arms are severely under developed you will have no problems. Got 30 years of doing it this way.|
|Any idea how they came up with that torque spec?||Spoke Wrench|
Sep 28, 2002 2:13 PM
|I mean it works out to be about 30 ft/lbs. That's HUGE. I'm afraid to crank on those things anywhere near that hard.
I'm a strong believer in using torque wrenches, but the only things on a bike that I use them for are bottom brackets, cranks, and high end stem bolts.
|Uh, they're mechanical engineers? (nm)||Kerry|
Sep 28, 2002 5:37 PM
|Any idea how they came up with that torque spec?||grzy|
Sep 30, 2002 8:01 AM
|Torque specs are based on the straight forward analysis of the shear strength of the threaded assembly in question, which of course depends upon the thread size, number of threads, pitch, diameter, material, etc. and the appropriate factor of safety. 30 ft-lb really isn't too much for this application - you're dealing with a lot of steel. See Mark's Standard Handbook for Mechanical Engineers for a quick reference or any of the good engineering texts on the subject of mechanical components and design for more details.|
|or a 1" socket nm||DougSloan|
Sep 28, 2002 6:42 PM
|He thought that was too hard. -nm||grzy|
Sep 30, 2002 2:30 PM
|I have no response to that. nm||DougSloan|
Sep 30, 2002 2:48 PM