|Mavic Open Pro - CD or not?||koride|
Sep 16, 2002 6:58 PM
|I saw some earlier discussion on this topic, but no real answers...I'm looking at purchasing some Mavic Open Pro rims...should I go with the CD anodized coating (not the CD ceramic) or just the plain black? Is the CD coating that much better? I cant imagine a grey wheel as opposed to black, but that's just considering looks.
Also, is the clicking a wide epidemic? Should I get these?
Thanks in advance
Sep 17, 2002 3:37 AM
|The hard anodizing used on the CD rims is even more prone to propagate cracks through the rim, than the ordinary anodizing used on the silver and black versions. No surface treatment at all (but lacquer of some sort) would be best, but apparently we aren't allowed that.
The clicking comes from the spoke sockets. It is fairly common and can be annoying, but is easily dealt with by dropping a few drops of oil into the socket periodically. Otherwise these rims are OK. But my recommendation is still for the now rare (discontinued) but far better Mavic MA2's. They are the best rims I know of, and are very cheap: if you can find them, buy a few.
|The CD will wear off and look bad inside of 500 miles.||Quack|
Sep 17, 2002 10:40 AM
|I would stay away from the CD version, I use a set as rain wheels and they are ugly. If you know you will never have abrasive material between your pads and the rim, they should be fine. But I would opt for the regular rims. As far as the clicking goes, I think your chances of getting a rim that clicks is about 1 in 10.
There are many theories regarding the source of the click and how to remedy it. The best remedy I've come up with is to dip your entire built wheel into a barrel of 10w40, that way all the nipples, spokes, cassette, hub will be friction free and will not click, pop, or creak.
Seriously though, of the clicking rims that I've seen, the plug that holds the rim joint together during the weld process has let go and is free to rattle around during use. Most often, you will hear the click when the rim-joint is in contact with the road. If you happen to have a rim that goes bad out of warranty and is still in good shape, light adhesive worked into the plug will usually keep the clicking in check.
|Skip the CD||Nessism|
Sep 17, 2002 11:52 AM
|The hard anodized surface is not a very good surface to run brakes on since is it fairly hard and slippery. I have both types of rims and the non-coated rims brake much better.
BTW, the colored rims are anodized also but are not "hard anodized" like the CD rims. The colored anodizing process is different and does not significantly harden the metal which can lead to cracks. Also, the colored rims are anodized before the sidewall is machined so the brake surface is just raw aluminum.
|I say yes!||cyclequip|
Sep 19, 2002 5:53 AM
|Had both types for years. The CD is a better wearing rim by far - also harder and more durable than the painted version (which has a single as opposed to double anodising process). Also much better for wet braking (nearly as good as the Ceramic) and the looks don't matter worth a damn. Ever wondered why it's the rim of choice for pro's?|| |