|installing a new Campy 10 chain||bianchi boy|
Sep 9, 2002 7:07 AM
|Well, I'm going back to the Campy 10 chain after less-than satisfactory wear from two Wipperman nickle chains. I do, however, like the Wipperman/Connex link and had planned to use one on my new C-10 chain. As I was getting ready to install the C-10 chain, I couldn't help but notice a tag Campy attached to the last link (an open one) on the chain. The tag reads: "Warning! To shorten chain, remove links from the opposite side (end) of the chain. NEVER remove or modify this link in anyway whatsoever."
Well, to install the C-10 chain using the Connex link, I would need to remove this ominous link -- as you need two inner links to attach the Connex. Should I be concerned about the Campy warning? Will my bike be haunted by a poltergeist if I take it off? Will the chain go up in a cloud of smoke? At this point, I almost would prefer letting a bike shop handle it, but I know they wouldn't be too thrilled if I wheeled my bike in with a chain and cassette I bought somewhere else. So I would prefer to install the chain myself using the Connex link, as the installation instructions for the new C-10 connecting link look rather complicated and call for yet another special Campy tool. Any advice from someone who's been down this path?
|re: installing a new Campy 10 chain||KurtVF|
Sep 9, 2002 7:18 AM
|The 10 speed chains I bought in the spring didn't have this warning. Probably BS to scare you into buying some other stupid overpriced Campy link and tool. Once that link is off the bike drive a wooden stake through it and bury it, then it can't hurt you.|
Sep 10, 2002 3:31 AM
Sep 9, 2002 8:30 AM
|One end of the new connector link is already attached to the chain. If this link is going to be used, links obviously have to be removed from the opposite end of the chain, so the special pin can be installed in the "virgin" holes of the connector link's outer plates.
If you want to eliminate the campy connector link, just remove links from the and of the chain with the connector link. Once it's gone, it's sure not going to be a problem.
|thanks, guys||bianchi boy|
Sep 9, 2002 12:22 PM
|Slapped that chain and a new cassette on my bike this afternoon using the Connex link. It sure is easy to install. I sprinkled some herbs on my bike to ward off any potential problems from the ghost of Mr. Campagnolo.|
Sep 9, 2002 1:25 PM
|We have 3 C-10 bikes living in our house. Since April of 2000 we have been doing homebrew chain installs on Campag 10 chains by removing the stupid (im)Permalink and just doing it the old-school way. No Wipperman, no Permalink, nada.
Both of us are serious racers who get rough on our bikes in all kinds of conditions. My boyfriend is a 200-lb frame-bending sprinter who's had the dubious honor of destroying every drivetrain part known to man; he even sheared several teeth off his (road) outer chainring once, don't ask me how. He has destroyed so many rear wheels / cassettes / hubs that he has been permanently banned from using my 303s. One of my bikes is a 'cross bike that I regularly abuse as a primary commuter / rain bike.
If we haven't been able to break C-10 chains doing installs this way, I somehow doubt that you'll have trouble. We have been regularly getting 3000+ miles per chain.
|use a connector link...||C-40|
Sep 9, 2002 2:10 PM
|Reassembling any of the new flush-pin 10 speed chains in the same manner as the old protruding-pin 7/8/9 speed chains is asking for trouble. A special connector link like the Wipperman "connex" is critical for maximum safety. The reason is simple. The flush-pins are much more heavily peened than older style protruding pins. Whenever the mushroomed end of a flush-pin is pushed through the sideplate, it does a lot more damage to the hole in the sideplate. This hole will not provide any significant hold on the pin, once it's reinstalled.
The Wipperman chain, for example, has extremely heavy peening on the ends of the pins. When I shortened one of these chains, it actually left metal shavings in my hand as evidence of the damage.
The Wipperman link is a simple and inexpensive solution to joining a campy chain too. That's what I'm using now. It's a perfect fit.
The consequences of a broken chain can be extreme. I wouldn't risk my life to avoid spending $5 on a connector link.
|LFR, but what/whose tool to manage the C-10 chain? (nm)||Spunout|
Sep 9, 2002 3:54 PM
|plain ol' Park chain tool (nm)||lonefrontranger|
Sep 10, 2002 6:03 AM
|Why do they have the link then?||ColnagoFE|
Sep 10, 2002 6:25 AM
|I'm sure this works for you and I know I'd like a better solution after busting 2 Permalinks (one original and one "improved" permalink). Don't you think not using a link is a bit risky? Especially for racing? I've heard a good solution is to use the IRD or Wipperman link with the C-10 chain. I also had decent results using a SRAM 9s link when my first Permalink went bad.|
|Why do they have the link then?||Spunout|
Sep 10, 2002 6:48 AM
|Who knows. If you are handy and have a chain tool in PERFECT working order, it should be simple. If I did this though, I'd carry a wipperman with my spare.
Then again, if I had a wipperman link on my chain, I'd still carry a spare one.
|good point, we have a Park CT-2 (pliers type)||lonefrontranger|
Sep 10, 2002 8:24 AM
|This is the only chain tool I'll ever use. IME the screw types just don't work, at all.|
|tell me about it||ColnagoFE|
Sep 10, 2002 1:24 PM
|i had to cobble together my c-10 chain roadside with a Park mini chain tool after the "permalink" exploded. I'm still surprised it got me home. I rode it pretty easy though.|
|re: installing a new Campy 10 chain||da cyclist|
Sep 10, 2002 8:53 PM
|You may have heard this before, but bianchi just told me to throw a dura-ace chain on my bike (campy 10 speed). I did and while it's not a quiet as the campy chain, it works just fine and is definitely easier to take off and put back on should the need arise.|| |