RoadBikeReview.com's Forum Archives - Components


Archive Home >> Components(1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 )


Changing from threaded to threadless .(3 posts)

Changing from threaded to threadless .GEORGIADOG
Aug 31, 2002 8:41 AM
Going to upgrade my older bike over the winter with a new fork and wanting to go threadless. What are some the factors that you have consider when acquiring parts so that everything matches up. Also I would like to get some feedback on the Easton EC90 forks and handlebars, thanks guys!
re: Changing from threaded to threadless .Dave Hickey
Aug 31, 2002 11:00 AM
To change to threadless you're going to need a new fork, stem, aheadset, and probably spacers. You say it's an older bike so it probably has a 1" steerer tube. Measure it to make sure. Forks, aheadsets, and spacers come in either 1" or 1 1/8". Most road bike stems are 1 1/8" with a shim to convert to 1".
re: Changing from threaded to threadless .jjohnson05
Aug 31, 2002 12:20 PM
Everything the previous poster said is true. You will need all of those parts, and whether or not your bike requires a 1 or 1-1/8 fork is easy to determine. However, there are two other considerations that are VERY critical. Getting either one wrong can make you wish you had never lusted after that really cool carbon fork. Get them both right and it will be the biggest improvement you can make to your bike other than wheels. the two condiserations are blade length and rake. To determine the right blade length, measure the distance from the top of the slot on your dropout to the seat of the crown race at the top of the fork crown. That measurement could be from about 355-375mm. It may take some effort, but look a new fork that has a measurement that is within 1-2mm of your current fork. If this distance varies too greatly, it will effectively change the geometry of your bike. A longer measurement will slacken your head tube angle, shorter will steepen it. Variation either way can have an adverse impact on your bikes handling, making it quicker or slower and perhaps inducing the dreaded speed wobble. Once you have found a fork with the right length blades, you willl need to seclect the fork rake or offset. Forks commonly come with rakes ranging from 40-50mm. As a rule of thumb shallower headtube angles will require froks with more rake, while headtubes that are steep want to have forks with less rake. However, that is not the whole story. Forks with more rake tend to steer more quickly and be less stable and forks with less rake tend to steer more slowly but more stable. That being said, if your head tube is 72-74 degrees you probably can do quite well with a 43-45mm rake. If your headtube angle is 74-75 degrees, I would go to 40mm of rake.

If you can find a good mechanic or frame builder they may be able to help you make the right choice.

Good luck!