|More Tubular Newbie questions||granda|
Aug 16, 2002 12:39 AM
|I put the tubular on the wheel yesterday and managed to get glue everywhere |
and have several of my fingers welded together. I now have reasonable confidence that the wheel is going to stay there. Now that that is done I was wondering about a couple of other tubular issues.
1.) How important is the spread area/density of the glue on the tape or rim? Is more better? and how do you spread the glue (I'm ruling out fingers from now on)?
2.) How does replacement work (specifically outside the comforts of home). The directions on the tubular box say to wait 8 hours for the glue to set - something I'm unwilling to do on a ride. Do I pre-glue tires? Do I need to carry glue with me? am I going to have issues getting the old tire off?
Thanks for your help
|re: More Tubular Newbie questions||roadcyclist|
Aug 16, 2002 1:20 AM
|Use a toothbrush. Apply a very light coat of glue to the rim and a very light coat to the tire. Allow both to dry (at least 1 hour). Apply a 2nd very light coat to the rim and mount the tire. Inflate and allow to set-up AT LEAST 24 hours before riding. That's for new tires on clean rims - been doing it that way for over 20 years and I have NEVER ROLLED A TIRE. The "spread" area is of critical importance. You want a thin layer of glue on the entire contact surface. As for your spare - pre-glue the tire as above, allow to dry, fold it up, and off you go. NEVER bother carrying glue with you, wet glue doesn't hold. You won't have too much trouble getting the flatted tire off. If you flat alot, carry 2 spares. Oh, make sure your spares are pre-stretched for ease of installation. After a while your spares will be flatted tires that you repaired. Enjoy the tubular ride - there's nothing like it.|
|re: More Tubular Newbie questions||Akirasho|
Aug 16, 2002 3:11 AM
|... my technique varies a bit from roadcyclist, but is essentially the same... light coats (three in my case) with time to dry 'tween coats (on both rim and base tape)... the tire can be glued on the last coat when it becomes tacky (a few minutes) and left to dry... but 12 hours would do if you weren't going to do hard cornering...
Actually, a finger works great for me... it allows for a good tactile feel for the glue as applied (it goes tacky relatively quickly) and conforms to most rim surfaces naturally. I use a citrus based solvent such as Goo Gone to take the stuff off said finger(works very well... quick and easy) with just a bit of a citrus based abrasive hand cleaner (available at auto supply stores... cheap) to speed things up... ahhh the smell of "fresh" oranges!
True dat... your spares should be pre stretched and pre glued (same as your normal glueup method, 'cept the last coat should be allowed to dry completely (don't get too worried if the base tape sticks to itself a bit when folded). Some folks will carry and use Fast Tack http://www.lickbike.com/i1619200.htm but I've not found that necessary (Fast Tack is not specifically designed or marketed as a tubular glue but some folks swear by it... I'm a Vittoria Mastik One fan exclusively). I usually only carry one spare... but I guess Murphy's law will eventually catch up to me!
I'm not an exclusive user of tubulars (most of my bikes (and wheelsets) carry clinchers)... and for the most part, only use 'em on race bikes but occasionally take a set out for extended rides... While it might seem a bit elitist and egotistical... the whole process of glueup and usage makes me feel a bit more kindred to the roots of cycling... now, I guess I need to get a real leather saddle, rip off that pesky derailleur system and strap my feet into rat traps to complete the experience...
Remain In Light.
|re: More Tubular Newbie questions||granda|
Aug 16, 2002 8:52 AM
|Well before I went tubular it seemed like clinchers were just so much more convienient. And they probably are, but as I was picassoing the apartment with cement I thought that this was probably part of the attraction. It's more time that you get to waste tinkering with the bike, and it FEELS like it's almost a skill or art to get that tire on there right.|
|re: More Tubular Newbie questions||ccrabb|
Aug 16, 2002 9:19 PM
|There are several approaches. Some people have done the same thing for many years and swear by it, so that adds a bias. I've been through this (now use clinchers, because effectively that's all there is, compared to the days when there were a lot of sew-ups to choose from and clinchers were few and had a lot of problems).
So basically, I ended up putting a coat of glue on the tire backing and a coat on the rim using throw away plumbing resin brushes available in the hardware store. If you've sweated plumbing joints, you know about the little brushes you use to spread the resin on the tubing end. These are ideal.
I let the glue set up. Mounting a tire with wet glue does excactly what you said it does...all over the place. I realized that very really (I say this, because there are those with their methods that indicate that the only way to do this is with wet glue, etc) that the tire really holds and I too have never rolled a tire (over Lincoln/Appalachian Gaps in VT in 95 degee weather and other hot rides). Let the glue set up then mount the tire. You will see that this goes really well.
So look: The history of this goes back to when people were using shellac to mount the tire. Through better living through chemistry, we have really good rim cement now. The stuff is awesome. So a coat on the tire backing and a coat on the rim and letting it set up will do it. You can use a good coat.
Yes, if I were racing, I'd: coat each of the tire backing and the rim and let dry. Coat each of the tire backing and rim and mount wet. Then let dry. And when flatting during a race, get a new wheel. But for training, what I said above works.
Let me qualify this a little more. I once let rims with mounted tires sit in my Mass. garage for three years (did not use them). I then decided that I'd ride them. I tried to take the tires off, and found that they were *still* very attachted to the rims. This is during three years of temperature extremes in the garage from over 100 degrees F down to at least ten below. So I thought, duh... the cement is pretty good. /c