|1" threaded fork steerer length||joeblack|
Aug 8, 2002 8:03 AM
|I currenly have a aluminum fork that has a steer length of 130mm. I am thinking about getting a carbon fiber one. Either the Kestrel EMS Pro or the Easton EC30 (only threaded ones I can find online). Question 1: Will I notice a difference? Question 2: If so, which one should I get? Question 3: Is my steerer length too small such that if I get the smallest one (150, I think) I won't have any threads left (so I can't get one anyway)?|
|re: 1" threaded fork steerer length||Andy M-S|
Aug 8, 2002 8:50 AM
|1. Maybe. I went from alloy to carbon and found that the bike handled a touch better, and that it was a little more noisy (FWIW, I went from a Profile BRA to a Profile BRC--so that should hold as much constant as possible). I do get a lot more clearance with the BRC, which is good.
3. Depends on what you want to do. You should check with a local shop before you order, to find out whether they can extend the threads. I had this done on my BRC, and while they didn't do a perfect job, the result was satisfactory and has caused no problems. But then, I got a killer deal, so...
|re: 1" threaded fork steerer length||jtkirk15|
Aug 8, 2002 9:12 AM
|1" threaded from Nashbar - Easton EC70. Price match with Performance's latest catalogue, $99. An LBS should be able to put threads on the steerer, but I would check first.|
|re: 1" threaded fork steerer length||DrD|
Aug 9, 2002 3:45 AM
|1. I think you will, esp. if you go with the Kestrel.
2. I would get the Kestrel - I found it to be much better at damping vibration (the kestrel has carbon blades and arch (all one piece)) whereas the Easton has carbon blades and an aluminum arch - I haven't ridden the easton, but switching from a Profile BRC to a Kestrel EMS Pro made a very noticeable increase in comfort over chip-sealed roads, etc.
3. You should be fine - most forks have 40-50mm of thread on them, so even after cutting down 20mm, you will still have at least that much left, which should be plenty for most headsets.
|Time and materials job.||Spoke Wrench|
Aug 9, 2002 5:55 AM
|Okay, so you get a real good deal buying a fork that isn't a straignt bolt up and now you need to figure out how to install it.
Anybody who will give you a firm price for doing the work either hasn'd done such a project before and doesn't know what they might be getting into or isn't concerned about the profitability of the project.
There are a lot of variables here. Is your existing headset in good shape and will the crown race fit your new fork? Does the top of the fork need to be cut? Do more threads need to be added to the steer tube? Who takes responsibiliey if the project gets screwed up? (Important if a buddy does the work.)
If you came to me, I'd quote between $30.00 and $150.00 with no guarantee where in that range the final price might fall. Oh - and I'll take the hit if I screw it up, but won't guarantee how the bike will handle if the rake is different from your existing fork.
|re: 1" threaded fork steerer length||ccrabb|
Aug 9, 2002 10:25 PM
|I just replace a Trek 5200 fork with the EMS (stem was welded in and could not remove). I used a 175mm steer tube length which was the same as the original tube, and used the original spacers. The tube could have been cut to eliminate some of the spacers, but I got lazy (btw, buy a cutting jig if you cut it yourself http://www.biketoolsetc.com ).
I like the Kestrel EMS a lot. It's stiffer and feels smoother, but the old Trek fork was okay. But it does feel like a new bike.
So to get the right steer tube length, you'll need to measure from the bottom of the lower head tube pressed cup to the top of the top head tube pressed race, then the stack height of the adustable cup and the lock ring plus any spacers, etc. But if you know the old fork was 130, then you can cut (you can do this yourself) the new tube:
You've got 50mm of threads on the steer tube (they give ya 2"), so if you cut 20mm off the 150mm new tube, you've got 30mm of thread left.
You'll do fine.