|It was the chain + Campy's new connection link SUCKS!||DougSloan|
Jul 25, 2002 6:16 AM
|I switched out the Wipperman chain for a new Campy. No skipping on the 11 cog, with nothing else changed.
However, the Wipperman had stretched quite a bit. When I lay the chains side by side to measure for cutting the new Campy, the Wipperman had stretched a full link. I didn't do the standard measurement, but that seems quite a bit. So, the skipping I'll attribute more directly to the stretched chain, rather than the mere fact it was a Wipperman.
What bothers me is that the Wipperman (stainless) didn't have that many miles on it, certainly under 1,500. I've never seen any chain stretch that much that quickly.
The new Campy connection link/method really sucks. If you thought Permalink was bad, wait until you try this. One end of the chain has a "permanent" outer link section, which you are never supposed to modify. You shorten the other end, leaving an inner link section. Then, you insert a special plastic guide pin, which mates with the steel pin. The plastic guide pin has a tiny smaller pin section that goes in the steel pin to keep them aligned. Note, you are supposed to use a new Campy chain tool ($69.95 at Excel!) to insert the pin. I see why. I bought two new chains, and each came with a pin. Both pins broke while trying to insert them with my standard Park chain tool. The tiny plastic pin section broke off on both.
So, I simply removed the "permanent" Campy outer link section and used the Wipperman connection link to install. It works fine.
Campy just can't get this chain thing right. This new method is worse than the last. If you want to disconnect and reconnect now, you must buy another chain section with 5 or 6 links and a new "permanent" outer link section and use the stupid chain tool and special pin.
Campy really sucks on this one. Just use the Wipperman connection link.
|just gotta ask...............||JohnG|
Jul 25, 2002 6:35 AM
|Is the chain (sans the link) the same as the "old" C10 chain????
If so, IMHO the "best" connection is assembling the chain with a good PARK chain tool...... just like any other chain. I've got an accumulated 30+K miles and 20 some "installs" using this method with nary a problem. My local Pro shop also assembles all of the C10 chains this way.
I'm also getting about 6K miles per chain for 1/16" stretch.
|looks the same||DougSloan|
Jul 25, 2002 6:37 AM
|Except for the end link, it looks the same. While your method might work fine, why not use the Wipperman link? Then you need no tool to remove or connect, and there is no danger of a pin coming out because of the connection method.
|I guess I'm just cheap......... and||JohnG|
Jul 25, 2002 6:47 AM
|Seriously, I think the C10 chain is an awesome piece of hw and I just don't want to "bugger up" my drivetrain with a removable link. I also NEVER need/want to remove my chain because it stays perfectly clean with Prolink as a lube. Also, with your experience with the Wipperman 'stretch' I'd wonder about the stretch in the Wip' master link. ???? Aren't you worried about that yourself???
Note: I may (?) use a removable link on my new C10 cross bike because I'll be using the bike in somewhat "severe" conditions. Still haven't made up my mind on that one yet as our So Ca severe conditions really aren't that severe. ;) A little dust and dirt maybe but no (or very little) mud here.
Jul 25, 2002 7:01 AM
|I've been using the SRAM Powerlink Gold for the last 10,000k on my all Record drivetrain. Never had any problems. Bought a bunch of them for 1 Euro each when I was in Europe last month. |
|Isn't stretch really just...||Stinky Hippie|
Jul 25, 2002 1:12 PM
|...the inside of the rollers of the chain wearing? If so, that would mean that a master link (being that it is generally just two plates with pins that run through the rollers when pressed together) wouldn't really be doing any "stretching"...right?:)
|Isn't stretch really just...||DougSloan|
Jul 25, 2002 1:34 PM
|Here's what Sheldon Brown says:
Jul 26, 2002 11:17 AM
|same experience. broke the "perma" link in less than 1,000 miles (and i am not tough on chains). reattached with a regular link using my chaintool and it's been golden ever since (going on 3,500 miles).
when i do buy a new chain i will just install it without the dumbass link. those links are freakin' dangerous in my experience.
|re: It was the chain + Campy's new connection link SUCKS!||curlybike|
Jul 25, 2002 7:08 AM
|Thanks for your report on the stainless chain. I would suspect that the standard Wipp. chain would last longer. Stainless is great for corrosion protection, but not so good for wear resistance in abrasive situations. The Campy dist. claims that the special tool is not really required. Maybe a tool that presses straight in with no turning will do the job well. Thanks for giving your results.|
|re: It was the chain + Campy's new connection link SUCKS!||mackgoo|
Jul 25, 2002 9:23 AM
|With all the talk of the super link etc, why do you guys continue to screw around with any thing but? And then complain about it.|
|Just used the guide pin...||B2|
Jul 25, 2002 10:58 AM
|and a standard chain tool and had no problem.
I even removed the pin and reinstalled it when I decided that I needed to remove one more link. Seemed easy to use, but I have no idea about how reliable it is.
Shortly afterwards, I mis-diagnosed a problem and unecessarily installed a new Wipperman chain. Hopefully I get more than 1500 miles! Then again, I guess I can always put the C10 chain back on.
|Thanks for the report||grandemamou|
Jul 26, 2002 5:57 AM
|on the stainless version. If the only advantage is not corroding it is clearly not worth the extra money. I replaced my nickel Wipperman at about 2500 miles. No real stretch. Just felt it was time.
I went with C chain because thats what the LBS had. I joined it with the Connex link and have a little less than 1k on it and everything is fine.