|Disc Brake Road Fork||HENRY K|
Jul 4, 2002 7:45 PM
|I am looking for a road/cyclocross fork with disc brake mounts. Any ideas?|
|AC makes one,||TJeanloz|
Jul 5, 2002 5:00 AM
|Advanced Composites makes a carbon fork with disc mounts, it's marketed under a variety of brands: Litespeed, WinWood, maybe Profile? Any bike shop should be able to order one through QBP.
|cool, I didn't know that||DougSloan|
Jul 5, 2002 7:32 AM
|Will that make radial lacing more of a problem?
Should be great descending bike.
Jul 5, 2002 8:20 AM
|With the amount of force transferred to the hub and then to the spokes on a disk wheel, radial lacing is a bad idea (at least on the disk side). This would be great to go down hill, but probably not worth the weight difference in going up it. Disks add a significant weight penalty (also, most times things like increased hub weight and wheel weight are not discussed in the equation). For a road bike it seems like a gimmick (the only way you could get disks off my MTB, on the other hand, is over my cold, dead body :-)|
|beat me to the punch! nm||MrCrud|
Jul 5, 2002 8:24 AM
|Disc and Radial DO NOT MATCH!!!||MrCrud|
Jul 5, 2002 8:23 AM
|Always build your wheels 3cross when using disc brakes. Disc brakes are a lot harder on wheels than rim brakes are.
What kind of brake did you want to use?
|ROAD DISCS||HENRY K|
Jul 5, 2002 11:37 AM
|I was under the understanding that Avid was the only Co. that made a road specific disc. If there are others I would be interested to know.
AS far as the weight...I have lost so much weight since I started riding that an extra few ounces or even a pound is not going to have that much of an adverse effect on my ride particularly when the small weight sacrifice will benefit the bike's braking ability.
|what's the advantage?||Jekyll|
Jul 7, 2002 10:32 AM
|I don't think you will get any advantage with a disk on a road bike over ceramic rims and good pads. Main advantage of disks is their ability to stop under difficult conditions (like mud). Ceramic pads will stop you just as well in the rain. Braking "power" is a myth - you can only apply as much power as it takes to skid the tire. You can easily do this with a traditional set up under normal conditions and in the wet with ceramics (not that you want to skid the front wheel anyway). The only advantage you would gain from a disk would be somewhat reduced input force and a little modulation. Again, to gain this at the cost of probably (realistically) a 2lb penalty and the added danger of excessive braking force (stopping the wheel and forcing a skid), plus the extra $200 to 300 investment is simply buying a marketing ploy. Remember that this will require at least a disk hub (relacing your wheel is obviously required), brake cable and brake itself - most likely you should go to a rim with double eyelets and a raised profile and 3x lacing with 14/15/14 to provide the strength to deal with the tremendous force that is transferred when disk brakes are applied.
Disks make sense on a MTB where mud, dirt, etc causes reduced braking with rim brakes and where very steep decents have to be handled at low speeds with exact modulation of braking force. I have Hayes hydraulic disks on both my hartail and full suspension rigs. They work as intended under the conditions above. These conditions are not an issue for a road bike. Maybe on a cyclocross bike that is actually ridden on single track, but not on a road going machine.
I'm not ranting (well maybe), I'm sure you will do as you will, this is just my .02.
|what's the advantage?||HENRY K|
Jul 7, 2002 3:46 PM
|I just don't like how the cantilever brakes feel as compared with road brakes. I can't seem to get them dialed in good. If I go ceramic rims that is a big expense too (replacing my current rims and rebuilding). I have used discs on mountain bikes before and they seem great. I would have to beleive that they would work equally as well on a road/cyclocross bike. Would there be a weight penalty? No doubt about it. Perhaps I need to find an "Ace" mechanic that remembers working with cantis 10 years ago to dial them in for me. BTW, I didn't take it as ranting, I like constructive feedback.|
|cool! - post some picks when you get it set up. good luck (nm)||Jekyll|
Jul 7, 2002 8:42 PM
|added modulation, longevity. Reduced maintenace. Fenders.||off roadie|
Jul 8, 2002 8:21 AM
|I can see all those as being advantages on some road applications, especially touring bikes. You don't need to replace pads as often (very i9mportant with heavy loads), the brakes don't fade on long descents (heavy loads, again), and they require next to no maintenance (not that road brakes do, but having them really be bullet proof is nice on long trips, I'd think). Lastly, disc brakes won't iterfere with any7 kind of fender or rack mounting, and may allow wheels the frame isn't otherwise suited to.
"Braking Power" is important, for heavy loads- I've seen beakes that could NOT lock the wheel, at least not at high speed. Even more important, is modulation that lets you control that power- who cares if a brake can lock up the wheel, if that's ALL it can do? You want to come just short of locking it up, and dic bakes give the smooth grip and feedback needed to do that.
Granted, the only disc brake I have is on the front of my full suspension MTB. It didn't cost anything like $300. The fork had mounts, so I built a new wheel (might have done that anyhow) and slaped on a cable activated brake that cost $35. For MTB's at least, its a very reasonable oportunistic upgrade these days. It is better than the best rim brakes I've tried (I have a set of Magura HS33's on another bike with very good machined rims), even in dry clean conditions.
|added modulation, longevity. Reduced maintenace. Fenders.||HENRY K|
Jul 9, 2002 1:34 PM
|Can I assume that you feel that the disc brake set-up on a cyclocross/road bike would be an advantage?|
|all carbon rims and big descents||DougSloan|
Jul 9, 2002 3:24 PM
|Disc brakes would be a great improvement for all carbon rims. The braking modulation on them sucks, and they are prone to lock up. Plus, the carbon does not absorb or dissipate heat, so the pads end up melting on long, hard descents, unless you use cork pads. The extra weight of discs, though, would be counter to the light weight goal of all carbon. However, a light disc combined with light all carbon rim might be lighter than a standard caliper brake and an aluminum brake surface rim.
Also, you'd never have to worry about melting tubular glue or blowing off clinchers from excess pressure from heat. Of course, for you Florida riders, this would be totally unnecessary.