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Help with Ergo Shifting Problems(5 posts)

Help with Ergo Shifting Problemstj90
Jun 20, 2002 8:33 AM
I cannot get my 4 year old campy shifter ('98 Chorus) to give me accurate shifts! Ill use the #5 (middle) cog as an example. When Im shifting from a larger cog to #5, the derailleur stops at the correct position. When Im in a smaller cog and shifting to #5, the RD stops at a slightly off position and rattles. Ive noticed that I can correct the off position by slightly trimming the index finger paddle well inside the "click" to get better alignment.
Do you think its time to rebuild the shifter? Ive followed 2 different methods to setting up the RD (H and L screws) so I dont think that is the problem.
I dont ever remember having to trim the RD. I can get the tension correctly set to give me pretty good upshifts, but then my downshifts suffer. I dont know if its anecdotal, but Ive also noticed that shifting seems to be slightly better when Im in the small chainwheel up front.
The other thing that is bothering me is that on my 13-26 cassette, the top pulley of the RD is touching the cog teeth even when the B screw is screwed all the way in. I was thinking of shortening the chain to resolve this problem but Ive adjusted the chain length so that when its at maximum cogs front and rear, I olny have 2 extra links. Shortening the chain may be problematic.

Any help would be appreciated!

cable friction...C-40
Jun 20, 2002 8:45 AM
Have you tired lubing the cables? If not, that may solve the problem. A reluctance to shift to smaller cogs is almost always the result of excessive cable friction. If that doesn't solve the problem, consider installing new shift cables and housing. A complete set (with brake cables) is only $35 at Excel sports. Two campy shift cables and 6 feet of cable housing is about $20.

Try this method to set chain length:

To adjust the chain to the correct length, shift to the little ring and smallest cog. Wrap the chain around the little ring, the smallest cog and through the derailleur, with the ends coming together below the right chainstay. Remove two links (one inch) at a time until the lower derailleur pulley moves a small amount when the ends of the chain are brought together (indicating that tension is being applied). Install the connector link and rotate the crank. The chain may rub against itself as it passes under the upper derailleur pulley. If it does, two more links (another inch) of chain should be removed to increase the tension and create some clearance between the upper and lower section of the chain. When this is done, the chain has been set to its maximum useable length.
cable friction...tj90
Jun 20, 2002 8:52 AM
Thanks for the ideas. I replaced all the cables and housings with teflon coated stuff to eliminate that potential problem. I was careful to insure that there was no excess drag of any housing from the cutting process.

I will try your idea on chain length. Maybe that will resolve the B-screw problem. Thanks!

Sounds just like my '99 Athena ...Merckx fan
Jun 20, 2002 2:14 PM
... until I rebuilt them a couple of years ago. I had the dreaded broken spring post.

The rebuild wasn't too bad, even considering I'm a fumblefingers who can't see the lever innards without my reading glasses.

Go to Campy Only! and read all about it.
You were right!tj90
Jun 20, 2002 7:10 PM
I took apart my ergo lever and found that the post was broken. That probably explains alot of the shifting problems I was having. Makes sense since the post maintains spring tension and location during lower gear shifts. The spring maintains tension on the cable. Without the post, the tension is still there but can adjust slightly enough. By trimming the lever, I was moving the location of the spring. That gets the RD located correctly. Once I make another shift however, the spring tension - and location - changes spring location and throws off the location of the RD.
Thanks for the tips guys! Hopefully the days of smooth shifting are here again.