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Is there any cure for open pro's clicking??(15 posts)

Is there any cure for open pro's clicking??SGrouts
Jun 15, 2002 1:45 AM
I know that it is a common issue for open pro rims.
But can anyone help me because i am going crazy with that noise. My rims are new and i dont want to trash them (but i will if this continue).
I already searched all the messageboards but nothing helped me.
I tried to lube the nipples. I trued the wheel. I cleaned everything.
Should i use a drop of screw-tie up glue (i dont know the exact word for the glue, but you will understand) on every spoke and nipple?

re: Is there any cure for open pro's clicking??curlybike
Jun 15, 2002 7:15 AM
Sometimes they will click if the wheel is poorly made and some of the spokes have very low tension. Check that.
Jun 15, 2002 11:09 AM
...for the quick help
...i tried that and it's not solving the click from hell!
The insidious rim-rattle.Bianchi4Me
Jun 15, 2002 8:28 AM
Sadly, there is a lot of stuff that can cause a rim rattle or clicking sound.

AS previously suggested, your spoke tension might be very low, allowing the spokes and nips to become "slack" for a moment as they are loaded. Don't just assume this is the case and crank up the tension. To eliminate this as a variable, I'd suggest having the tension checked by a tensiometer. This is a potentially dangerous problem if it exists. It only takes two minutes to just check the tension.

It's possible that there is vertical or lateral play in one or more of the eyelets, allowing them to wiggle a bit when the spoke tension is reduced by riding. This is usually only an issue when the spoke tension is too low to start with. Tough to get lube inside there, but a penetrating oil might be worth a try.

It's also possible that the shim used to temporarily assemble the joint prior to welding has gotten loose and is rattling around when the spoke tension changes. That's a fairly common rattle on Mavic rims. The rim flexes slightly at the joint when that part of the rim rotates to the bottom and is loaded by riding, which can cause the shim to click around inside the joint. Sometimes you can cure this by dropping a little superglue onto each side of the joint through the holes in the backside of the rim. Be careful not to glue a spoke nipple down! You really need a needle tube to do this.

You could also just have some debris inside the rim itself. Sometime drill shaving and weld debris get stuck inside the rim and work themselves loose after the wheel is ridden. If it's junk in the rim it would manifest itself by just rotating the wheel, and the rattle will seem to "travel" as the wheel is rotated. That's pretty easy to check. 1st fix for this is to blast out the interior of the rim using compressed air, after removing the rim tape, of course. (eye protection suggested, unless you like pulling razor-sharp slices of drill shaving out of your eye...) If that doesn't work, you can localize the rattling debris, and squirt in a shot of 3M contact cement in that area. This is a glue used for dry-mounting stuff, kinda like a spray-on rubber cement. So it's not crazy sticky and won't permanently bind up all your spoke nipples. It also remains tacky after it dries, so it tends to "catch" stuff that floats by even after drying.

Are you sure it's the rim? If it uses a crossed spoke lacing, one thing that can make a clicking sound is the spokes slipping over each over at the crosses. Putting a drop of oil at each cross is a quick way to check for this. Some folks suggest black oxide treated spokes are more prone to this than plain finish ones.

Hopefully that will give you some things to try. Let us know how it turns out.
Question to Bianchi4Me...SGrouts
Jun 15, 2002 11:08 AM
First of all thanks for the reply.
I think its the joint thing you describe.
From where must i drop the superglue??
Do you mean i must take out two spokes to see the joint from the back of the rim?
I am asking because i just removed the tire-tube and rim tape and i cant see the joint from the back of the rim, only the two nipples that are closer to the rim joint.
What should i do? Remove the spokes?

Thanks again...
Question to Bianchi4Me...curlybike
Jun 15, 2002 12:13 PM
As I remember the double ferrules will keep you from seeing inside the extrusion or letting trash out.
Standard causes/fixesKerry
Jun 15, 2002 5:28 PM
As noted, one possible cause is loose spokes on the NDS, but you've checked for that. A common fix is a drop of medium weight oil at the base of each nipple (where the nipple shaft goes into the ferrule) on the spoke side of the rim. Another possibility is where the spokes cross - a drop of oil or some candle wax can help this. Another possibility is the QR skewers - lube and higher clamping force. And then there's the possibility that it isn't your wheels at all, but we won't go there for now.
re: Is there any cure for open pro's clicking??tj90
Jun 16, 2002 5:22 PM
The clicking is almost 100% due to the joint coming loose. Every OP that I have had has done it and its annoying. I wont build another wheel with those rims! The way the guys in the shop resolve the problem is to drill out two holes near the welded seam and remove the aluminum of the inner wall (the part that the rim strip sticks to). Then take glue - someone mentioned superglue - I would use something like JB weld or 2 part epoxy - and glue the shim down.

Problem resolved.
Jun 17, 2002 8:46 AM
... for the very good idea.

Your % may be just a bit offKerry
Jun 17, 2002 4:23 PM
Given the number of people who have "fixed the click" by adding a drop of oil to each spoke nipple, your "almost 100% due to the joint coming loose" seems high. Loose joints can surely be a problem, but MAVIC ferrules have a reputation all their own.
Your % may be just a bit offtj90
Jun 17, 2002 7:40 PM
Yes maybe your right. But 100% is easy to achieve when your sample size is 5-8 rims.
re: Is there any cure for open pro's clicking??wbates
Jun 17, 2002 2:48 PM
Simple, simple fix. Put a drop of lube on each spoke nipple where it meets the rim. Give it half an hour into the ride and the clicking will be gone.
Jun 18, 2002 10:38 AM
i already tried that and the noise continues.
Thanks anyway for the reply.

re: Is there any cure for open pro's clicking??SFgeek
Jun 18, 2002 9:10 PM
i've had mine over 3 months, several hundred miles and the creaking just started. There are few things more annoying than that noise disrupting the smooth sound of a well lubed drivetrain on a ride. i used white lightening, dropped it in each nipple on 1/3 of the wheel, let is sit for a while, rotated, and so on. in my case the creaking stopped.

the only other recommendation is to take a hammer to them and use that as an excuse to get a better wheelset. better yet, donate them to a local non-profit shop (before the hammer job).
Here's the solution:Mr Good
Jun 19, 2002 9:11 AM
I've had the dreaded creak in more than one set of open pros. Here's how I've fixed it:

1) Remove tire, tube, and rim strip. Drip oil not only on the end of the spoke (On the head of the nipple), but also around the eyelet where it meets the rim. Open pro eyelets can corrode slightly, or become slightly loose, then they start making noise as the eyelet works against the rim. You have to use enough oil to penetrate between the eyelet and rim, which makes a little mess.

2) Clean off excess oil before replacing rim strips! I wipe with a clean cloth, then with a cloth that has some windex on it. I don't use solvent because I don't want to wash the oil out. If you just put rim strips on over oil-soaked eyelets, the oil soaks through the rimstrip to the inner tube, and quickly causes a flat. I don't know if it's a chemical reaction, or just that the oil makes the rim strip weaker--but you need to clean up the inside of the rim as well as possible so that oil doesn't soak through your cloth rim strips to the inner tube.

3) If you ride in the rain this winter the oil will wash out of your rim, and the damn creaking will come back. I know this is a pain in the butt and such expensive rims shouldn't do this. But if you're not rich, my solution (some oil, labor, and maybe new rimstrips) is better than buying new rims and rebuilding an otherwise good wheel. But next time I'm trying a different brand of rim...

4) One time I had this same creaking noise, which sounded like the rim, or the bottom bracket. I finally traced it to the cogset on the freehub! I simply put some grease on the splines of the freehub, and no more noise.