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Profile Swift Shift, 9spd upgrade advice(9 posts)
|Profile Swift Shift, 9spd upgrade advice||Matno|
Apr 24, 2002 3:54 AM
|I just ordered a Profile Swift Shift adaptor to move my downtube shifters to my aerobars. Is this a decent upgrade? I haven't ever tried it, but it seemed like it would be easier to reach the levers while riding.
Also, I'm looking to upgrade to 9spd (my current setup is 6spd - yes, you heard me right)! Is the difference noticeable? I've never had any problems with my current setup, other than not having low enough gears for long hills (my front rings are 53/42, rear are 13-26). Will I be able to tell a huge difference if I switch to a 53/39 front and 12-27 rear? Or should I go with a triple front crank? Thanks.
|re: Profile Swift Shift, 9spd upgrade advice||str8dum1|
Apr 24, 2002 9:05 AM
|ya, if you ride aero bars mostly, then the SS is a good idea.
as far as going from 6 to 9, if you have enough gear range now, then i wouldnt up grade. You'll need a new hub, cassette, chain and prolly a new frame (if yours isnt speced with 130 mm dropouts, i would think yours is like 120 something)
there wont be any difference if you ride in the same gears. gear inches = gear inches regardless of gears used to get it
|Wouldn't advise the 9-speed conversion attempt (too many||scottfree|
Apr 24, 2002 11:53 AM
|issues, too much money, too little reward if you manage to make it 'work), but if you want a little bit closer gear ratio and maybe a little easier climbing gear, you could almost certainly 'upgrade' to a 7-speed freewheel with a 28-tooth cog. OR, you could put 39 chainring on in place of your 42, and have noticeably easier climbing.|
Apr 24, 2002 9:06 PM
|How about if I could do it for close to $100? That's actually not unrealistic given some prices I've been offered. I'm not going for Dura Ace or anything like that. (Probably mostly 105 stuff). I'm not in any rush. I am pretty sure that everything would fit my frame (it's a Schwinn SuperSport circa '92) and the frame fits me just right. Granted, I could probably just sell the whole bike on eBay and get one with a 9 speed setup for a couple hundred more. But this way is WAY more fun. My frame is 125mm in the rear, which can easily be stretched to 130... Makes my upgrading that much easier.|
Apr 25, 2002 4:45 AM
|A lot of folks on this board will tell you not to mess around with an old bike. I'm not one of them. I agree with you -- it's FUN to tinker and scrounge for parts and try to make things work. Another aspect to the 'hobby' of bikes.
That said, I still think an old bike with a 126mm rear is never going to work quite right with 9-speed stuff. It'll work just sort of. Chainline alone is going to cause you problems. And I'm not at all convinced that 9 speed is in any way superior to the 7 speeds you can make work j-u-u-st right.
WOuldn't call you a dumbass for trying though. If I had a spare nice frame and access to cheap parts, I might try it myself, for the fun of it. Just wouldn't do it on my main ride, and certainly wouldn't expect perfection.
Apr 26, 2002 8:58 AM
|Actually, this IS my main ride and has been for the last 10 years. However, some replacements are necessary at this point, therefore upgrading seems like the logical step. I need new wheels. Both front and rear hop and there is no way to vertically true them. (I lived in Utah for most of the last 10 years and the rough roads there are hell on road rims - almost as bad as where I am now, the Bronx). My rear hub is okay, but the front hub is going and I think economically it's best to just get a new wheelset. Also my bottom bracket bearings are going bad (still rideable, but squeaking).
I figure if I have to get new wheels and BB anyway, I might as well go 9 speed. As for chainline issues, That really doesn't make sense to me. Seems like if I have a rear axle that is 130mm and a bottom bracket that is 68mm, the only issue I could possibly have with the chainline is my BB spindle length. Or not? I don't see how the frame could really affect that as long as it's straight.
How would I go about figuring out what BB spindle length I need? Is there a change in switching to a splined BB from a square taper one? Is there a standard to follow or does it depend on my rear hub?
|Old bikes, swift shift, etc. etc. (long)||speed-chump|
Apr 26, 2002 11:05 AM
I am running an old Panasonic with 126mm rear spacing as
my time trial bike. A "modern" rear wheel drops in with no
sweat, just a slight tug. I run with non-indexed friction
shifters mounted to a Profile Swiftshift. Even with 6spd
shifters and an old Shimano 600 rear derailleur, I've had
no problem spanning a 9 spd cassette, but you have to go
non-indexed. Not a big deal to me, as my fingers are
constantly resting on the shifters.
I had no chainline issues when I went from 6 spd freewheel
to 9spd cassette on this rig. I wouldn't worry about it.
Another tidbit about gearing - if you get a 105 cassette
and/or an LX level MTB cassette from Shimano, you can take
them apart and put your own cassette together with whatever
you want for gears. You don't have to really sweat spacing
either if you go friction. You can run any number of gears
you want and take up the excess space with spacers. You can
also fiddle with your chainline a bit in this manner if you
really want to. Right now, I am running 8 cogs with an extra
spacer on the inside to make up the difference -
13/14/15/16/17/18/19/21. It's made from three different
cassettes, including an old 8 spd. Works great!
I'd say grab the wheels, a cassette or two, and some cheap
friction shifters and you're good to go.
Hope some of that is helpful.
|Your bike sounds sort of like mine||Matno|
Apr 26, 2002 9:37 PM
|Well, the Profile Swift Shift part anyway... I've got friction front, 6 speed indexed in the rear. The shifting is only just bearable. Everything is in great shape gear wise, but I have a 9 speed XTR mountain bike and the difference is astounding. Everytime I switch from one bike to the other, I am blown away. The real problem is that this is making me want to not ride my road bike at all. In fact, I think I might like it more if it had slightly larger (and softer) "cross" tires, but sadly they won't fit on my frame...
My other complaint is that the difference between gears is too much. I notice a definite change in cadence every time I shift. That's why I'm thinking that newer gears, with the ramps, pins, etc. would make my shifting life easier. I'm on a very tight budget, but some of this stuff has GOT to go (BB and wheels are basically dead).
|re: Profile Swift Shift, 9spd upgrade advice||JimP|
Apr 27, 2002 3:39 PM
|It can be done. I rode a Cannondale that started life as a 6-speed and I first changed to a 7-speed with the Profile swiftshift for triathlons. Over the years, all of the components were replaced with DuraAce. Later I upgraded that to a 9 speed, still with the swiftshift. The fit was tight but the 130mm rear axle did fit without attempting to stretch the frame. I used a 39/53 front with a 12-19 as a 7 speed and a 12-23 cluster as a 9 speed since the smaller 7 gears are the same.|| |