Jan 31, 2002 8:30 PM
|hey i've seen many posts about carbon seatposts. i tried searching the discussions but nothing came up. so sorry for asking the same question. I ordered the syncros carbon post from supergo. I asked them if it should be greased or not. they said to grease it a little. but i've seen many posts saying not too, and that all the grease should be cleaned off from the inside of the seat tube. so whats the deal? why shouldn't grease be used for carbon seatposts? is just because of slippage or is there other reasons?|
|re: Carbon seatpost||Paul|
Feb 1, 2002 4:09 AM
|I have a carbon seat post, and justed cleaned the seat tube before inserting. Metal to metal is different probably due to corrosion, or grease is good if there is creaking. If the post slides in okay, why grease it. Just be careful when tightening the clamp. I've never heard of grease eating away at carbon. When you attach your shifters to a carbon bar, are you suppose to grease the shifter clamp?|
|re: Carbon seatpost||pmf1|
Feb 1, 2002 5:29 AM
|I've got two bikes with carbon posts and i grease them. Maybe I just do this because I've always greased seatposts, but I figure grease won't hurt anything. It aids taking the post on and off. Its not going to make your carbon fiber dissolve. Some folks claim that their post slips down if they grease it. I've never had that problem. So, I'll keep greasing mine because I think posts should be inserted into a frame with some grease. |
As per the last poster ... its true you don't grease your STI clamps on a carbon bar. And you also don't grease STI clamps on an aluminium bar. Does this imply that you shouldn't grease an aluminium post in an aluminium or steel frame?
|only use grease after reaming your C-40 seat tube||Paul|
Feb 1, 2002 7:44 AM
|or if your worried about oxidation. That's why your not suppose to use ti seat post on a ti bike, grease or no grease. |
How you doing Pete, saw you and Kathy on the trail last week, probably didn't recognize me on my new Look 386. All carbon, and no grease on the ergo seat post.
Always need a little grease on a tight fit, slides in better. You can use your imagination on that one.
|only use grease after reaming your C-40 seat tube||pmf1|
Feb 1, 2002 8:42 AM
|How do you like the Look? Are you going to hang up the Cannondales now? |
Watch that Look ergo post. I tightened mine and stripped the bolt. Had a hell of a time getting a new one (ever tried to get a LBS to order you a bolt?). I finally had to call the distributor.
|Had to really tighten it cause||Paul|
Feb 1, 2002 9:21 AM
|my saddle nose was slipping upwards. I was trying to minimize the torque. Have had good luck at Home Depot for metric bolts. You can also easily strip the bolts on those 4-bolts stem covers, as they are small screws. |
Always wanted to try a carbon bike, it does mute the road bumps though I still like my CAAD4. Sold the CAD3 frame, and used the Dura Ace parts for the Look. Had a little problem getting use to the 4.0 cm fork rake compared to the 4.5 cm fork rake of the C-Dale. Was bumping my foot due to the overlap.
Overall, the Look is nice and aero, and not a cookie cutter. Very stiff and responsive. It's advertised as a multi-purpose bike, and the pros use it for time trials. Only time will tell how it stands up, but people who have older ones have had good luck with them. I would only consider a C-40, Look, or Kestrel as they have the most experience with carbon. Don't trust the Trek's.
see ya on the trail
|Poor advice||Kerry Irons|
Feb 1, 2002 5:00 PM
|Where do you come up with "why your (sic) not suppose to use ti seat post on a ti bike"? Litespeed sells lots of Ti posts for their Ti bikes. I've been using one for 35K miles/4 years with no problems. Bad advice should not be passed along.|
|I read it in cycing mag, and was told this||Paul|
Feb 4, 2002 4:28 AM
|by a bike shop that sells Merlins. so the advice is from good sources. Maybe someone else can add to this. Sorry about the grammatical error, maybe you should critique all the others on this site. |
When in doubt, ask your favorite mechanic.
Feb 4, 2002 10:13 AM
|You got people saying you absolutely can't use ti/ti -ever. All Kerry did was say that it's being done on a regular basis by actual manufacturers of ti frames, plus lots of people do it and suffer no consequencies. So it stands to reason that it can and is being done. Which is what Kerry said. Maybe you shouldn't be so defensive when the obvious is pointed out. Critique this.|
Feb 4, 2002 11:58 AM
|You missed the whole point. 'm defensive over his remark about bad advice. Nothing to do with what other people are doing. You have no idea what other people use,or what the manufacture uses to prevent this problem. People who sell ti products are in business because they know what they are doing, not second guessing what is on a web site.|
|There you go again.||grzy|
Feb 4, 2002 7:18 PM
|What you heard from a cycling mag or scuttle butt in your local LBS isn't exactly the fountain of knowledge. The guys that work for the mags and shops are the very same poetry majors that flunked out of engineering b/c it was too hard, but still need a job. Hang around a shop enough or pick up enough copies of Bicycling mag and soon you'll realize that most of the guys don't know what they're talking about. It's all about hype, sizzle and gossip in a coordinated effort with manufacturers to make themselves look good, you feel insecure, and ultimately to get you to buy more stuff. Saying you can't use ti/ti _is_ bad advice - you just need to use ti prep. I do have and idea what other people use, materials, and how to solve problems - it's why I went into engineering. People who sell ti products are in business to make money, first and foremost. They'll spout off about love, passion and soul, but at the end of the day they still have to eat and pay their rent. Many of them know very little about materials and engineering, but may have excellent welding or marketing skills They realize one thing - if it's made of titainium or carbon and it's expensive some roadie will buy it. New trend: carbon + titainium = unobtainium + profits. It's often easier to tell people to never do something than it is to analyze, understand and ultimately solve the *right* problem, but that takes work and knowledge. You wouldn't lump the folks from Seven in the same bin as the Airborne crew or would you? |
BTW - (sic) means spelled incorrectly and it's common and correct to acknowledge this when quoting someone. Otherwise it looks like you got their quote wrong and undermines the reader's confidence in what you're (as in you are) saying.
|I give up, it's just not worth going on arguing. Buyer beware (n||Paul|
Feb 5, 2002 4:15 AM
|Kerry Irons, spoke with the LBS, it's not "bad advice"||Paul|
Feb 4, 2002 9:19 AM
|They sell both IF and Merlin ti bikes. What the mechanic told me was that "ti will weld in a ti frame". They said that IF uses a carbon insert in their seat post to prevent this. I asked him about Lite speed, and they couldn't answer why they used ti in ti. |
So Kerry, before maiking statements about advise, why not just ask the person where the info came from instead of making a rude statement. A lot of people pass advice, it's up to the receiver to check it out for what's worth. So, lets be careful with remarks.
Why don't you ask Lite Speed why they do it.
|Kerry Iron, Sheldon Brown answered concerning ti post in a ti ..||Paul|
Feb 4, 2002 9:48 AM
|question: Using ti seat post in a ti frame. |
Is there a problem (oxidation?) with using this combo?
This could be risky. If you must use this combination, use a Ti-specific anti-sieze, and refresh it frequently.
All the best,
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772, 617-244-1040, FAX 617-244-1041
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
Useful articles about bicycles and cycling
|agree, all ti should have anti-seize||Dog|
Feb 4, 2002 12:47 PM
|Copper based anti-seize keeps the ti from galling, or welding itself together. See also: http://www.srp-usa.com/faq_and_idea_page.html#4
Use that and there is no problem.
|re: Carbon seatpost||cyclequip|
Feb 1, 2002 5:30 AM
|You needn't grease the carbon as there are no seizing risks as with alloy on alloy. You might need to sandpaper the clamping area of the seatpost if you battle to clamp it properly.|
Feb 1, 2002 6:44 AM
|The Trek OCLV owners manual says to not grease the seat post. I know this isn't necessarily the same as a carbon post in a metal frame, or is it? I wouldn't do it.
|re: Carbon seatpost||bartali|
Feb 1, 2002 6:53 AM
|I have a carbon seatpost (Titec) and when I installed it, my friend, who owns a bike shop, greased it. Two of his bikes have carbon seatposts that were greased when they were installed and he has never had a problem with either.|
Feb 1, 2002 8:22 AM
|grease the syncros carbon post! i did when i first got mine and it slipped horribly. clean out the seat tube and make sure the post itself is clean prior to installation!|
Feb 2, 2002 6:03 AM
|Yup...yup...yup...Ask any framebuilder. They'll agree.
DO NOT GREASE THE POST.
Grease and Carbon have bad karma together...
|never say never - grease some carbon, at least...||Dog|
Feb 4, 2002 12:44 PM
|Never say never.
Composite Handlebar Care
Kestrel EMS Pro Series
Congratulations on your Kestrel purchase! The carbon fiber/Kevlar construction of your Kestrel EMS Pro handlebar is significantly lighter and stronger than metals and, barring accidents, will stand up to a lifetime of the hardest training and racing. This bar will not degrade over time due to fatigue as traditional metal handlebars do. However, composite handlebars require slightly different care than metal ones. Even if you've been working on bikes for years, please take a few minutes to read the following guidelines.
Size. Your Kestrel handlebar is to be used only with stems with a 26.0mm diameter clamp. All standard brake levers, aero-bars and other accessories will work on your Kestrel handlebar. All size specifications of your Kestrel handlebar are measured using the centerline of the tube.
De-burr. Using a file, sandpaper, or preferably a de-burring tool, remove all sharp burrs from the inside edge of any component installed onto your handlebar such as the stem clamp, brake levers, aero-bar, or bell. Removing the burrs prior to installation will prevent the clear coat on your handlebar from being scratched during installation. This will also prevent a sharp edge from digging into the bar during use.
Lubrication. Apply grease or, preferably, anti-seize lubricant to all screws on your stem, shift levers, aero bars, or any other accessories attached to your handlebar. Lubrication will ensure that your parts do not become corroded or seize together. This will make any future component changes much easier, and prevent possible damage to your handlebar during un-installment. Also grease the handlebar and stem where they meet. Grease helps prevent creaking and eases the closure of the stem as the binder bolt is tightened.... http://www.kestrel-usa.com/caresheets/emspro_bar_care.doc