|Help w/basic cassette removal||Crankist|
Dec 30, 2001 7:27 PM
|For DA 12-23 I have rec'd. these tools: |
Is this the correct lockring tool?
I am guessing that the splined lockring is removed c-cwise. I am unsure of the chainwhip use as it
appears that the cassette should slip straight out off the splined freebody. Do I use the chainwhip
merely to "lock" the cassette in place while I turn the lockring tool? Does the cassette slip straight
out after the lockring is removed? Humble apologies if this is even dumber to you than it sounds to me.
|the LFR method ...||lonefrontranger|
Dec 30, 2001 11:16 PM
|Rule #1: There are no stupid questions, especially when it pertains to bike related maintenance. These are the correct tools for any Shimano cassette removal / installation.
I got called on the General board for making this process sound harder than it is. I agree that if you're strong and experienced, it is a 30 second job. However, being blonde and female (I am both) makes it a bit more tricky, and if some shop gorilla has gnarled on that lockring, it's a real blue-faced screamer to remove. Here's my method:
Pop off the lockring by twisting it counterclockwise ("lefty loosy"). You perform this mildly annoying task by holding the spline tool (looks like a nut) in place on the lockring with a wrench, and holding the cassette in place with the chain whip.
Sit in a drivetrain-grease-resistant chair, and hold the wheel between your knees at an angle so that the tool doesn't fall out of the lockring (if the nut falls off less than twice, you obviously work for the Mavic pro wrench force and don't need my advice). Lock the cassette in place by wrapping the chain whip chain firmly over one of the middle cogs in such a way that you can "scissors" the whip handle against the wrench handle, while turning the wrench handle counterclockwise. (this requires patience and possible use of strong language) The torque of the wrench/tool combo against the cassette that is held in place by the whip will theoretically force the lockring to come loose. Theoretically. If it doesn't come loose with reasonable force (i.e. a bit of shouting and perhaps a scraped knuckle or two) then it's a good bet you're not turning it the right direction.
Once you loosen the lockring, the whole affair will come loose and you'll see that it's actually comprised of a fair number of separate fiddly parts. Slide the entire assembly off the freehub body. Toss all the cassette bits into a medium sized Ziploc bag. You can re-install them later if desired, but the bag is a neat, grease-free storage option which keeps you from losing any of the spacers or other fiddly bits.
To re-install, slide the cassette onto the freehub body - keeping all the fiddly bits intact, in order and lined up. There's a "key" slot on the freehub body so you can't really install them any way but right side up.
You will then be able to lock down the lockring with the Shimano tool in a clockwise ("righty tighty") fashion. Tighten it a reasonable amount with the wrench, but don't get all macho with it. You will have to repeat the whole process to remove it at some future date, and you don't want to strip or seize the threads by overtightening.
|the LFR method ...||Samcat|
Dec 31, 2001 5:12 AM
|Well said...truths told...and a 10 on the giggle scale. Though you left out the part about covering your lap with a old diaper as a grease guard.
You started my morning just right!
|you are hysterical...||koala|
Dec 31, 2001 7:24 AM
|I need a chair like that. BTW happy new year.|
|you are hysterical...||4bykn|
Dec 31, 2001 8:12 AM
|Does Park tools sell such a chair? I couldn't find it on their website. Will one chair work for both Shimano and Campagnolo?...... ;o)|
|I don't see it in the catalog, maybe it's a special order deal||lonefrontranger|
Dec 31, 2001 8:54 AM
|We both switched from Shimano to Campag a couple years ago - the chair is compatible with both, and seems to work well with the 70's Mavic freewheel on my fixie too!
Now that I think about it, cassette are easier to deal with than the old 2-whips-and-a-lot-of-cussing method on those old freewheels!
|Shimano chair vs. Campy one...||cory|
Dec 31, 2001 10:42 AM
|The Shimano chair costs $34.95, lasts a year and if you try to repair it, it flies apart. The Campy one lasts forever and you can get parts, but it costs $300 and won't work unless you wear Campy shorts when you sit on it.|
|got the chair, no diapers in this household||lonefrontranger|
Dec 31, 2001 8:41 AM
|The chair in question is one of those cheap plastic outdoor stacking chairs. We set it and the bike stand on a piece of plastic mat that I salvaged from an office remodel (we use mats for riding rollers, too). When the chair or mats get dingy looking, we take them outside and hose them down with a little dish soap.
Our garage is technically the workroom, but somehow the rec room (right inside the garage door) has become the primary place we work on our bikes- better lighting, heated, and there's an entertainment center sitting there.
I'm sure it's easier for us since neither has a non-cycling spousal unit complaining about our habits. I have 5 bikes, he has 3.
The diaper is a great tip! I have a couple of Park aprons from when I worked at a shop, so we use those, and I also have dedicated "bike mechanic" clothing.
Happy New Year to all - I'm going riding!
Dec 31, 2001 9:04 AM
|Pretty much the same, except if it's really tight, I stand with the tire against the ground. With the wheel vertical and cassette away from you, then you are pushing down on both the chain whip and wrench, which pushes the tire against the ground, making it easy to steady it and loosen the lockring.
Use anti-seize or grease on the lockring threads so it will loosen more easily next time.
This is all much better than the old double slotted freewheel days. My old six speed requires all sorts of mechanical and physical acrobatics to get loose.
Dec 31, 2001 11:35 AM
|Thanks for anti-sieze tip. I've replaced 5 sp. freewheels and occasionally found sufficient ball bearings to re-assemble. |
Yes, this sounds easier.
|the LFR method ...||Crankist|
Dec 31, 2001 11:30 AM
|Thanks so much for taking the time for such a detailed response. My shame now is |
P.S. Are you married?
Dec 31, 2001 5:32 PM
|There is no shame in being big enough to know you need to ask for help. You should have seen the aftermath of my pathetic first attempt at a BB install! Thank god it was my own bike, not a customer's, and a 'cross bike at that.
No married, I'm too mean for anyone to bother with ;-) Actually my SO and I have co-habitated for 6 years, at first it was kind of a "maturity" issue (yes, I'm an unrepentant cradle-robber!), then we just got lazy.
|suggestion for keeping the lockring tool in place||DaveG|
Jan 2, 2002 10:10 AM
|Normally, if you start cranking on the lockring tool with all your might, it will inevitably pop out causing you to jam your fingers into the spokes and much bad language will ensue. You can prevent that by threading your quick release through the axle and the tool so that it stays in the channel. You need to do this LOOSELY because there got to be some play for the lockring to come out (or you snap the QR like a twig). Once its loose, remove the QR and you are homefree.|
|Actually||nee Spoke Wrench|
Jan 2, 2002 5:17 PM
|Shimano makes a lock ring tool (TL-HG16) that has a little dowel that fits into the QR hole in the axle. It's much more stable than the basic, Park lock ring tool and much quicker than secureing the tool with the quick release. I love it.|
Jan 3, 2002 10:19 AM
|Performance "Spin Doctor" also makes such a tool. It has a metal rod that neatly fits into the the axle to hold the tool in place. Just bought one for $3 at the Brea CA Performance shop that is going out of business. All tools 30% off!|
Jan 7, 2002 9:01 AM
|Turned out to be a simple 10 minute job. Thanks again all for your help (and humor!).|
|got something to add...||yapsaw|
Jan 7, 2002 1:07 PM
|I read all those replies and none ever mentioned about the 3 small sprockets on their position when you fit it in the spline. The other rings have to be fitted in a certain way so they will slide in but for the 3 smaller ones, you can just mount them in any direction. My question is, will it affect shifting performance since even the small rings have shift ramps on them?
i just did a winter overhaul and took out most of the stuff on my bike. Cranks, bb's, chains, etc. One tip for cassette removal is to stack them in the opposite manner on how you took them off in the first place. I always clean each ring and stack them on a piece of plastic pipe so they'll stack one on top of the other.
just my .02 cents. Thanks for sharing some of the lighter sides of bike mechanics!