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Cutting Easton Carbon Post(18 posts)

Cutting Easton Carbon PostSagebum
Dec 6, 2001 10:05 AM
I want to cut my 350mm Easton CT2 post to 250 for use in a road bike. Aside from the warranty is there any reason not to? Any problems? I am really looking for comments from those that have done so.
re: Cutting Easton Carbon Postbrider
Dec 6, 2001 12:55 PM
I haven't done this, but the Slowtwitch site has an article on cutting carbon steerer tubes. I can't imagine the procedure would be any different.
re: Cutting Easton Carbon Postquadzilla1
Dec 6, 2001 1:27 PM
I also cut mine. If you read the directions, there is a MAXIMUM amount of seatpost that you can insert (along with a minimum). I had way too much post showing. I used a good 'ol hacksaw to cut with. No problems what so ever after about 3k miles. It is a great post!
Buy a 250jtolleson
Dec 6, 2001 4:32 PM
via eBay right now, I just snagged one for $57.99 (that's the seller's reserve, and they are dumping enough of them that you won't get outbid). Even the "buy it now" price is just $64.99.

All lengths available (including 250). So, to me, at that price, no hacksaw needed.
Buy a 250bad news
Dec 7, 2001 9:13 AM
those are fakes
Sorry, no, but thanks for playingjtolleson
Dec 7, 2001 10:20 AM
Original in package, right serial #, and sold by a regular cycle dealer. Sheesh, you can't disagree with my advice, but don't be a troll. There are many places that the Easton CF seatpost as available online for substantially less than retail.
bad news = disgruntled bike retailer?grzy
Dec 7, 2001 12:52 PM
Yeah, huge market in fake Easton seatposts. I can just see all the shops in Asia giving up on fake Rolex, Gucci, and Nike products....

Face it - no one is entitled to be in business. Provide a service and add value or kiss your buns goodbye.
; )jtolleson
Dec 8, 2001 1:42 PM
Lop it off!grzy
Dec 6, 2001 5:25 PM
Use a composite blade and wail away. I've cut all sorts of CF stuff including some Easton Monkey Lite MTB riser bars. Yeah, they'll scream "Warranty Voided" if you ask them - so don't ask. Just make sure you leave enough length such that you don't go below min. insertion. I've cut most of my Thomson seatposts, but that's alu., not CF. the big idea is to not get any delaminations going in the fiber matrix - thus a composite blade.
Hold your horses...TJeanloz
Dec 7, 2001 9:01 AM
Don't go cutting just yet. Those of you with Easton seatposts, take a good look at them. Notice that they are not entirely round. There is a flat spot along the back of the post- that doesn't run all the way up the post. The flat spot is there to keep the post from being pinched by the seat binder bolt, and to allow more uniform stress distribution. If you can cut what you want off, and still have flatness coming out of the seattube (i.e. the entire portion in the bike has the flat spot), go ahead and cut. But if you cut off all the flat, and then insert the post, don't be shocked if it cracks.
Dec 7, 2001 10:37 AM
He'd have the same problem even if he didn't cut the post. the onlything that matters is the flat spot in the binder bolt area - it's moot if the length with the flat spot is burried way down in the seat tube or sitting in the trash can.
Very true,TJeanloz
Dec 7, 2001 12:42 PM
That is entirely true. But he probably ought to be aware of the potential damage of using this post incorrectly.
You mean....grzy
Dec 7, 2001 12:48 PM a pierced scrotum? ;-(

I totally agree - when ever people do something unintended with a product they should understand that they're assuming ALL of the risks. Trying to sue a company after this is totally lame, but it happens every day in the USA.
maximum insertionDog
Dec 7, 2001 3:47 PM
some carbon posts have not only minimum insertion point, but maximum as well; I think the Easton does (I whacked one about a year ago); as long as the maximum insertion mark is still visable, and you allow sufficient post in the seat tube, it should be ok

BTW, I just whack'em with an ordinary fine tooth hacksaw; I've never experienced any fraying or delamination, either in seatposts or steer tubes; I do take a fine file and add a bit of bevel on the outside, though
Dec 7, 2001 3:51 PM
6. Make sure to allow a minimum of two
inches of insertion of the seatpost into the
seat tube at all times. DO NOT insert past
the maximum insertion point marked "10"
on the seatpost. Due to the lightweight
design, insertion beyond this point can
result in failure.
Dec 7, 2001 4:25 PM
Perhaps the max. insertion is due to the flat area and even though you were to move everything up by say 2" you'd still have a failure. The seat post is essentially a cantilevered beam and the stresses varya long it's length. The Easton boys have probably taken advantage of this to keep the weight down. It would be worth a call to talk to one of their engineers and find out the skinny before one breaks out the implements of destruction. Although though they'll typically say you can't quote them and that they won't condone something, at least you can get the straight scoop and then make your own decision. The warning is pretty clear: stick it in too far add it may break.

Remember: composites tend to fail catastrauphically and without much warning. Just b/c some one else has done something it doesn't meant it will necessarily work for your application.
Dec 8, 2001 11:05 PM
The reason to cut other posts is to shave some wieght. Right?? We're talking about 2-6 grams here. Seems hardly worth the trouble. What if you chank the cut? The post in the seat tube won't hurt anything. If you happen to get a few inches taller you'll be all set...:-)

Good Luck...
Best Advise YetSagebum
Dec 9, 2001 2:50 PM
Good point. I would be better off putting duct tape over my mouth and losing 2-6 lbs this winter instead of gaining some. Plus if I don't cut it I can use it on a mountain bike again sometime down the line.