Nov 25, 2001 6:21 PM
|For some reason I cant remember the mavic rims that they use in the paris-roubaix race...arent they like the cx33 or something?!
|could it be Monthlery?||dupe|
Nov 26, 2001 5:08 AM
|they are a bit old now & were ok strong but tubular.
i think cxp-33's would be a stronger rim anyhow's.
hey how's your chin coming along. stitches out?
|Picked em out myself!!!||BigLeadOutGuy|
Nov 26, 2001 4:04 PM
Thanks for asking about the chin!!! I picked out my sitches last week or so...a nail clipper and some tweezers work wonders!!! not as much of a scar as i would have liked but isnt that always the case? hahaha
howz everything in the city?
I think it was the cxp-33. I just needed some some new rims and I wanted the strongest thing possible and I figured it would be the rim they use at paris-roubaix
Nov 26, 2001 10:05 AM
|During the days of tubs, they used a Mavic rim called the Special Service Course, SSC rim which was 400gr. box section rim about 21-22mm in width, hard anodized and made in limited numbers. The SSC was expensive then, close to $100/rim, as it is now. You see singles and pairs popping up on EBay. The Monthlerey mentioned is another Mavic rim but lighter at 355 gr., about 19-20mm in width and a available Mavic rim at the time.
Mavic's only current tub production is the Reflex which does not compare to the SSC or what's currently available from Ambrosio for PR, the Nemesis which was rode by Domo in the 2001 edition. That is at the start.
|probably worth every penny!||BigLeadOutGuy|
Nov 26, 2001 4:07 PM
|I need the strongest rim going!!!
Id pay 150 just for a rim..as it is now I am going through rear rims like there is no tomorrow and it sucks. I am truing rims after every ride and they are 32h 3x open pros!
bring on the ssc!!!! =)
|re: paris-roubaix rims||gimondi|
Nov 27, 2001 6:11 PM
|The rim was actually called the Paris Roubaix SSC, I have a set I raced for two years in Europe back in 93-94. They were great, could have been solid aluminum for all I know, and even then are very, very dented from racing the PR amateur in 94.
Are you breaking them because you are large? or high torque, or do you ride cobble and off road? I would recommend the Zipp 404 or new 505 clincher. We have been buying the clydesdale wheelset with 28/28 spoking for really big guys, and they absolutely love them. Got a guy who weighs 325lbs and rides 250+ weekly without any problems in the first year for whatever that's worth, not to mention about a dozen guys riding cyclocross on them, Gullickson has won 3 out of 4 national cyclocross events on 404 tubulars. The CXP33 is definitely a heavy beefy rim, but not perfect, our luck has been good but not great for some reason. Some guys have no problems at all, and others prove a bit unhappy. Run a search on them here and a VN forum I know some stuff came up recently about this.
|Big+Torque= Taco rim!||BigLeadOutGuy|
Nov 28, 2001 3:50 PM
|I would like to think that my size combined with the torque I produce while sprinting makes my rims come out of true...but its probably more of the fact that I am a fatass! hahahaha
I'll check out those rims you mentioned....they gotta hold up better than my open pros
thanks for the info
Nov 29, 2001 4:50 PM
|You can rest assured that the strongest man alive, whoever he is, can't generate remotely enough torque through a bicycle drivetrain to damage his wheel, even if it has hardly any spokes which are weakly- tensioned. The cyclic loading which a ridden wheel experiences every time it rotates, accounts for the vast majority of stress in spokes and rim. Pedalling forces even under track sprinters are insignificant, respectively.
Your wheels are probably failing because they're not well built, not because you're a 'fatty'. Your pursuit of 'Paris Roubaix' designs is a blind alley: the requirement for light riders and rough conditions is subtly different from the requirements of a heavy rider in ordinary conditions. An Open Pro rim will be fine for you if it is made into a good wheel with high and even spoke tension, with residual spoke twist carefully removed and the whole thing properly stress relieved. Another rim built the same way as your old wheel will, on the other hand, offer no improvement.
|Now My Next Question?!||BigLeadOutGuy|
Nov 30, 2001 5:06 PM
|where do I find this person who will build my wheel so it will be neraly indestructable?|
|Now My Next Question?!||Jofa|
Dec 1, 2001 3:26 AM
|Gently ask prospective wheelbuilders if they follow the guidelines laid out in the book "The Bicycle Wheel" by Jobst Brandt. If they nod approvingly then you are on the right track. If you are met with rolled eyes of derision then you probably have an old-school builder who prefers his mythology: keep looking if you want durable wheels.
Alternatively, buy a copy of the book yourself and follow it to build your own wheel, or even just to finish one which somebody else has built. It is an easy lucid read, and putting together a good wheel is a satisfying thing to do if you have a moderate mechanical curiosity. Contrary to popular opinion, there's no art to wheelbuilding, and you don't need years of experience to build good ones: just follow the instructions carefully.
|Now My Next Question?!||BigLeadOutGuy|
Dec 1, 2001 6:26 AM
|I'm on it!
|hey joe, head into manhattan.....||dupe|
Dec 1, 2001 5:31 PM
|toga bikes or gotham bikes both build a lot of good wheels. a-bikes is my favorite. conrads is pretty cool too.
if you want to use what you already have ask them how much for a rebuild? i know they charge around $30 for a build if you bring all the bits. if you buy from them hassle them into building a wheel with a discount on the cost of a build.
if your hub has been built up a bit and your rims have been knocked around i would suggest considering a new option. if your 210 or 220lbs i would suggest a 36 hole 3x with db spokes and brass nips on an open pro (maybe ceramic for a bi of extra strength). if you choose for cxp-33 im sure you could go for a 32 hole.
its not that complicated. ask to meet the guy who is building them so he can see your size - slide him a few beers - he wont forget who he is building for and will have a better idea of the right tension. if you buy the whole lot from them make them assure you of a retrue or service should there be any probs.
if you go into the stores do so early on a weekday as then they wont seem as rushed trying to gab with all the other customers.
a cheaper option maybe excel sports or colorado cycles. but remember should anything go wrong you will have to ship it and you cant use your size to intimidate them over the phone ;-).
what you want is not unatainable.
|Good Looking Out Ben!||BigLeadOutGuy|
Dec 2, 2001 10:58 AM
Thanks for the info dude!! I'll check it out!
How about the weather yesterday (saturday)? It was insane...I went riding in shorts and a shorts sleeve jersey!!! I hope ya got a ride in!!
stay stoked dude!!!
|riding as much as i can....||dupe|
Dec 2, 2001 12:11 PM
|coz i get a feeling that we'll suffer for it later with $hitty weather and cold temps.
i know at bike habitat they offer classes where everyone brings their own rims,spokes and hubs and then they are instructed/evorseen by a master wheelbuilder. could work out as a cheap way to pick up a few ideas.
from my own experience i could always true a rim back in line but would then stuff up the even tension of the wheel as a whole - thus losing its structural integrity.
they are ok as a store but this program sounds cool for someone like yourself that is more likely to maintain his own stuff.
not sure how often this runs though but you can ask.
|anytime i need info....||BigLeadOutGuy|
Dec 2, 2001 5:45 PM
|I am asking you!
your like the info hotline dude!!
now i gotta do some HW and get cracking....i think i should invest in a tensiometer thing to check the tension between spoked...usually after a ride my rims are like 1-1.5 cms out of true and i can get them down to about 2mm which is pretty good but i think the tension thing is screwing me up
they say the next week should be pretty nice so lets enjoy the weather while we can!
are ya going to do any races next season? I think they have a series in central park or something...im gunna look into it.
stay stoked dude!
|is so, explain this ?!||mclements|
Dec 2, 2001 9:09 AM
|If what you say is true, perhaps you can explain something for me.
About 17 years ago when I was racing, I started with some super light Mavic E-2 rims. Every time I pounded up a hill they would go out of true. Not on the flats, not on the downhills, but only after a hill climb.
I built these wheels myself so I know they were made properly with even spoke tension. Back then, I solved the problem by building a new set of wheels on G-40 rims. . .
So my question is, why would these wheels go out of true only on hill climbs?
|is so, explain this ?!||Jofa|
Dec 3, 2001 9:28 AM
|If your wheel is losing trueness in use, and it is an ordinary wheel, then it is not well-built. It's as simple as that. The residual spoke twist wasn't taken care of in building, so the spokes relieved the twist themselves when they passed the bottom of the wheel. The effective spoke length must change in order for a wheel to go out of true, unless you bend the rim on something, and there's obviously no way that pedalling torque can make spokes unscrew themselves from their nipples.
Superlight rims which were fashionable back then were always tricky to make reliable wheels out of, because they can't take much tension, which means the spokes will go nearly slack without much load. Builders who had become accustomed to leaving residual spoke twist in other wheels with stronger rims without too much problem found that light rims they built with were losing trueness easily. I'd guess that this is what happened to you. Wheels which are ridden hard up hills are subject to only a little more radial force than otherwise, but it is enough to let more spokes untwist. Also flamboyant riding which some people adopt up hills, involving throwing your body all over the bike, can subject the wheel to otherwise unseen lateral loads.
|is so, explain this ?!||mclements|
Dec 6, 2001 2:05 PM
|Nice try; I built the wheels myself so "residual twist" or improper tension was not the issue. Flamboyant riding is also not the issue. (though either would be a good guess)
The only explanation I can think of is that even though radial forces of climbing were only slightly larger, it was enough to bend the wheel because it was barely strong enough for normal riding to begin with.