|Puzzle||Woof the dog|
Nov 11, 2001 9:06 PM
|Whats on hand:
1. old 1980s Cannonsnail frame (al.), 126 mm rear triangle.
2. One 126 mm Rear 36H. Shimano 600 hub and cassette + chain
3. One 130 mm 2 year old 32H. Shimano Ultegra hub + 12-23 Ultegra casette.
4. Shimano 600 cranks w/ 53/49? chainrings.
5. Everything else necessary to put a bike together.
Whats the idea?
I want to use newer ultegra hub to build up the wheel that will fit into this frame. Is it viable to reduce an axil spacer on the nondrive side of ultegra hub by 4 mm. so that the hub would fit into the frame? That means that the wheel would be built with drive side spokes at an angle closer to 90 degrees. I may not be able to use a cog or two because they may be closer to the frame, I think, so I will just stick spacers there and i doubt I will need a 12 cog. I really want to make this into a timetrial bike, but since the frame is al. I can't stretch it for more than like 1.7 mm. I could remove 1mm off of the locknut on the drive side and 1 mm off the nondrive spacer between teh cone and a locknut. Then jam the wheel in, but I won't have to rebuild the wheel, which would cost me 25 bucks + 50 for a rim + spokes..bluah. Will that all work? Any thoughts and ideas welcome. Thank you.
Woof the cannondog.
Nov 12, 2001 9:47 AM
|Since you seem to be handy at cassette manipulation, I'd suggest putting the older cassette body on the newer hub. That would keep the spacing nearer to the 126mm you have on the frame, and keep the spoke angle towards a stronger wheel. I think if you get the spoke angle too high on the drive side, you're looking at more trouble than just the possibility of the rear derailleur hitting the spokes. You might be able to shave down the spacers on each side to maintain the spoke angle on the newer hub, but you may be giving up the small cog on that wheel due to possible interference with the dropout and the cassette. Put the wheel in the frame to see how much you have to play with before slicing the spacers.|
|Answer to Puzzle||Wheels|
Nov 12, 2001 8:05 PM
|Take the new hub and put it between the 126 mm rear drop outs. You can 'spread' the drop outs easily 2mm a side to get the wider flanged hub in. You say you only can spread 1.7 mm. I believe you should be able do more. If you can't, that frame is AWFULLY STIFF and probably wouldn't be ideal for a TT frame.
Once you get the hub (130 mmm) in, match your shifters to the number of cogs you want to run in the back, i.e 8 speed shifters to 8 speed cogs. Adjust Hi/Low screws on RD to account for cassette width. You should get use of all of your cogs.
I did this on my older steel frame without any problems.
Let us know if it works.
|uh huh||Woof the dog|
Nov 13, 2001 10:39 PM
|Well, I could spread it by a lot probably.....its just a matter of pulling on it hard enough, which is exactly what I am uncomfortable doing. As Mcgraw downstairs said, the wheel can "pop out" easier than I want it to. I am thinking about putting a single cog in a back to make this into my trainer bike for the winter (ahh, pleasures of having a resistancd controller!). I will worry a/ TT setup come spring.
I donno, frame alone weighs 4 pounds - kinda beefy for an aluminum frame hehe. Seatstays are actually oval with the wide part facing the wind making it unairdynamic. Who cares, its only a frame, and only 4 pounds. Got an al. fork too, it will be a sweet town bike as well.
Will see, it requires time to get it right!
Thank you all
Woof, the Grade-A-Honey-producing Bee
|re: Puzzle||feathers mcgraw|
Nov 12, 2001 8:54 PM
|Oddly enough I have a Cdale with 126 spacing built up as a time trial bike. I used a 126 hub (Sheldon Brown has some, http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/special.html)a 130 hub never sat straight and could almost be pulled out of the dropouts. You won't be able to lose the 12 cog since it's offset with a built in spacer. You'll have to lose the 13 or 14 instead. Otherwise it works great. I guess you could use the hub you have but 36 spokes is kind of a drag.|| |