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Opening a Powerlink/chain cleaning(8 posts)

Opening a Powerlink/chain cleaningtemplecat
Nov 9, 2001 10:12 AM
Spend the better part of an hour, two pliers and some strong language trying to open a Powerlink on a SRAM chain.
There's gotta be a better way! any tips?

Also, with all these new chain lubes out there is it really necessary to remove/clean/parafin the chain? Just a couple of squirts of the chain lube, a wipe and then yer off??

thanks

J
Step into the lightgrzy
Nov 9, 2001 10:36 AM
You have to understand how the Powerlink works. I pop the one open on my MTB w/out tools in less than a minute. First, are you using the SRAM chain that it is designed for? Varying chain widths will get you in trouble if you use a thicker one. Second, you have to clean out the slots with a tooth brush and a shot of cleaning jizz. Third, you need to slightly squeeze the sides together while you push the pins towards each oterh (as if you were trying to make the link slightly shorter). There are little machined detents in the "home" position and squeezing from the side gets the head of the pins out of the detents whihc the allows you to slide the pins towards each other. Once this happens you can then pull the link apart. Tip it's much easier to do all this if there is no tension on the chain - I either remove the rear wheel or drop the chain to the inside of the CR's.

Hope it works for you. BTW - don't use an IRD chain - they're 10X harder to get apart.
Easy way to get a sticky powerlink off:Rusty McNasty
Nov 9, 2001 12:39 PM
Put bike in small/small combo.
Double chain over, for 2 links either side of powerlink.
Stick skinny screwdriver through SECOND slot below powerlink.
Hold chain together with fingers, rubber band, or clamp.
Using needle-nose pliers, press on OPPOSITE corners of the powerlink, disengaging it.
Pull powerlink apart.
Takes maybe 5 seconds, and never fails.

Yes, you MUST clean the chain periodically, or else expect it to wear out really quick. Petroleum based cleaners should never be used on chains which use wax lubricants.
re: chain cleaningKerry Irons
Nov 10, 2001 7:12 AM
As a general rule, there is no need to "clean" a chain if you properly use a lube like ProLink. By "clean" I mean go after it with some sort of brush and solvent/detergent. Most other lubes do accumulate gunk and require cleaning.

Assuming we're talking road riding, use the following technique:

1 - Wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag.
2 - Sluice on ProLink while pedaling (forward is better) so that the chain starts to drip lube. Aim the lube between the side plates and between the bushings and the side plates.
3 - run through all the gears several times, front and back.
4 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag.
5 - repeat 2-4 if the chain was really dirty

If you do this every 300 miles or so, you will not get any significant gunky buildup, and you won't have to clean the chain.
Retards and chain mythologyKornholio
Nov 10, 2001 10:05 PM
Listen up morons because I'm only going to say it once:

Chain wear occurs between the plates and the contact surfaces inside the rollers.

If you use petroleum based lubricants, use petroleum based solvents (of a lower molecular weight/viscosity) to clean your chain. No, just wiping the outside and relubing is not enough. That's the same as changing you car's oil but leaving the filter and the pan grit in place.

Take your chain off the bike, immerse it in gasoline (or kerosene or diesel, etc.) in a pie tin (coffee can, etc) and swirl it every few minutes for an hour. Repeat with fresh solvent. Remove and let the cahin dry thoroughly before you put new lube on it (lestwise the solvent in the rollers will dissolve and thin the new lube).

For the cheesdick who thinks he's getting his chain clean with wiping, some Pedro's brush or a little clear plastic box with brushes from Nashbar (that was originally desinged as a Matchbox car wash) I say this: Do it your way clean the bujeezis out of your chain with wiping. Give it your most thorough treatment. Now imbecile, drop it into that pie tin full of gasoline and go panning for gold. See all that grit, metal particles and sand? Notice how the gasoline turned black? That's what your sorry ass method missed.

I shit you not boys, try this and you will be converted.

P.S.-Don't you dare throw that solvent down the drain. I will punch you in the head if you do that. At least twice.
it is not wise to make my bunghole angry......Butt-Head
Nov 11, 2001 7:04 AM
nice one, schlong
How nice.Kerry Irons
Nov 11, 2001 12:02 PM
Using the lube method I described, my last chain lasted about 12K miles before reaching the specified 0.5% elongation for replacement. Never took it off the bike, and never immersed it in any solvent/used any brushes for cleaning. If I take your kindly worded meaning correctly, I could have doubled (?) or tripled (?) my mileage with your approach? Not likely. Before you start a diatribe, you should at least have some knowledge and facts to back it up. See if you can reply without insults and swearing - I dare you!
the chain cleaning part ...breck
Nov 12, 2001 9:13 PM
Road Vs Mountain
Both 8-speed Dura-Ace chain.

Mountain:
Clean with a shop rag and WD-40.
Lube with Tri-Flow ...got a lifetime supply.
Let sit and wipe down with clean(er) shop rag.
Use chain till need new one.

Road:
Clean with kerosene.
Wax it as in melt the real paraffin in a cast iron pot on the wood burner.
Re-wax mebee twice in it's lifetime.
Chain wax is getting hard to find but got about a 1# coffee can qty. left.

OK, take your shots :)

cheers,
breck