Oct 22, 2001 10:22 PM
|I have hardly had a flat in the last 12 months of getting back on the bike a(after 15 years) but the last week has seen 3 ! (road rocks early in the morning) Trouble is that I am having a hell of a time getting patches to take. I have used the Park patches with glue (vulcanising ones), Perforemance glueless patches and last night the Park Glueless patches. I don't know about the Park glueless yet but the first two seem to be OK until I take the tyre up above 100psi & then become unstuck.
Am I missing something ? I am preparing the surface as suggested. Should I wait for an extended period before using the tyre ? Any other ideas ?
I am using Michelin Airstop Butyl tubes.
|re: Patching Tyres||Akirasho|
Oct 23, 2001 3:21 AM
|"Glueless" patches are fundamentally a device of immediate convenience, that is, it'll get you down the road (and possibly home) a bit quicker than the "old" glue and patch system. The problem is (at least with every glueless patch system I've seen) that the patch substrate does not have the same "stretch" as the tube, thus, at some point, the two begin to pull apart. This does not happen with a (properly) glued patch since it literally fuses itself to a butyl tube. Over time, as the butyl tube either deflates or is reinflated, you are creating additional shear forces across the original bond... thus the eventual failure.
My advice is to return to glue patches unless you need to save down to the absolute gram, or absolute second. Oddly, my on-road repair kit still has glueless patches in it... the only time I've used one in the past 4 years was during a torrential downpour... figured I could shield the patch area from the rain and apply a speedpatch easier than glue. What a wet day.
Remain In Light.
|glueless patches stink!||Rusty McNasty|
Oct 23, 2001 3:39 AM
|That's why you are having problems-they $uck! There isn't a glueless patch made that should be used for long-term use. If you use a glueless patch, it should only be used to get you home, where you must remove the tube and either patch it properly, or else toss the tube.|
|glueless patches stink!||grettm|
Oct 23, 2001 7:02 AM
|Well I glueless Patches do stink for roadies. On my hybrid, I love them and they last forever. The difference is that the hybrid only goes to 65 psi. THey work fine under those conditions. I have a tube with 5 patches on it for over a year! Works great. The second I tried them with a road bike, they failed.|
|Clean surface critical||Calvin Jones-Park Tool|
Oct 23, 2001 8:31 AM
|Having a clean surface is critical for good bonding. Make sure to use a solvent such as acetone if you can, and allow it to dry. Use more glue than the size of the patch. Allow the patch to fully cure, under pressure if possible, before using it. |
The glueless patches rely on the tube pressing against the inside of the tire. If the tube is undersized to the tire, it will stretch and weaken the bond over the hole.
See more at http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQGP2.shtml
|Smoking again over worthless patches? :)||breck|
Oct 23, 2001 9:12 AM
|My experience is that glue-less patches work great on MTB large diameter low pressure tubes but are essentially worthless on high pressure small diameter road tubes. For road tubes go with the tried-and-true Rema TIP TOP brand patch kit made in West Germany. They won't let you down :) |
|Smoking again over worthless patches? :)||pygrant|
Oct 29, 2001 1:28 PM
|Where do I get these Rema Tip Top patches? Performance and
Nashbar don't seem to have them, and neither does my LBS.
Do you know where I can order some?
bob grant (email@example.com)
Oct 30, 2001 11:06 AM
|nashbar on-line cat does show this patch kit. |
however there my be a current distrubition prob.
actually most LBS or on-line cat's such as branford, etc. should have a sim to kit.
Oct 27, 2001 7:44 AM
|the last and only glueless patch I bought was just a "sticker"- I didn't even realize it was the patch (the instructions, such that they were were written on the back of it)!|| |