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upgrade fork(12 posts)

upgrade forkpkompath
Sep 27, 2001 6:13 AM
Want to ugrade to carbon on a '98 Klein Quantum. Need necessary info. Rake? mm? threadless or threaded?
re: upgrade forkBirddog
Sep 27, 2001 7:12 AM
I've upgraded twice and both times with a threadless fork The first time was with a Performance "el cheapo", w/alloy steerer and Cane Creek S2 headset and it made a huge difference. I described the ride as "silky". I just switched over another bike with a Reynolds Ouzo Pro all carbon including steerer, and Cane Creek S5 headset. It too was a great switch. The Ouzo is worth the money in my book, it is very precise and great at damping vibration. I think you get what you pay for, the Reynolds had flawless workmanship and is really super. As for rake, check what you have now and match unless you want to change the handling (quickness) of the bike. Most bikes have forks that are 4.3, but there are many exceptions.
To fork or not to fork?grzy
Sep 27, 2001 8:04 AM
Threaded will save you money and make use of your current components, but you won't save much weight. Going carbon threadless and the assocaited parts can easily lop 1/2 lbs. of the bike, possibly more. Cost will run around $500 for quality goods, but you can do better. Lots of good forks out there, but it's best to check the geometry spec of your frame so you have a reference for the rake spec. Typical rake for agressive sport/racing style frames is around 43 to 45 mm. Going 1-1/8" is worth it since you get a slightly larger section (i.e. stornger/stiffer) and you won't have to use a shim on the threadless stem. Particular favorites of mine are King NoThreadset, Reynolds Ouzo Pro, and Ritchey WCS stem - good weight, top quality, bomber construction. Don't forget to leave the steerer long to add spacers - you can always cut it down later. Unless you have all the tools and know how I'd advise letting your quality LBS slap it in for about $35.

Besides all the weight-wennie stuff you'll notice a sweet improvement in handling.
I like the record headsetChris Zeller
Sep 27, 2001 8:46 AM
Haven't tried the ones you mentioned, but I like my record 1-1/8" headset. It steers just fine (what else do you want a headset for?) and has a pretty little carbon fiber washer on top. It's also fairly light as is most high end stuff.

I'd go 1-1/8" as well. It seems to be the new standard and is slightly stiffer as it gives you a wider tube. (greater moment of inertia)
1" to 1 1/8" ?Live Steam
Sep 27, 2001 10:03 AM
Doesn't the head tube size dictate what size steerer tube you can use?
Sort of, not reallygrzy
Sep 27, 2001 11:08 AM
You can get a King unit that will fit in a standard frame for either 1" or 1-1/8". I'll admit that there isn't much clearence withthe 1-1/8", but it does work fine. You can also get a conversion kit for $35 to go from threaded to threadless (or vice versa). 10 year warranty is just icing on the cake.
I don't think so...DrD
Sep 28, 2001 3:49 AM
You sure about a headset which enables the use of a 1 1/8" fork in a 1" frame?

To say there is not much clearance is an understatement - from the Chris King website, they list the inner diameter of a 1" frame as 30.1mm, and the outer diameter of the crown race seat on a 1 1/8" fork as 30.1mm (the inner diameter of their crown race for a 1 1/8" headset is listed as 30.0mm)... 30.1 - 30.1 = 0...

Chris King does offer a Devolution headset to go from 1 1/4 down to 1 1/8 and one which goes from 1 1/8 down to 1", but not one which lets you go up. At least - if they do offer one, they don't seem to know about it...
I don't think so...grzy
Sep 28, 2001 9:03 AM
Huh, at the time I made the selection I was told by the foks at King that I could go either way. I agree with your math (I think), but I don't sure that it's the way it works. Given the numbers you used even a 1" fork (25.2 mm) would have less than 2.5 mm of clearence all around. I didn't measure mine at the time, but I distinctly remember seeimg quite a bit more than this and thinking that I did have room for a fork w/an OD of 1/8" larger since it would only require 1/16" on each side, but that it would still be tight. Of course I could be wrong.... I'll have to pull out the calipers and check some sizes. If they don't offer it then it's moot.
I don't think so...either!Rusty Coggs
Sep 28, 2001 5:22 PM
All the measuring aside,doesnt one have to use a 11/8 headset with a 11/8" steerer tube?? Cups for 1" HS are 30.2mm and cups for a 11/8" HS are 34mm. One could beat the 34mm cups into a smaler headtube for the 1" steerer with a 5 pound hammer but,that would most likely create other problems. My understanding has always been that if you have a HT that was made for a 1" steerer, then you are stuck with a 1" steerer. And, a 11/8" steerer tube won't fit through 1" cups.I stand corrected if wrong.
Well - you have to remember...DrD
Sep 28, 2001 7:36 PM
...that the base of the steerer tube is wider than the rest of the tube - in the case of a 1" steerer, it flares from 25.4mm to 26.5mm (the dimensions are from the CK website - from the last fork install I did, I think they are pretty close) - so in the headtube, you will have more clearance at the top than at the bottom. In a similar fashion, a 1 1/8" headset flares from 28.6mm to 30.1mm at the seat for the crown race - since the headtube on a standard 1" frame is 30.1mm, you wouldn't be able to get the base of the fork in.

So - you could make a headset which would work, you would just need to keep the flared portion of the steerer tube outside of the headtube - looking at the king headset, if you assume most forks have 1cm or so flared, they are pretty close to that right now, so maybe by adding 2 or 3mm on the bottom cup, they could get it done... so I suppose it would be possible - however, when I emailed them about it a while back, they said no such beast existed
My Data Point - Dr. D is right.grzy
Oct 1, 2001 8:52 AM
Measured the older 600 headset that came out of my frame and it is indeed 30.2 mm or 1.189" which only leaves 0.060" from a 1.125" steerer. Not enough to get headset cups and maintain some clearence. Dr. D. is correct.
Oct 2, 2001 8:27 PM
I'm going with the 11/8" steerer gets a 1 1/8" headset and fork, the same for a 1". Can't interchange. Go threadless for more choices on forks and stems, but more $$. If you're not threadless on your headset already, make sure you get the Chris King Nothreadset. Anythng else isn't worth the money you may save up front.

Anyway, on RAKE: measure the rake on your current fork. You can do this with a carpenter's T-square. Line the long end up with the head tube and down the fork so that the edge of the T-square runs right down the centerline of the head tube. Then line the other arm of the T-square up with the center of the front dropout. The (almost horizontal) distance from the extended centerline of the headtube to the center of the dropout is the rake. If you have a standard T-square, multiply the inches by 2.54 to make it centimeters. That's your rake. Don't change it on your new, upgrade fork. Either that or you can check the manufacturer's web site and see what rake they recommend.